3rd gear is great... but PLEASE HELP...
3rd gear is great... but PLEASE HELP...
I just picked up my 1993 R1 with lots of extras including a new engine and clutch. It has a total free flow exhaust and more. I seem to get a lot of pick up in 3rd gear but 1st and 2nd are not too great. I do hear a lot of air which seems to come from behind the glovebox? Is something undone or what? Please help...
Last edited by 4estRX7; Mar 30, 2003 at 10:47 PM.
"right behind the glovebox" is where the turbos are, and lots of hoses run from there out to under the Intake Manifold (large metal thing atop pthe engine with what looks like four chambers in it) Check over those hoses to see if any are loose if you want to see.
My first suggestion however would be to get a boost gauge if the car doesn't already have one, to see what kind of boost you're getting in first and second, I've heard of engines venting gboost in 1st and second because the turbos spool too quikcly (especially w/ a free flow exhaust), which could be your problem.
Do you have a boost gauge?
My first suggestion however would be to get a boost gauge if the car doesn't already have one, to see what kind of boost you're getting in first and second, I've heard of engines venting gboost in 1st and second because the turbos spool too quikcly (especially w/ a free flow exhaust), which could be your problem.
Do you have a boost gauge?
No, I do not have a boost gauge yet. Can you recommend one? I will check al the hoses. I was wondering about the free flow exhaust too. It does not have a cat or anythibng. It sounds great and runs good but not terribly great off the line? I dont seem to get a difference between turbo 1 and turbo 2? Please give me your suggestions...
first, take a look at the sticky and start reading, lots of useful info.
our cars have the pre-cat, the cat, and the muffler. most people will replace with pre-cat with a downpipe, and the muffler with some aftermarket catback exhaust. it becomes difficult to control boost with those mods. once you get a midpipe to replace the cat you'll probably have problems controlling boost. so does your car have some time of boost controller? also, you'll need to upgrade your ecu if it hasn't been done already. now the firtst thing people do is get a boost gauge, so i'd be scared that the previous owner did all this to his car without a boost gauge.
our cars have the pre-cat, the cat, and the muffler. most people will replace with pre-cat with a downpipe, and the muffler with some aftermarket catback exhaust. it becomes difficult to control boost with those mods. once you get a midpipe to replace the cat you'll probably have problems controlling boost. so does your car have some time of boost controller? also, you'll need to upgrade your ecu if it hasn't been done already. now the firtst thing people do is get a boost gauge, so i'd be scared that the previous owner did all this to his car without a boost gauge.
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not having any restriction in your exhaust and not having a boost controller= POP.
If you have no way to monitor your boost, then you have no idea a) if you're running at a safe level for your turbos, and 2) if you've got enough fuel being supplied to sustain your increased boost.
I hope you've got a reprogrammed ecu. and a boost controller. If you don't have either, I SERIOUSLY wouldn't drive the car until you have BOTH.
Not being a jerk, but rather trying to save you thousands of dollars.
-BN
If you have no way to monitor your boost, then you have no idea a) if you're running at a safe level for your turbos, and 2) if you've got enough fuel being supplied to sustain your increased boost.
I hope you've got a reprogrammed ecu. and a boost controller. If you don't have either, I SERIOUSLY wouldn't drive the car until you have BOTH.
Not being a jerk, but rather trying to save you thousands of dollars.
-BN
Oh--I was just in Omaha--actually researching it as a place to live. It looks as though the import scene is minimal. I saw some ricers on W Center that I talked to briefly. My interpretation: should you have a problem, YOU are going to be the one to fix it. Your mazda dealer probably knows less than you. Be safe--not sorry.
I have a cheap reprogrammed ECU if you don't have one and are short on money. In the $250 range. I'll need a list of your mods to tell you if it's close or not.
-BN
I have a cheap reprogrammed ECU if you don't have one and are short on money. In the $250 range. I'll need a list of your mods to tell you if it's close or not.
-BN
CyberBen3,
Thanks for the help. I may be interested in your redone ECU?
My car has the following mods: Chin skirt, Coilover suspension, Racing Beat exhaust and modified exhaust with no cat. converter, Greddy Pulleys, turbo timer, Alpine alarm, Alpine detachable face cd player, Alpine tweeters, Bazooka tube with amp, $600.00 Italian O-Z rims and I have two extra. I have original tires and aluminum factory rims. HKS air intakes.
What do you suggest?
Thanks for the help. I may be interested in your redone ECU?
