i posted a a thread yesterday about my fmic making the car die randomly. found out it was the map sensor plugged in the vacuum line. and now the car idles at 3k rpm whats wrong with it?
ive been trying to program my power fc

 

check your throttle linkage as well as readjusting your TPS. You should still be able to control via your PFC unless one of the two above are the cause.

 

wheres the tps? the throttle linkage is fine though

 

still need help!!!!!

 

The TPS sensor is that little black sensor on the firewall side of the throttle body...

 

oh thanks

 

Make sure the TPS is plugged into the wiring harness. If your map sensor was unplugged, chances are your TPS is as well.

 

any advice on adjusting tps?

 

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/fixed-my-idle-problems-backfiring-bucking-more-170731/

 

well i came to start my rx7 today and it will not start no matter what i do

 

Did you cut the 4 wires when installing the PFC? That is likely your idle issue.

By car not starting no matter what you do, what did you do exactly to try to get it to start? Deflood procedure, install new plugs, verify you have fuel pressure, verify injectors are firing, verify you have spark, etc? We need details to help.

 

i cut the right 4 wires and de-flooded the motor took out the old plugs and it looks like they went to hell and back. installed new plugs and out of stupdity installed leading on top trailing on bottom.
the car at least starts now and idles smooth got a new tps the old one had a broken mount. still idles at 3k though gunna reverse the plugs and adjust the tps. but could it just be because the plugs are reversed?

 

any1?

 

I remember my thermo pellet that links up to the throttle body was stuck causing higher idle.

 

what does that look like and how do i fix it?

 

any1?

 

where is it what does it look like and how do i fix it?

 

x mazda rx7 x,

Since your idle is exactly at 3K rpm, I would suspect the Accelerated Warmup System (AWS) valve. It is mounted on the lower surface of the upper intake manifold (the "extension" manifold) and is controlled by the ECU. If it is stuck in the open position, you would get a 3K rpm idle. If you disconnect its electrical connector, and the idle speed drops, that is the problem. This valve is the one fed through an intake hose tapped off the rear of the intake elbow, so you could also pull off that hose and cap it, blocking the AWS air supply. Again, if that lowers your idle, the AWS valve is the problem. If not, the problem is elsewhere.

 

If he truly did cut the 4 wires with the PFC install the AWS should not be a problem (one the wires is the AWS).
When you first installed the PFC did you let it go through its idle learn process properly? If you did you could be having problems with your ISC, try unplugging it and see what happens.

 

the idle is 2.5k actually and i cut the wire for the AWS. so i dont think its that

 

OK, but even if there is no electrical signal to the AWS valve, it could still be stuck partly open due to crud under the movable valve. IMHO it's still worth it to pull off its intake tube at the rear of the intake elbow and cap or plug it to see if there is any effect on idle speed.

 

i tried blocking the aws hose and it lowered it by about 200 rpms but still at the 2k area

 

I doubt this is your problem but when I stripped down my old block and transferred all my parts to a new engine - the primary injectors were not seated properly and caused a severe vac leak resulting in my idle sitting at 3k rpms regardless of what I did.

When you installed the FMIC, did you touch anything on the block?

 

So part of the problem is a slightly leaking AWS valve. Maybe another part is a slightly leaking IAC valve. You might want to pull the UIM, remove the AWS and IAC valves and clean them both with something like WD-40 to make sure they close fully.

You could even leave the AWS valve off and block the manifold input port, and then remove the AWS valve's input air hose and cap the elbow's port permanently, since you aren't using the AWS.

Also, are you sure the fast idle cam is disengaging from the throttle butterfly's mechanism? You can reach under the cam and push the linkage away from you, which should manually release it if it is hanging up on the cam.

Are you sure the primary and secondary throttle butterflies are closed?

 

im sure