The Car made 343 RWHP @ 15psi. However, I have fatten it up to 11.0-10.9 using my innovative wideband so i`m convince that the RWHP # is lower than 343 since it running richer than before.

In reference to the drivability issues, the check engine light flashed once and then went off. I cleared the code by taking the postive battery terminal off and then touching the negitive battery post, An old trick I`ve learned when I use to work at a BMW dealership. All seems to be O.K. so far.

 

Search. You'll get some answers.

 

Swapping Auto to Manual:

You `ll need clutch master and slave cylinder, clutch and brake pedal assembly, starter and manual tranny, light weight flywheel to balance with auto front counter weight. Also, set aside money for nuts and bolt, ground cables etc..cost will run about 16-1800.00 dollars if done at a reputable shop.

Good luck!

 

Originally Posted by andre sinclair
"Finally figured it out...It seems that the Auto. FDs` have what is call Torque Reduction Signal. This signal is received at the Engine Control Unit (ECU) from the Speed sensor and Pulse generator located on the auto tranny. The input signal going to the ECU must be disconnected in order not to kill the power from the engine (To me it `s like a traction control on my Lexus). I disconnected the signal going into the ECU (2H) For those who have a workshop manual you can look on page K-38 and see exactly which wire it is.

Car rev to 8000 rpm with ease. "

Im unclear on your above posting entry. First of all, how do you get by the 7000 rpm limit set by the ECU. Does disconnecting the 2H wire eliminate the rev limiter or do you have another device that allows you to overcome the rev limiter.
chuck

 

The rev limiter is overridden by the PFs Purple computer (pink 9 software) that I have.

 

I have not disabled this wire and my car revs to 8000 with ease. check the manual further and you'll see that it's to reduce shift shock. Look under the trouble shooter where it deals with rough shifts or jerky shifts. I think to say that this is similar to traction control is incorrect and very misleading.

 

Wow - lotsa good info on autos. I've already got a 94 PEP 5 speed and am looking to pick up an auto. That way I won't be spilling beer all over my crotch on the way to the AA meetings.

Keep doing those auto-stick conversions; never know; I may need to find a tranny real cheap.

 

Autos the way to go on turbo cars...atleast fast ones.

No boost lose between shifts... consistant shifts...etc..

But on slower cars sticks are faster....

Very few cars below 9s are sticks. You just can't shift that fast, I don't care if your John Force.

 

Can I install a 4.3 final gear right now and still be compatiable if I decided to do a manual swap in the future?

 

Short answer....yes.


But it would be expensive .......4.33's are like $500 and Im guessing it would cost you ~$350 to have those gears set in your existing differential.

Why not just by a used 4.11 diff and replace the Auto's 3.9??

 

I heard the labor for it was like 150. I was guessing since I was going to upgrade might as well take one step higher.

 

I just finished pulling my 3.90 lsd and putting in a 4.10. Not that difficult a task. You have to change the lsd flange that connects to the drive shaft. I took the 4.10 diff in to a tranny shop and had them pull the flange, put in a new crush sleave, new seals, and set up the pinion preload tolerances - $75.00 and i provided the new flange, seals and crush sleave. I like the difference in acceleration and power at the shift points. Much better for around town driving. Total time to r & r - give it a full day not including trip to tranny shop. Got the parts from Ray at Malloy.
chuck

 

Anyone want to sell there old 3.90 fd rear end? I am looking for one.

Mike