Adding another tip/trick.... we use a wire wheel to scratch the sealing surface on the bottom of the motor so it's not glass smooth. The idea is that it gives more grip surface for the rtv, kind of like how you do with paint.

The tightening procedure we do is snug 2 opposite corners then alternate from one side to the other. Like how you would do with a pressure plate. Full send in 2 passes.

Maybe next pan we do, we'll make a video for reference. Our way is not THEE way but its the way we've found consistent, repeated able, long term success with. Others clearly have different methods and techniques that work for them. Do what makes you happy

 

I think it's about 10% luck at this point. I also want to mention that you can swap out the oil pan without removing the subframe. I managed to do it when I had my turbos and manifold removed. There was plenty of clearance to slide the pan in on the turbo side.

 

Link to what I did: Posts # 9 and # 11. I did this in 2005, and although it is now seeping slightly, it's, IMO, still OK.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-arch...emoval-305386/

 

This seems important to call out

 

A moment of silence for anyone in the future reading this post, who meticulously follows every method shared here and still ends up with a leak. May their patience and sanity rest in peace.

 

Had a eureka moment. What if there was a gasket made from a high-quality material like Viton, with metal inserts or eyelets around the engine bolt holes? The metal inserts would act like spacers, taking the load off the gasket so it doesn’t twist, bend, or compress over time under load. This way, the gasket can just do its job and seal properly.

The picture below is an example from a Corvette. It’s the closest I could find to the idea. I think the real issue is that the engine mounts are sitting below the oil pan, supporting the engine through it. This puts extra load on the gasket maker (or gasket) itself, and over time, that load causes it to fail. It doesn’t help that the oil level sits above the oil pan too. The brace helps, but it’s not enough to fully solve the problem.

 

I had a similar idea, metal gasket with oring. this one is from bmw

 

Those types of seals are usually only practical for a cast (not stamped) pan. If the 2 surfaces are not completely flat or are not sufficiently rigid, these types of seals may very well have issues, especially if the joint is stressed.

 

Your post led me to this., which I noticed he posted it above. If this is the silver bullet, I'll be happy to buy it if it gets rid of the leak.

 

I've always thought there was some way to make an easy "toss it on there" gasket that would seal no problem. I think it's JUST enough engineering that no one has tackled it.

On aftermarket oil pans, most of them don't have a provision for the stock oil level sensor. As someone who has had an FC oil cooler line blow out and the oil buzzer going off saved the engine (and I have had friends in the same boat) IMHO that sensor is a MUST. I have also seen some that hang down below the subframe which isn't great - road debris or a low driveway and that hits you are in big trouble, especially if you have no oil level sensor . Cast aluminum doesn't bend, it breaks.

I think a lot of the problem stems from the motor mounts bolting through the oil pan. It's just not a great design on Mazda's part.

Dale

 

If I were to invent something like this, I'd make it out of a soft material that contained anerobic hardening stuff like the Loctite low-strength thread lockers. It would be soft enough to almost fully compress at the joints' high spots, and where the engine mounts bolt through, but when it cured it would be stiff enough to support shear stress, and have just enough adhesion to not come loose. Probably totally wishful thinking, or there would already be something like that around, but I think something like that would be what is needed for the OE stamped oil pan.

Except for the "toss-it-on" requirement, that's what the best recommended RTV's attempt to do.

 

I was thinking the same thing about the oil pan. I’d also like to keep the low level sensor. In the 2nd Gen section, I was reading through the prototype thread, and he mentioned:

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-pans-1167773/

So, I believe he could do the same for the FD’s oil pan. He also mentioned that the oil pan doesn’t sit below the OEM subframe for the FC. I’m sure it will be the same for the FD, but I’ll confirm before purchasing

 

This seems like most recent oil pan sealing thread, so I'll add to this.
I did an oil pan sealing a year ago, and now I see it leaks, very slowly, but it does, from somewhere near passenger side motor mount bolt (at the corner).

