*Attention Engine Builders* Questions and Options
11-15-12, 10:32 AM
#1
*Attention Engine Builders* Questions and Options
Even though this is really for my benefit, I would hope any information posted with in this thread could help others in the future. I need an engine. My Fd has sat without an engine for two years now and I need to get her back on the road. What I'm looking to do is find a shop that will build and install and engine for me. I really wish I had the time to do it myself. I'm giving myself a $5000 budget. I still have left over parts from the old engine before it was parted out and sold, mostly long block parts like the alternator, OMP, intake manifolds, etc. I would like to have the engine mildly streetported and recommended aftermarket apex seals installed. Thats it. I have more plans for her later down the road but I really just want to get her running and reliable. This "commission," will probably need to be started around the 1st of February. If there are any shops or fellow rotorheads who know of shops that can work within these parameters then let me know, thanks for the help and your time.
Bin
P.S - As a reminder I don't have anything from my orginial shortblock.
Bin
P.S - As a reminder I don't have anything from my orginial shortblock.
11-15-12, 11:10 AM
#2
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
My suggestion would be to contract Ray Crowe, of Malloy Mazda, at 703-490-8170. He can supply you with a reman engine (that will most likely be built with all new parts) for relatively cheap. If you cannot find a cheap core than you will, unfortunately, get hit with a $1,000 core fee.
From there you can either keep the stock block as it is and enjoy it for a while (which will be your best bet, given your financial goals) or you can have it shipped to a shop for a rebuild and porting. I would go with either Speed1 or IRP, ad both are relatively local to you and have a good reputation for building solid motors. DO NOT send your motor to PFS, trust me on that one...
From there you can either keep the stock block as it is and enjoy it for a while (which will be your best bet, given your financial goals) or you can have it shipped to a shop for a rebuild and porting. I would go with either Speed1 or IRP, ad both are relatively local to you and have a good reputation for building solid motors. DO NOT send your motor to PFS, trust me on that one...
11-15-12, 12:49 PM
#6
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
If you have absolutely nothing than it might get expensive to build, I'm assuming that you don't have the solenoids and rats nest either?.... You might want to just see about going single on the build, since you'll be sourcing all new (to you) stuff anyway.
11-15-12, 01:07 PM
#7
there was a single kit for sale in the fs section,
i think it was a t04 s or e. Came with manifold, dp, w/g , bov?, intercooler and piping for like 900 bucks. Killer deal.
There was also a lim, uim, tb there for around 200 all together.
But lets be honest.. if all you have is the shortblock which needs to be rebuilt, This car will need more than $5000 to be running again. Plain and simple.
i think it was a t04 s or e. Came with manifold, dp, w/g , bov?, intercooler and piping for like 900 bucks. Killer deal.
There was also a lim, uim, tb there for around 200 all together.
But lets be honest.. if all you have is the shortblock which needs to be rebuilt, This car will need more than $5000 to be running again. Plain and simple.
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11-15-12, 01:13 PM
#8
Another option is to contact Japan2LA here on the forum and pick up a jpsec engine. I believe he sells them for under $2000 with a garanteed 100psi compression. After you get the motor, turbos, an other stuff from the jspec engine you can either run it and see how it does or send it out for rebuild but atleast in theory you have all the parts.
11-15-12, 01:19 PM
#9
My suggestion would be to contract Ray Crowe, of Malloy Mazda, at 703-490-8170. He can supply you with a reman engine (that will most likely be built with all new parts) for relatively cheap. If you cannot find a cheap core than you will, unfortunately, get hit with a $1,000 core fee.
From there you can either keep the stock block as it is and enjoy it for a while (which will be your best bet, given your financial goals) or you can have it shipped to a shop for a rebuild and porting. I would go with either Speed1 or IRP, ad both are relatively local to you and have a good reputation for building solid motors. DO NOT send your motor to PFS, trust me on that one...
From there you can either keep the stock block as it is and enjoy it for a while (which will be your best bet, given your financial goals) or you can have it shipped to a shop for a rebuild and porting. I would go with either Speed1 or IRP, ad both are relatively local to you and have a good reputation for building solid motors. DO NOT send your motor to PFS, trust me on that one...
