3rd Gen Automatic Owners
11-25-04, 11:14 AM
#26
The Car made 343 RWHP @ 15psi. However, I have fatten it up to 11.0-10.9 using my innovative wideband so i`m convince that the RWHP # is lower than 343 since it running richer than before.
In reference to the drivability issues, the check engine light flashed once and then went off. I cleared the code by taking the postive battery terminal off and then touching the negitive battery post, An old trick I`ve learned when I use to work at a BMW dealership. All seems to be O.K. so far.
In reference to the drivability issues, the check engine light flashed once and then went off. I cleared the code by taking the postive battery terminal off and then touching the negitive battery post, An old trick I`ve learned when I use to work at a BMW dealership. All seems to be O.K. so far.
11-25-04, 11:28 AM
#28
Swapping Auto to Manual:
You `ll need clutch master and slave cylinder, clutch and brake pedal assembly, starter and manual tranny, light weight flywheel to balance with auto front counter weight. Also, set aside money for nuts and bolt, ground cables etc..cost will run about 16-1800.00 dollars if done at a reputable shop.
Good luck!
You `ll need clutch master and slave cylinder, clutch and brake pedal assembly, starter and manual tranny, light weight flywheel to balance with auto front counter weight. Also, set aside money for nuts and bolt, ground cables etc..cost will run about 16-1800.00 dollars if done at a reputable shop.
Good luck!
11-27-04, 12:54 AM
#29
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Originally Posted by andre sinclair
"Finally figured it out...It seems that the Auto. FDs` have what is call Torque Reduction Signal. This signal is received at the Engine Control Unit (ECU) from the Speed sensor and Pulse generator located on the auto tranny. The input signal going to the ECU must be disconnected in order not to kill the power from the engine (To me it `s like a traction control on my Lexus). I disconnected the signal going into the ECU (2H) For those who have a workshop manual you can look on page K-38 and see exactly which wire it is.
Car rev to 8000 rpm with ease. "
Im unclear on your above posting entry. First of all, how do you get by the 7000 rpm limit set by the ECU. Does disconnecting the 2H wire eliminate the rev limiter or do you have another device that allows you to overcome the rev limiter.
chuck
"Finally figured it out...It seems that the Auto. FDs` have what is call Torque Reduction Signal. This signal is received at the Engine Control Unit (ECU) from the Speed sensor and Pulse generator located on the auto tranny. The input signal going to the ECU must be disconnected in order not to kill the power from the engine (To me it `s like a traction control on my Lexus). I disconnected the signal going into the ECU (2H) For those who have a workshop manual you can look on page K-38 and see exactly which wire it is.
Car rev to 8000 rpm with ease. "
Im unclear on your above posting entry. First of all, how do you get by the 7000 rpm limit set by the ECU. Does disconnecting the 2H wire eliminate the rev limiter or do you have another device that allows you to overcome the rev limiter.
chuck
11-30-04, 06:42 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by andre sinclair
Finally figured it out...It seems that the Auto. FDs` have what is call Torque Reduction Signal. This signal is received at the Engine Control Unit (ECU) from the Speed sensor and Pulse generator located on the auto tranny. The input signal going to the ECU must be disconnected in order not to kill the power from the engine (To me it `s like a traction control on my Lexus). I disconnected the signal going into the ECU (2H) For those who have a workshop manual you can look on page K-38 and see exactly which wire it is.
Car rev to 8000 rpm with ease.
Car rev to 8000 rpm with ease.
12-26-04, 02:06 PM
#32
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Wow - lotsa good info on autos. I've already got a 94 PEP 5 speed and am looking to pick up an auto. That way I won't be spilling beer all over my crotch on the way to the AA meetings. 
Keep doing those auto-stick conversions; never know; I may need to find a tranny real cheap.
Keep doing those auto-stick conversions; never know; I may need to find a tranny real cheap.
12-28-04, 01:29 PM
#33
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Autos the way to go on turbo cars...atleast fast ones.
No boost lose between shifts... consistant shifts...etc..
But on slower cars sticks are faster....
Very few cars below 9s are sticks. You just can't shift that fast, I don't care if your John Force.
No boost lose between shifts... consistant shifts...etc..
But on slower cars sticks are faster....
Very few cars below 9s are sticks. You just can't shift that fast, I don't care if your John Force.
12-28-04, 04:53 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by ManGaZeRo
Can I install a 4.3 final gear right now and still be compatiable if I decided to do a manual swap in the future?
Short answer....yes.
But it would be expensive .......4.33's are like $500 and Im guessing it would cost you ~$350 to have those gears set in your existing differential.
Why not just by a used 4.11 diff and replace the Auto's 3.9??
12-29-04, 11:31 PM
#37
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Originally Posted by unixpilot
Short answer....yes.
But it would be expensive .......4.33's are like $500 and Im guessing it would cost you ~$350 to have those gears set in your existing differential.
Why not just by a used 4.11 diff and replace the Auto's 3.9??
But it would be expensive .......4.33's are like $500 and Im guessing it would cost you ~$350 to have those gears set in your existing differential.
Why not just by a used 4.11 diff and replace the Auto's 3.9??
chuck
