ehos

The saga continues...

I removed the wastegate line and I'm getting really good boost up top (4500+) of around 10-11PSI.

However, still no 10PSI before 3000. Should I replace the wastegate line and remove the pre-control line and see what happens?

Before this I switched both of the solenoid (WG/Precontrol) electrical components and it didn't do much.

So I don't have a boost leak

rynberg

You disconnected the wastegate line????

If you are only hitting 10 psi with the wastegate closed, then you have a boost leak.

shipdriver

iTrader: (1)

I may be off-base here, but how does removing part of a system make it function the way it was designed? What was the behavior when you had the whole system together?

Regards,
Rob

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

And reconnect that line before your boost really starts working again. A disconnected wastegate causes loss of boost control (aka fuel cut or a blown motor)

Dave

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I recommend that you reconnect everything per the standard sequential diagram. Make sure you have boost pills, and make sure there are no boost leaks in the intake, and that the lines don't have any leaks.

As for the fact that 'switching' your wg and pc didn't have any effect, that suggests to me that you either didn't switch them properly, or they aren't working for another reason.

Dave

ehos

I removed them (WG/PC lines) to test the system. Removing the WG only gave me 10-11 PSI so maybe there is a boost leak. I still have to find a better way to check for boost leaks than the standard 'LOOK.'

I removed the pre-control (rehooked WG) and nothing happened. Still 4PSI.

When the car is back together it boosts 4-7.5-7.5 And it barely hits 4 until around 4000 RPM's. Under 3K it's about 1-2 PSI.

The pills are there. I've LOOKED for boost leaks 10 times, removed and tightened everything.

The 10PSI drive motivated me to keep banging my head against this problem until it's solved. There's still about 100 things I can do so no big deal.

I just am frustrated that of all the millions of posts on this forum, the only way to check for boost leaks is the dreaded, LOOK. Isn't there a kit or something to pressurize the system?

crazyrx7

Are you still in sequential mode or non-sequential?

R.K.

ehos

Non seq.

Mods are apexi intake, downpipe, upgraded IC.

I have a mp and a computer but I don't want to add them until I get my boost fixed first.

SidewaysR1

Your still running the stock cat and exhaust. If so then with a non sequential setup that sounds pretty close. Do you have the poormans non sequantial or the full non sequential?

SidewaysR1

And as far as finding boost leaks, they are very tricky if your still running the stock intercooler hoses. I had a big split in one of mine that i never saw until I pulled the hose and accidentally put my thumb through the split pulling it off.

ehos

Sorry sorry!!

Sequential!!! I have a newborn in my lap, so I'm sleep deprived

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Congratulations on the baby (I'm assuming it's yours)

People have pressurized the system, but of course the trick is you have to seal it at both ends (the throttle elbow and the y-pipe) and supply a lot of airflow. You can also disconnect the crossover pipe at the y-pipe, start the car, and *carefully* slide a solid flat plate over the opening. The vacuum will hold it there. If there is a boost leak, the engine might keep running, but you'll get the sucking sound to help find it.

I believe the most practical way to inspect is to remove the couplers, take them into good light, and inspect every square inch thoroughly both inside and out. Turn them inside-out, so internal cracks get stretched open. Remove the metal cover on the rubber elbow leading to the intercooler, and inspect under all the o-rings that are fit over the corrugated rubber molding. Look for places where the polyester cording is peeking through - small surface cracks are normal, but if it shows the cording it's probably not.

Dave