Basically I have everything but the shortblock and the turbos.
11-15-12, 01:29 PM
#10
you're going to be eating up that $5k pretty quick with no short block or turbos. finding good twins has become a nightmare..
you may want to keep an eye out for a short block yourself while waiting(sometimes you can come across local part outs with rebuilt engines for fair prices), there is a few shops in the NE that can do the job.
you may want to keep an eye out for a short block yourself while waiting(sometimes you can come across local part outs with rebuilt engines for fair prices), there is a few shops in the NE that can do the job.
11-15-12, 01:58 PM
#11
you're going to be eating up that $5k pretty quick with no short block or turbos. finding good twins has become a nightmare..
you may want to keep an eye out for a short block yourself while waiting(sometimes you can come across local part outs with rebuilt engines for fair prices), there is a few shops in the NE that can do the job.
you may want to keep an eye out for a short block yourself while waiting(sometimes you can come across local part outs with rebuilt engines for fair prices), there is a few shops in the NE that can do the job.
I do really appreicate the input and insight.
Last edited by korea_senpai; 11-15-12 at 02:11 PM.
11-15-12, 02:03 PM
#12
17 second FD
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Another option is to contact Japan2LA here on the forum and pick up a jpsec engine. I believe he sells them for under $2000 with a garanteed 100psi compression. After you get the motor, turbos, an other stuff from the jspec engine you can either run it and see how it does or send it out for rebuild but atleast in theory you have all the parts.
I feel like I see quite a few relatively cheap short blocks and single turbo kits floating around from time to time. I would wait for a ported one to pop up and buy that(from a reputable shop/seller).
11-15-12, 02:10 PM
#13
Wastegate John
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https://www.rx7club.com/bad-fugly-me...45800-1016800/
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https://www.rx7club.com/bad-fugly-me...ngine-1012950/
11-15-12, 02:39 PM
#16
Another option is to contact Japan2LA here on the forum and pick up a jpsec engine. I believe he sells them for under $2000 with a garanteed 100psi compression. After you get the motor, turbos, an other stuff from the jspec engine you can either run it and see how it does or send it out for rebuild but atleast in theory you have all the parts.
11-15-12, 02:52 PM
#17
Who knows, I didn't know about the negative things going on with the...certain....member...as I haven't been on here in a while but I'm glad you guys are looking out for folks.
Mahjik - I'm not neccessarily trying to be cheap, I'm just trying to not let the money pit aka FD become and actual money pit......again.
I'm trying to have a short block that I can safely build on (add stuffs) later on. Thats why I'm looking to have a bit of porting and better seals.
Mahjik - I'm not neccessarily trying to be cheap, I'm just trying to not let the money pit aka FD become and actual money pit......again.
I'm trying to have a short block that I can safely build on (add stuffs) later on. Thats why I'm looking to have a bit of porting and better seals.
Last edited by korea_senpai; 11-15-12 at 02:59 PM.
11-15-12, 03:06 PM
#18
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
Also, a buddy of mine (rxtacy) has an (otherwise) good condition pair of stock twins that have a little shaft play. I know they are good condition because they came out of my car when i got BNRs in 2008 and they haven't gone back into a car since...
He doesn't have them listed for sale but I'm willing to bet he'd part with them if you pm'd him and asked...
You could ideally get a (basically brand new) reman for $2800 (plus $1000 core charge), find a cheap *** core to turn in, then get a set of BNRs for like $2100 (excluding core). Take that and add azknights upgraded solenoids and you will have a rock solid (reliable) setup for pretty damned close to your target of $5k.
Just a thought....
Last edited by fendamonky; 11-15-12 at 03:19 PM.
11-15-12, 04:02 PM
#19
5K isn't much.. truthfully you could blow that on a long block that may be missing small little parts etc. If i were you I would be patient and look for someone who has a full running set up with decent to low miles on it and go that route. You can find them if your patient.
11-15-12, 04:10 PM
#20
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Keep monitoring the parts for sale section, eventually there will be someone selling a shortblock. Rotary Resurrection is a place that might be able to do it with your $5,000 budget counting shipping. No turbos though. I believe their base rebuild price is $1,300, porting $400 and $300 for gaskets. They have great reviews.