Sealant indeed goes inside mounting holes and pushes the bolts loose, as I saw this firsthand when removing motor mounts to do an oil pan sealing a year ago.
But if we torque the mount bolts immediately, that'd mean not following sealant instructions to wait an hour or so before torquing everything to the spec.

I'm going to redo my oil pan job, and I have this idea of using studs (e.g. this M12x1.25 stud) and nuts instead of bolts, this way sealant pushing bolts lose won't be a problem, and thus we don't have to torque motor mount bolts immediately.

Is this a good idea at all? I need a sanity check if I'm not missing something important and that studs are OK

P.S. I did the job while engine was in the car (removed subframe). But it was my first time lol. It seems this second time I'd be more prepared

 

i use mopar engine RTV now, mostly because it works and i have about 50 tubes of it in my tool box. damn parts guys hand it out with every job.

our service advisor has an FD and i did his pan with it, never had an issue. it also comes in caulk gun size tubes for easy application, though it's not nearly as bad as hondabond in any form.

 

AT THIS POINT, so far so good on my car.

- New oil pan
- Toyota FIPG (Form In Place Gasket)
- Old school Chips Motorsports oil pan brace

I also think that putting the pan on, getting all the 10mm bolts on and torqued, let it cure, THEN install the engine mounts is a good move. If you look in the shop manual at Mazda's procedure for putting the engine back together you basically build the short block, put the pan on, put all the other stuff on (intake manifold, turbos, wiring, rats nest) THEN put on the engine mounts. I think installing them when the RTV is still wet may not be a good idea.

Also trick from a buddy this weekend - he got a new oil pan that rocked a bit when setting it flange side down on a flat surface. He cleaned the bottom of the engine up and got it ready then installed the pan with NO RTV and tightened up everything. Let it sit overnight then removed and the pan then was totally flat.

Dale

 

Dale, thanks for the update. Did you have a single line of bead and circled it around both engine mount and M6 bolt holes at the rear?
Will be sealing it next week or so (waiting for the new pan to arrive).

 

New blocks come with the bolts installed to hold the sealant and pan flat to cure.

The trick is, good flat oil pan. SUPER clean everything. Use the RIGHT SEALANT. I'd recommend Three Bond 1215.
you just apply it as per the manual, do up the 10mm then install engine mounts torque those up also.

Let the engine sit for a few days (oil level sensor out, oil cap off let it breath and seal up GOOD.

There really is no special tricks apart from a good oil pan surface, cleaning and using the right sealer.

 

Anyone have any thoughts on sealant and appropriate technique vs the upcoming Turblown cast oil pan?
https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-pr.../#post12633205

 

I just don’t think an unprotected cast pan in a low ground clearance car is ever a good idea. Especially on the street

 

O ring flange should negate the need for any kind of sealant, assuming they have positioned and designed it correctly. Now, is that reality? who knows.

 

An observation regarding the above - steel does not creep in this type of situation. It can yield and flatten out, but that would occur as soon as it was tightened down. So, IMO, waiting overnight to remove it was not necessary.

 

Is that Three Bond 1215 that Ohmar recommends?

 

I'm also in Europe searching for a sealant to get in local shops. ThreeBond 1215 would be an option, if it's the right one. What about Curil T2? It's stated as fuel and oil resistant: https://www.elring.de/CELUM/10008/10...594x420_EN.pdf

 

My old oil pan leaked. I read all this and told my buddy i was buying a new pan. He said no and that he could fix mine and it won't leak. I said ok, but I will be upset if it leaks. He took the pan out, straightened out with a hammer and installed it using Honda bond. I've driven the car alot and he has made me a believer, no leaks. It takes time and precision but the old oil pan is not garbage. Anyone throwing away a oil pan can send it to me. I will gladly take it.

 

Give it a year and report back. My pan didn't leak either the first several months..