3k rpm idle
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#11
Eh
iTrader: (56)
Did you cut the 4 wires when installing the PFC? That is likely your idle issue.
By car not starting no matter what you do, what did you do exactly to try to get it to start? Deflood procedure, install new plugs, verify you have fuel pressure, verify injectors are firing, verify you have spark, etc? We need details to help.
By car not starting no matter what you do, what did you do exactly to try to get it to start? Deflood procedure, install new plugs, verify you have fuel pressure, verify injectors are firing, verify you have spark, etc? We need details to help.
#12
Did you cut the 4 wires when installing the PFC? That is likely your idle issue.
By car not starting no matter what you do, what did you do exactly to try to get it to start? Deflood procedure, install new plugs, verify you have fuel pressure, verify injectors are firing, verify you have spark, etc? We need details to help.
By car not starting no matter what you do, what did you do exactly to try to get it to start? Deflood procedure, install new plugs, verify you have fuel pressure, verify injectors are firing, verify you have spark, etc? We need details to help.
the car at least starts now and idles smooth got a new tps the old one had a broken mount. still idles at 3k though gunna reverse the plugs and adjust the tps. but could it just be because the plugs are reversed?
#18
Recovering Miataholic
x mazda rx7 x,
Since your idle is exactly at 3K rpm, I would suspect the Accelerated Warmup System (AWS) valve. It is mounted on the lower surface of the upper intake manifold (the "extension" manifold) and is controlled by the ECU. If it is stuck in the open position, you would get a 3K rpm idle. If you disconnect its electrical connector, and the idle speed drops, that is the problem. This valve is the one fed through an intake hose tapped off the rear of the intake elbow, so you could also pull off that hose and cap it, blocking the AWS air supply. Again, if that lowers your idle, the AWS valve is the problem. If not, the problem is elsewhere.
Since your idle is exactly at 3K rpm, I would suspect the Accelerated Warmup System (AWS) valve. It is mounted on the lower surface of the upper intake manifold (the "extension" manifold) and is controlled by the ECU. If it is stuck in the open position, you would get a 3K rpm idle. If you disconnect its electrical connector, and the idle speed drops, that is the problem. This valve is the one fed through an intake hose tapped off the rear of the intake elbow, so you could also pull off that hose and cap it, blocking the AWS air supply. Again, if that lowers your idle, the AWS valve is the problem. If not, the problem is elsewhere.
#19
CURVE OF CONSTANT WIDTH
iTrader: (4)
x mazda rx7 x,
Since your idle is exactly at 3K rpm, I would suspect the Accelerated Warmup System (AWS) valve. It is mounted on the lower surface of the upper intake manifold (the "extension" manifold) and is controlled by the ECU. If it is stuck in the open position, you would get a 3K rpm idle. If you disconnect its electrical connector, and the idle speed drops, that is the problem. This valve is the one fed through an intake hose tapped off the rear of the intake elbow, so you could also pull off that hose and cap it, blocking the AWS air supply. Again, if that lowers your idle, the AWS valve is the problem. If not, the problem is elsewhere.
Since your idle is exactly at 3K rpm, I would suspect the Accelerated Warmup System (AWS) valve. It is mounted on the lower surface of the upper intake manifold (the "extension" manifold) and is controlled by the ECU. If it is stuck in the open position, you would get a 3K rpm idle. If you disconnect its electrical connector, and the idle speed drops, that is the problem. This valve is the one fed through an intake hose tapped off the rear of the intake elbow, so you could also pull off that hose and cap it, blocking the AWS air supply. Again, if that lowers your idle, the AWS valve is the problem. If not, the problem is elsewhere.
When you first installed the PFC did you let it go through its idle learn process properly? If you did you could be having problems with your ISC, try unplugging it and see what happens.
#20
x mazda rx7 x,
Since your idle is exactly at 3K rpm, I would suspect the Accelerated Warmup System (AWS) valve. It is mounted on the lower surface of the upper intake manifold (the "extension" manifold) and is controlled by the ECU. If it is stuck in the open position, you would get a 3K rpm idle. If you disconnect its electrical connector, and the idle speed drops, that is the problem. This valve is the one fed through an intake hose tapped off the rear of the intake elbow, so you could also pull off that hose and cap it, blocking the AWS air supply. Again, if that lowers your idle, the AWS valve is the problem. If not, the problem is elsewhere.
Since your idle is exactly at 3K rpm, I would suspect the Accelerated Warmup System (AWS) valve. It is mounted on the lower surface of the upper intake manifold (the "extension" manifold) and is controlled by the ECU. If it is stuck in the open position, you would get a 3K rpm idle. If you disconnect its electrical connector, and the idle speed drops, that is the problem. This valve is the one fed through an intake hose tapped off the rear of the intake elbow, so you could also pull off that hose and cap it, blocking the AWS air supply. Again, if that lowers your idle, the AWS valve is the problem. If not, the problem is elsewhere.
#21
Recovering Miataholic
the idle is 2.5k actually and i cut the wire for the AWS. so i dont think its that
#23
apeiron
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Boulder, CO
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I doubt this is your problem but when I stripped down my old block and transferred all my parts to a new engine - the primary injectors were not seated properly and caused a severe vac leak resulting in my idle sitting at 3k rpms regardless of what I did.
When you installed the FMIC, did you touch anything on the block?
When you installed the FMIC, did you touch anything on the block?
#24
Recovering Miataholic
i tried blocking the aws hose and it lowered it by about 200 rpms but still at the 2k area
You could even leave the AWS valve off and block the manifold input port, and then remove the AWS valve's input air hose and cap the elbow's port permanently, since you aren't using the AWS.
Also, are you sure the fast idle cam is disengaging from the throttle butterfly's mechanism? You can reach under the cam and push the linkage away from you, which should manually release it if it is hanging up on the cam.
Are you sure the primary and secondary throttle butterflies are closed?