GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

OK, first crank over the weekend on my new/rebuild shortblock. I had a metalic clanking noise. I thought it might have been the wastegate silinoid not being bloted in the to the exhaust manifold, so took care of that. Nope, next I thought maybe I had broken a shaft on one of the turbos but i'm running no boost. SO I look under the car and since the bellhousing peek cover was off I saw sparks inside!

Did I install the clutch wrong? Maybe it's not aligned? The car is in neutral, so it can't be the trans' or could it?

mgoddard1

Maybe the clutch disc is on backwards? Bad throwout bearing or throwout bearing not engaged to the pressure plate? Hard to say what could cause it but it sounds like you definitely have metal rubbing against metal which is never good. I predict you'll have to drop the transmission to fix the problem but you might be able to find the source of the problem by looking through the access port with a flashlight and a small mirror.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Well i'm hoping it's from not having pressure in the clutch line. I need to try and bleed it and tighten the lines. I got a k2rd SS line and the stupd thing has US nuts instead of metric. I don't think I tightened it well and you have to shave the corners to make it fit in the holder with the U clamp thing. So hopefully the throw out bearing is rattling around and will seat when I bleep the line. ...I hope!!!

InsaneGideon

Sparks? ...so you're the guy with the electric FD.

Think something may have dropped in there at some point?

kwiktsi

no pressure in the line wouldn't cause that- the clutch returns to "neutral" regardless of if the system is bled or not once the pedal is released. I can honestly say I have never had this happen (and that is odd- I have done it all I thought ). You will probably have to drop the trans to correct it unless it is just something stupid like a sheild hitting the flywheel or something. Good luck, keep us posted, you have my curiosity now.
Joe

ReZ311

iTrader: (4)

Did you replace the release bearing and lube it? T.O. bearing?

If you saw sparks, I'd take it apart regardless. Find out where that came from. There should be burn/grind marks if sparks were seen.

Now that I think of it... Your pressure plate has bolts n nuts to mount to the flywheel. Are you using aftermarket or the stock ones? Maybe they are too long and are hitting the backside of the motor.

Sparks is not good.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Most times, with metal to metal contact, you're not gonna get sparks. Not ruling it out, but I'd also make sure the main ground for the engine is all hooked up and that you aren't seeing electricity arcing!

That's a new one on me, regardless of what it is! Might have to pull the tranny - a pain, but you'll probably quickly get all the answers you need.

Dale

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

I don't don't remember engaging the ring. I will go under the car today and see if that's what I forgot.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

I forgot to flip the fork but have sinde done so. I haven't started it it but seeing all the paint scraped off the pressure plate and the fork touching the plate, most likely that was it.

Now I need to bleed the brake line. I've tried loosening the nut just a smidgen of a hair and pumped the pedal but that's futile. I tried air in the fluid reservoir with my compressor (and a rag cover) but that didn't help either.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

She starts without any noise now. I had the line bled several times and put NEO racing brake fuid but I can't get her in gear. I can start in neutral but if I try to start in gear (clutch in) she will try to jump.

mgoddard1

Have a friend push the clutch in while you look though the viewport. You should see the throwout bearing pull back the pressure plate about an inch or so. If you don't see this then you have more bleeding to do or there is another problem.

broken93

Sounds like electrical. Any metal to metal contact (i.e. steel on steel) that creates sparks is not gonna last long (the metal will wear away). If it's not wearing away, it should be stopping whatever's turning, so look at your starter and see if you're shorting something somewhere.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

When the car was on the lift the mechanic said the clutch was disingaged. You can see the fork in the correct rearward position and the snap ring is outward. He used 3/4 of a bottle of NEO fluid, so I can only assume he bleed enough. He used a vacuum suction pump thing.

The sparks were from the fork rubbing on the pressure plate with the car on and at idle. At least by the looks of the scraped off paint on the ACT pressure plat and little yellow specks of paint, that was my conclusion. Of course the snap ring was in and I don't know if that was damaged.

Right now the pedal has pressure allthough it seems stiffer then before or more then a hydrolic clutch should feel but I did change the line to braided SS and I did replace the fluid with NEO HD.

Are there any electrical plugs/connections for a hydrolic clutch? The pedal works and has pressure but I can not get the car in gear with the engine on. If I start in gear (Clutch in ovcourse) then she wants to jump like if I wasn't on the clutch at all.