11-15-12, 04:24 PM
#21
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
A used JDM engine is a good place to start if you don't have many parts. They pop up all the time on Ebay, it's typically around $1800-2000 for a longblock with tranny, turbos, wiring harness, etc.
It's pot luck if you get a good one, but of the 3 or so I've bought over the years, I got a TON of good, low-mileage parts for a very reasonable price. The motor might be blown, but many times you still end up with many key engine hard parts (rotors, rotor housings, irons, etc.) that you'll need.
And, you'll get a low-mileage transmission as well.
Just be prepared for what you're getting, know that you're buying a pile of parts, not necessarily a good engine. Some companies show compression tests, which is good. I would only buy an engine if they had pictures of the actual engine I was buying, the engine looked good without tons of rust and whatnot, and was complete.
Also, '96+ engines are nice that they're newer, but the wiring harness is not usable and some of the parts won't be usable. You can tell them by them having the aluminum Y-pipe instead of the plastic Y-pipe. This isn't a deal breaker, it just lowers the number of parts that could be used.
Dale
It's pot luck if you get a good one, but of the 3 or so I've bought over the years, I got a TON of good, low-mileage parts for a very reasonable price. The motor might be blown, but many times you still end up with many key engine hard parts (rotors, rotor housings, irons, etc.) that you'll need.
And, you'll get a low-mileage transmission as well.
Just be prepared for what you're getting, know that you're buying a pile of parts, not necessarily a good engine. Some companies show compression tests, which is good. I would only buy an engine if they had pictures of the actual engine I was buying, the engine looked good without tons of rust and whatnot, and was complete.
Also, '96+ engines are nice that they're newer, but the wiring harness is not usable and some of the parts won't be usable. You can tell them by them having the aluminum Y-pipe instead of the plastic Y-pipe. This isn't a deal breaker, it just lowers the number of parts that could be used.
Dale
11-15-12, 04:35 PM
#22
A used JDM engine is a good place to start if you don't have many parts. They pop up all the time on Ebay, it's typically around $1800-2000 for a longblock with tranny, turbos, wiring harness, etc.
It's pot luck if you get a good one, but of the 3 or so I've bought over the years, I got a TON of good, low-mileage parts for a very reasonable price. The motor might be blown, but many times you still end up with many key engine hard parts (rotors, rotor housings, irons, etc.) that you'll need.
And, you'll get a low-mileage transmission as well.
Just be prepared for what you're getting, know that you're buying a pile of parts, not necessarily a good engine. Some companies show compression tests, which is good. I would only buy an engine if they had pictures of the actual engine I was buying, the engine looked good without tons of rust and whatnot, and was complete.
Also, '96+ engines are nice that they're newer, but the wiring harness is not usable and some of the parts won't be usable. You can tell them by them having the aluminum Y-pipe instead of the plastic Y-pipe. This isn't a deal breaker, it just lowers the number of parts that could be used.
Dale
It's pot luck if you get a good one, but of the 3 or so I've bought over the years, I got a TON of good, low-mileage parts for a very reasonable price. The motor might be blown, but many times you still end up with many key engine hard parts (rotors, rotor housings, irons, etc.) that you'll need.
And, you'll get a low-mileage transmission as well.
Just be prepared for what you're getting, know that you're buying a pile of parts, not necessarily a good engine. Some companies show compression tests, which is good. I would only buy an engine if they had pictures of the actual engine I was buying, the engine looked good without tons of rust and whatnot, and was complete.
Also, '96+ engines are nice that they're newer, but the wiring harness is not usable and some of the parts won't be usable. You can tell them by them having the aluminum Y-pipe instead of the plastic Y-pipe. This isn't a deal breaker, it just lowers the number of parts that could be used.
Dale
PMers - A further reminder is that I'm just planning and looking at options right now, where as I really appreciate the offers for engines and parts I'm not quite ready to buy just yet and won't be ready until probably around February next year. Again, just looking at options and feedback. Thanks again.
11-15-12, 04:54 PM
#25
If you ship the car up to us in NY your project can be done for under budget. PM me if you want specific pricing. You won't get roped in with low pricing; everything will remain flat rate unless you need replacement hard parts (ie rotor, rotor housing).