Without AC or PS, a supercharger would fit with no problems. I was going to go this route but I don't think I'd even use all the power staying NA, plus there will be some added weight in the front

 

RedTT, your car was the one that I was thinking about with all of the room in front. I thought that'd you'd removed the belt driven accessories in the front and had TONS of space in the front.

When I first looked into the V8 swap, I wanted to do a turbocharged LT1, but arrived at the same conclusion that you did that with 400+ HP NA I probably wouldn't use all of it.

If you look at the engine bay of Brian's setup , there's no room for a supercharger or turbo without getting creative:

http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/novemberRoad.htm

If I go ahead with the V8 swap I'll most likely pursue the LS1 setup for a number of reasons, weight and available conversion parts being the two most obvious reasons.

I just got my car running with the 13B again, so I'm set for a little bit. Just a little trouble with the alternator

 

LS1 Camaros have that much (or little?) room under the hood, maybe even a little tighter, and there are multiple turbo kits out. All it takes is a lil time, money, and thinking (easier said than done, eh?)

 

A bolt on kit for other production cars using a LS1 won't work on our RX7s for obvious reasons, but with the relocation of the air filter and some custom tubing, there is room for a supercharger under the stock RX7 hood. We've developed many challenging systems more complex than the LS1 RX7 install would be.

These pictures are from a recently installed intercooled ATI setup on a shop car.

 

Yikes, look at the ground clearance on that thing. No speed bumps for that bad boy.

 

The LT1 definately fits better than the LS1, as it can be moved back farther by 1" to 1 1/2".I have the LS1 in the FD now with an ATI procharger on it. It isnt running yet(I started Dec 6th) but the engine and charger fit. It is going to be the radiator and intercooler that will be a tight fit.

 

The turbo kit would be extremely difficult. At that point even I would keep the 13B. Not saying it cant be done.

 

cdk4219, I sent you PM.

 

Well, after driving a 13B FD and seeing a few more pop here in my area I am convinced that my abusive, neglective nature would spell quick doom to any rotory. However this swap option alows me to still hold tightly to my RX-7 desires.

Dropping an LS1/LS6 into the amazing FD chasis. A better Vette for less money.
So I have been on a mission to determine the aprox. cost of "MY" FD/LS1 creation.
Here is a breakdown of forseen cost with many speed/performance tweeks.

$5,000 - 93-95 RX-7 with a blown motor
$5,000 - LS1/T-56 from a Camaro/Firebird includes wiring harness no ECU
$3,000 - Paint job, color change. Lots of prep work done my me with paint applied with no motor/trans, most interior etc removed
$1,200 - Fuel System (15gal. Fuel Cell, Inline Pump, Filter, Regulator, Fitings, AN lines)
$1,000 - Cooling System (Radiator, Shroud, Fan, Thermostat, Braided Lines, Fittings, AN Lines, Overflow Tank)
$300 - Induction System (Air Filters, Piping, silicon lines)
$2,000 - Computer (Standalone (E11), harness, sensors)
$1,400 - Instalation Kit (Hinson Kit with AL driveshaft and bumpsteer fix)
$1,200 - Exhaust System (headers, X-pipe, mufflers, custom stainless piping, tips)
$500 - Guages (Autometer - speedo, tach, water temp, fuel level, oil pressure, fuel pressure)
$500 - Electrical System (battery, battery box, power/ground 0guage, distrubution/fuse/terminals)

Total is about $21,100
Add $1,00 for engine hoist and stand plus odd tools I probably don't have yet and will need.

Grand Total $22,000-$23000

Some of my estimates are low and some are high but looking over it all I think that in the end it all balances out. Now if I can get a car or engine/trans or paint job cheaper it begins to come down. Maybe under $20,000 total could happen.
With all of this the car mechanically from the drivetrain is almost full race ready. Upgrade the rearend, work on suspension, body cladding, seating, harness, roll cage, then jump in and make more power.
Man I am so amped at the thought of a final $40,000 investment that whoops on mild Vipers and hangs with all but mild+ race cars on the track/strip.

Anyone see anything I missed or just plain got totally wrong?

SF

 

Speedious - Your estimates are pretty close. The first car that we built will have a fresh coat of paint, est 380rwhp LS1, and an upgraded suspension with Koni "Yellows" and RB F&R sway bars for less than $20,000 total investment.

If you were to spend $40,000 on this build, you would have one truly awesome car!

 

Speedious-Freakious

This estimate is probably on the low end. Blown 3rd gen cars go for obscene amounts considering they don't run. If you can find one for $5K that's great, but I'd expect that you'll pay more in the $6K-$7K range.

I've been keeping my eyes on Ebay for the last couple months and you can probably pick up an LS1/T56 combo with all the belt driven accessories and the computer for around $4.5K before shipping and crating costs (figure about $500-$1000 depending on how far away). Finding one locally would of course be cheaper. So I'd agree with your estimate here.

This is where your estimates are probably high. There's no real need to go with a new fuel cell. I haven't seen a conversion yet that didn't use the stock tank. I think Brian used a 2001 stock Trans Am fuel pump if I'm not mistaken (should be about $175 new). I'd doubt you'd spemd $1000 on lines and fittings, etc.

As for your other estimates, I'd think taht your fuel management estimate is on the low end. Most of the stock gauges you should be able to retain, so that should eliminate some of your cost. You might also want to look into some kind of traction control system if you're planning on going high powered. I think that Jimlab and some others have been looking at the racelogic system, which seems to be a solid product from what I read.

