MuRCieLaGo

iTrader: (14)

Hi there,

I just had a fire due to Fuel Pulsation Damper. I had to change wiring harness. (heavy damage on it near the injectors, no more rubber on them).

Now, I have 0 spark on 0 wire. Yes, Power FC is plugged. Anti-emission are removed.

Single turbo setup.

A lot of connectors stay unplugged because of all the stock junk I removed.

Do you guys have an idea? I tried opening PFC to see if it burnt, without success...

Right now I'm going to plug my computer in the Datalogit.

MuRCieLaGo

iTrader: (14)

Anybody?

AzEKnightz

iTrader: (24)

check your power to the coils. If you have no power to the coil, you wont have power to the wires.

-AzEKnightz

MuRCieLaGo

iTrader: (14)

Only the 3 wires from the alt. harness gives power to the coils?

MuRCieLaGo

iTrader: (14)

Hmmm... I will try to change coils... or maybe it's the coil's ground wire?

MuRCieLaGo

iTrader: (14)

Even with my PC plugged to the Datalogit I can't see anything wrong.

AzEKnightz

iTrader: (24)

I would not suggest changing your coils without testing or knowing that you are indeed getting power to it.

I would start by checking the harness to the coil, and to the igniter. Make sure those are connected and back probe them with key on to see if there are any battery voltage.

If there isnt, back track to the PFC to see if there's power from the PFC.

-AzEKnightz

AzEKnightz

iTrader: (24)

by the way, have you checked the EGI main relay for power?

MuRCieLaGo

iTrader: (14)

After the fire that's the only fuse I had to change. Yes there's power to the PFC (I wouldn't get any reading with the Datalogit).

MuRCieLaGo

iTrader: (14)

But that's a great idea to see if there's power FROM the PFC. Saturday is a great day to work on the car.

Thanks for your help!

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Have you checked the resistance of the coils? I assume the plug wires were changed already?

MuRCieLaGo

iTrader: (14)

I haven't checked resistance of the coils. I have another set of coils that I know they are working, I'll change them. Coils had some VERY light damage during fire but I know that plug wires stayed 100 % OK.

First thing to do is to check if I get power to the coils like AzEKnightz said! I had to change the wiring harness, I would not be surprised I forgot to plug an essential wire (got a single turbo setup so there's a lot of unplugged wires that's kinda confusing).

MuRCieLaGo

iTrader: (14)

Ok I have checked the power of the 3 wires that leads to the coils, everything is OK.

I changed coil.

I changed the wires.

There is still no spark.

Is there supposed to be power from the CAS wiring connector when the key is ON? Could it be the problem?

AzEKnightz

iTrader: (24)

Murcielago, when you said everything is "OK" is that battery voltage that you are seeing? What colors are the 3 wires. Please be more specific so I can pinpoint and help you diagnose this problem.

Also, have you check power to your ignitor? If you're ignitor aint giving commend for sparks, you wont have sparks neither.

-AzEKnightz

MuRCieLaGo

iTrader: (14)

Sorry for my english, I meant the 3 "connectors" that lead to each of the coil (one blue, one white and one black I think).

I didn't check power to the ignitor but I never unplugged it. I'll test it this sunday.

By everything is OK, I mean that I simply verified the connectors with a test light. Should I use the multimeter... ?

Thanks!

AzEKnightz

iTrader: (24)

yes, multimeter will give you exact reading of what you should have. And sometimes all it takes is 1v lower than spec and the complete system would not work.

-AzEKnightz

MuRCieLaGo

iTrader: (14)

12,1 volt in three wires (black, white, blue).

I roughly checked wiring to the ignitor, I need to search how to test it!

MuRCieLaGo

iTrader: (14)

BTW I meant connectors, again!

AzEKnightz

iTrader: (24)

So now, you have power to the ignition coil. So here's a old mechanic's way to test the wires. Remove 1 wire at a time, put a long screw driver in the spark plug side of the wire and put it away from any ground in the chassis and have somebody crank the car (with rubber gloves on) while you watch to see if ALL wires are dead or only a couple.

Check that ignitor out to make sure it is giving out signals for the the coils to collaspe and create spark. Let me find you the info on how to test it.

-AzEKnightz

AzEKnightz

iTrader: (24)

Trailing Side



Insert positive voltmeter lead into brown (front rotor trailing) or gray (rear rotor trailing) lead of SST adapter harness and verify meter shows battery voltage.
Press tester switch 2 to ON and verify that voltmeter needle moves.
Leading Side



Insert positive voltmeter lead into black lead of SST adapter harness and verify meter shows battery voltage.
Press tester switch 2 to ON and verify that voltmeter needle moves.
Replace igniter if it fails any of these tests.

Hmmm, per Alldata, you have to use a special tool. But I bet you that you can back-probe all the wires at the igniter connector to verify if there are any voltage being supplied.

AzEKnightz

iTrader: (24)

Here's a diagram of how the ignition system work. I believe the 2 CAS is what supply the timing to the ECU. Then the Igniter will look at the TIMING and signal a command for spark. Therefore the coils would ignite and sending the spark down from the wires to the spark plug.

Right now, we have powers to the ignition coils, but 0 SPARK on ALL wires.

Therefore, lets check the igniter for power supply and ground.

And check the 2 CAS when you crank see what voltage you have.

That way we can conclude if the problem is within the ECU itself, the CAS sensors, or the igniter since you are 100% sure that the coils are good.

-AzEKnightz

AzEKnightz

iTrader: (24)

right now, as I read this diagram. I am leaning towards the CAS or the connection to the CAS being the culprit. Reasoning: Because you've checked that there is power supply to the ignition coils. Which means you have power from the PFC > Igniter > Coil but NOTHING is coming out from the wires (but you've replaced new wires). Therefore I would check on your 2 CAS sensor and the connections to that to make sure it is sending out the signal to the ECU to determine the timing otherwise you will have no spark but power from PFC to the coil.

-AzEKnightz

p.s sorry for the multi-post. I am at my shop dealing with customer's cars while helping you on this =).

AzEKnightz

iTrader: (24)

Resistance test the CAS sensors:

Remove sensor and measure resistance across terminals:
0.95 - 1.23K ohms @ 68°F (20°C)

I havent done a CAS backprobe while cranking, therefore I wouldnt know what voltage it would supply the ECU with. Let me dig around to see if I can find any information on that ok?

-AzeKNightz

MuRCieLaGo

iTrader: (14)

OK you really really are big help... I'm pretty sure CAS isn't working properly, I had to fix it on the harness... maybe I did it the wrong way...

I've checked the wires that goes to the connector while key is "ON" and there's no power at all, even before where I fixed the wires. Here's a picture!

Thank you so much!

AzEKnightz

iTrader: (24)

Alright sounds good. By looking at the diagram I've provided, it looks like both "A" wire on the sensor should be getting a signal voltage from the ECU and "B" is the actual reading that will be sent back to the ECU for timing. If you arent getting power to "A", you are most likely disconnected somewhere at the harness. Figure that out and let's see what we've got.

I am glad I could of help. Let me know if you need more information, I will try my best =).

-AzEKnightz