My car has the following mods: Chin skirt, Coilover suspension, Racing Beat exhaust and modified exhaust with no cat. converter, Greddy Pulleys, turbo timer, Alpine alarm, Alpine detachable face cd player, Alpine tweeters, Bazooka tube with amp, $600.00 Italian O-Z rims and I have two extra. I have original tires and aluminum factory rims. HKS air intakes.
What do you suggest?
With an intake and exhaust you definitely need a reprogrammed ecu or a PowerFc. Also sounds like you have a boost leak which could be good right now, since if you were boosting full that new engine might be history. Likely that having those mods and no ECU is what killed the engine to begin with.
Last edited by mb7; Mar 31, 2003 at 01:01 PM.
mine had the EXACT same problem before I sold it. It's a boost leak, plain and simple. MY leak was at the coupler between the lower IC hose and the plastic hard pipe. I thought it was strange that the leak was that far forward, but the leaking sound appeared to be coming from directly behind the glovebox.
Originally posted by 4estRX7
CyberBen3,
Thanks for the help. I may be interested in your redone ECU?
My car has the following mods: Chin skirt, Coilover suspension, Racing Beat exhaust and modified exhaust with no cat. converter, Greddy Pulleys, turbo timer, Alpine alarm, Alpine detachable face cd player, Alpine tweeters, Bazooka tube with amp, $600.00 Italian O-Z rims and I have two extra. I have original tires and aluminum factory rims. HKS air intakes.
What do you suggest?
CyberBen3,
Thanks for the help. I may be interested in your redone ECU?
My car has the following mods: Chin skirt, Coilover suspension, Racing Beat exhaust and modified exhaust with no cat. converter, Greddy Pulleys, turbo timer, Alpine alarm, Alpine detachable face cd player, Alpine tweeters, Bazooka tube with amp, $600.00 Italian O-Z rims and I have two extra. I have original tires and aluminum factory rims. HKS air intakes.
What do you suggest?
Chin skirt, Coilover suspension, turbo timer, Alpine alarm, Alpine detachable face cd player, Alpine tweeters, Bazooka tube with amp, $600.00 Italian O-Z rims and I have two extra. I have original tires and aluminum factory rims.
Any experts out there??
Of the accessories you listed, the following make a difference when it comes to your boost:
Intake (allowing your engine to take in air in a less restrictive format)
RB catback/ Modified Exhaust with no cat (HUGE, HUGE, HUGE)--
Pulleys (not really directly affecting the breath of the engine, but it does run the rpm's up a bit faster.
The rest of the stuff is just pretty; and makes no performance difference (with the exception of the turbo timer, which, in all effect, could prolong the life of your engine and turbos)
Was the new engine street-ported? The ECU I have is tuned for your mods, minus a street port, so it may run a bit rich, which isn't a bad thing. I went power FC b/c I've been changing a lot of stuff around and it's generally more versatile.
Perhaps the previous owner put a different ECU on there and didn't tell you. Remove the Passenger side kick panel under the glove box. See if it has any kind of a sticker or writing on it--you never know, he might not have told you.
Leave the boost thing for now, and lay off the throttle, and you should be cool. Find out what computer you've got, and go to the top of the screen, click onthe RX7 store, and buy a cheap boost gauge. They're VERY easy to install, and I'd be happy to guide you through it.
When you figure out the computer thing, and what your boost is actually reading, we'll go from there.
-BN
Intake (allowing your engine to take in air in a less restrictive format)
RB catback/ Modified Exhaust with no cat (HUGE, HUGE, HUGE)--
Pulleys (not really directly affecting the breath of the engine, but it does run the rpm's up a bit faster.
The rest of the stuff is just pretty; and makes no performance difference (with the exception of the turbo timer, which, in all effect, could prolong the life of your engine and turbos)
Was the new engine street-ported? The ECU I have is tuned for your mods, minus a street port, so it may run a bit rich, which isn't a bad thing. I went power FC b/c I've been changing a lot of stuff around and it's generally more versatile.
Perhaps the previous owner put a different ECU on there and didn't tell you. Remove the Passenger side kick panel under the glove box. See if it has any kind of a sticker or writing on it--you never know, he might not have told you.
Leave the boost thing for now, and lay off the throttle, and you should be cool. Find out what computer you've got, and go to the top of the screen, click onthe RX7 store, and buy a cheap boost gauge. They're VERY easy to install, and I'd be happy to guide you through it.
When you figure out the computer thing, and what your boost is actually reading, we'll go from there.
-BN
Last edited by Benjamin; Mar 31, 2003 at 01:18 PM.
Cyberben, Can I contact you by E-mail for assistance? Can you e-mail me at mforrest@cassling.com
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