Anyhow, if you decide to do the conversion, good luck. I'm in full savings mode to scrape together enough dough to do the conversion myself, with a projected start time around July

 

I think I should clarify something that is not THAT clear in my other post.

These estimates are for the car * I * would assemble. I also, tend to think more on the lines of Jimlab.

So, yes you could probably shave atleast $4,000 off of my estimates, if you wanted/needed.

Brian - that is pretty much the idea.

Wingsfan - I was told by a local tuner that fed up FD owners have been know to sell blow cars with issues for $3,000-$6,000. Problem is that they are snapped up that day or the next but it is possible. Also, being in SoCal a local engine/trans find on the cheap is also a real possibility.

SF

 

Speedy - Check this link:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=134540

 

Short video clip of us testing the new torque arm. I thought you guys might want something to download.

 

How'd the arm hold up? Please keep us posted with all the videos you can make.

 

Lost time -
The new setup is working great. The change was done in order to have the flexibility for an LT1 or LS1 setup.

I hope to post some more videos shortly.

 

We did a little track testing this past weekend at Alabama International Dragway. I was pretty happy with the results the car provided. I made about 6 passes launching harder and harder every time. The rear end handled the abuse without a problem, but unfortunately the track wasn't prepped for good racing. 1.7s 60' times were average and 1.6s were rare but did come on ocassion.

The best time of the day was an 11.8 @ 119mph, but we didn't have the camera running at the time. Go figure.

Here is an 11.9 @ 119mph pass.

The car had a full interior with spare and Bose setup.
Aprox weight: 2,850 (1/2 tank of gas)
Aprox HP: 350RWHP

 

just curious guys , is the ls1 same engine as on the new vette's ?

 

yup, and an ls6 is the Z06 engine which will bolt in also.

 

the oil pan for a Z06 will not let you just bolt it in to a FD, then again, you can always take it off, cut it and reweld it together and ti might fit

 

Not trying to start any flame wars or arguments, but with the time that went into his project, I can assure it was done properly and any LS1 or LS6 will bolt DIRECTLY into an FD!

 

you guys are gonna make competition between fd owners one who has a rotary and the other a v8. It sucks to feel this way toward someone with the same car but it's not the same car any more. I admit that I hate this idea and I have a bad attitude to anyone that is doing it because it's the easy way out and it just admits that you are stupid and can't figure out how to have a relaible fd. If you are doing this you don't even deserve to have a rx-7 because the entire point is to showcase the rotary motor and you are making the rx-7 look like **** by replacing the motor with a chevy that every piece of **** car in the US has. I do understand that you want reliability and a lot of power at the same time but the ls1 also has tons of problems and you embarrass the rx-7 by swapping in this motor. Its like having a new 911 turbo and swapping in a cobra motor because you are sick of how unreliable the turbo motor is. Don't get the car in the first place then. Go get a camaro and put a rx-7 body kit on it or something.

This should be illegal what morons. Hey at least my car will continue to go up in value keep wrecking these fds and doing engine conversions

 

too stupid to figure out how to build a reliable FD? looks like theres a VERY reliable FD running 11.8 and a video there to prove it. not a shabby job...looks nice too

 

okay "margin of safety"

"margin of safety"
"margin of safety"

okay I think I got it now. No wait I forgot.
"margin of safety" there we go.

-at 15 psi I'd say most people would have 340rwhp up to 380 rwhp with a correctly tuned car but yes....
-I think a "bad tank of gas" is rare and you would notice your car running like **** if you got 87 octane unless you are...unless you are...unless you are you!
-Also yes if you are a moron and you run 15 psi on pump gas instead of race fuel then you will deservedly see some detonation.
-ziptie the boost hose on, superglue it on if you have had so many problems with it and you know it comes off
-It is your job to make sure your car is running right before you go off and mod it and......

maybe the problem is that you ARE wrenching on your own car and you keep experimenting over and over again and things are just not working out. Well in that case get a pineapple rebuild with a 5 year warranty and take your car to a reputable tuner for every modification that you do and then if something happens then you are not accountable. It is either your tuners fault or the responsibility of the engine builder. So for 5 years one motor running high horsepower seems reasonable to me. How long do you think a ls1 will last with all the bolt ons and nitrous or a supercharger?


"Lastly; some of us have had these rotary powered cars for years. And for years we've put up with tempermental bullshit non-stop. Oil leaks, miss-fires, weird idle, turbo control problems, fouled spart plugs, failed emissions tests, smoke, etc etc etc. And... we're fed up and looking for a way to both keep our RX-7s which we love and enjoy them without constant wrenching. The logical choice would be to replace the part that is causing the problems (the rotary engine) with something that has a better more proven track record the GM smallblock."

-Ahh do you want a tissue? Can't afford to maintain this true sports car? I'd like to mention that there are no emissions in Florida right now.

you showed that rotary!
nice work bud

 

Snook:

My God, you are an idiot. Didn't you say you were going to sell your FD because you couldn't afford another engine rebuild after your engine blew up 4 months after you put it in? How is that for reliability?

You have absolutely no respect, and don't even present anything remotely resembling a logical arguement.

Good luck on your rebuild. Hopefully your tuner stays within the 'margine of safety' this time around.