Check your torque converter. Also, make sure the tranny's not stuck in lock up mode.(OD)

 

Everybody agree???

 

did you reset the computer and check the coil's and plug wires? Also you should check the power wire to the coils and make sure they are getting a full 12-13.8 Volts at all the connectors.. it's the one fat wire in the coil harness. the 3 smaller diamiter ones are the coil trigger wires... If it's not one of these then it's probably a bad coil, ignitor, or the crank angle sensor.. one thing about the crank angle sensor is it's a magnet, take a look the them and make sure there isn't any metal shavings or anything else stuck on the sensor this can mess up the trigger signal. Anouther thing you may want to do is check the harness that plugs in to the computer and make sure non of the pin's that attach to the wires has pulled out of the connector as I have seen this happen as well... Last but not least, is the car belowing blue or black smoke out the exaust that smells like raw fuel? If it's not then your problem could be a fuel issue and not an ignition problem...

 

I don't want your $100 by the way.. you can just send me a set of 4 BUR9EQP spark plugs (perferably new in the box).. ******* are like $22 ea over here and only about $7 each in the states..

 

No smoke at all, could it be bad primary injectors?
Seems like its hitting fuel cut, like the turbos engaging too early.
Thanks for the pointers, I'll try them asap! Rob.

 

Ah ha, now were getting somwhere.. check the voltage and the ground on the fuel pump harness, there is a fuel pump relay that changes the voltage to the fuel pump from low to high voltage.. This relay could be bad and causing the fuel pump to no switch over to 12Volts.. also pull the plugs and look at them, if there is a color diffrence between the front and rear rotor plugs there is a good chance one of the primary injectors are bad.. also look and see if they forgot to plug the harness in to the secondary injectors.. actually check all the connectors on the injectors and make sure they are seated and connected properly..

 

What is your name? I love your ideas! I will try this tommorow(it,s midnight here).
Thank you very,very much! Rob.
PS: I am pretty sure we hooked all connectors up well. However one of the 2ndary inj. was bad and the connector was full of fuel. We dried them. Could the gasoline damage the connectors?...

 

lol.. my names Chris or you can call me SGT Siems..

I doubt that gas would damage the connector, but it may have left residue or somthing on the connector terminals if it sat there for a long time... try to see if you can find somthing small to get in there and clean up the connector terminals and make sure they are dry.. If they do have some oil/gas/crap in them you can get a can of brake cleaner and spray them to get out any oil or other crap. Then just give them a few min. to dry you should be good.

Since it's not coughing raw fuel out of the exaust it pretty much eliminates the MAP sensor, Catilizer and the whole ignition system.. any of them would cause it to smoke and smell like fuel from incomplete combustion..

So basicly it almost has to be in the fuel system so here are two other things it could be.. Your Fuel pressure regulator may be junk and not keeping the fuel pressure up where it should be, you can take a vicescrips and lock it on the return line to test this. Don't pinch it all the way closed though, pinch it just enough to almost seal the line off and force the Fuel pressure to go up then test drive the car and see if it runs better.. One other thing it could be is that the fuel lines are reversed.. If you swapped the fuel in line and the return line it will do exactly what you are descibing as well...

let us know what you find out...

 

I dont see how looking at the front and rear plugs is going to tell anything about pri injectors. They both get fuel from pri injectors. It might tell you if one set (one pri and one sec) of inj is bad but it wont tell you anything about pri only.

The pump relay and especially the fuel line order is a good idea.

I'm under the impression that your compression test you had done was probably done wrong cause the numbers dont look right and there are too many numbers. I think there is just a problem with the engine installation. Like Dragon said, check the fuel line and make sure they are correct. There are 3 lines that connect right under the elbow, that is most likely where it would be messed up. Like I had said on the fist page, check the connections at the crank angle sensor to make sure they are not back wards, there are 2 of them.

Check for tightness and gaskets on the upper and lower intake manifolds. It could be that they forgot one. Your vacume is low so it sounds like your leaking somewhere.

I would imagine you going to find a few things wrong and not just one thing causing all this....eventhough anything is possible!!!! lol

STEPHEN

 

I dont see how looking at the front and rear plugs is going to tell anything about pri injectors. They both get fuel from pri injectors. It might tell you if one set (one pri and one sec) of inj is bad but it wont tell you anything about pri only.

The pump relay and especially the fuel line order is a good idea.

I'm under the impression that your compression test you had done was probably done wrong cause the numbers dont look right and there are too many numbers. I think there is just a problem with the engine installation. Like Dragon said, check the fuel line and make sure they are correct. There are 3 lines that connect right under the elbow, that is most likely where it would be messed up. Like I had said on the fist page, check the connections at the crank angle sensor to make sure they are not back wards, there are 2 of them.

Check for tightness and gaskets on the upper and lower intake manifolds. It could be that they forgot one. Your vacume is low so it sounds like your leaking somewhere.

I would imagine you going to find a few things wrong and not just one thing causing all this....eventhough anything is possible!!!! lol

STEPHEN

 

at anything under 40% on the injectors the secondary injectors don't fire, there for only the primary injectors feed the engine fuel.. if one of those primarys isn't working correctly is will cause that rotor to run lean and this will cause the color of the plug in that rotor housing to be a lighter color than the plugs in the other rotor housing... if he's not getting over 10mph he's probably not even getting close to the required 40% injector switch over point. There for checking the plugs will tell you if you have a bad primary injector..

if the crank angle sensor wires/connectors are swaped the engine won't even try to start and the fuel pump won't come on so it's definitly not the crank angle sensor plugs swapped, but just in case you want to check them the white plug should be on the top sensor and grey plug goes on the lower mounted one..

 

Any luck yet... give us a update..

 

lol.. I'm assuming you fixed it and your having so much fun driving it that you havn't had time to check the forum OR your woman's got you locked up.. Whipish!! Whipish!! :P

Anyway if you've figured it out let us know what it was so we can inform the next guy with the same problem...

Vrooom Vrooomm or Whipish!! Whipish!!??

 

AND we can get him his $100.00...

 

I'm no FD expert but my cousin had a 3000gt that had similar problems. He thought be bent a valve cause he beats the **** out of it. But he took it in and it was a fried ECU (i guess a common problem on those cars, yeah i know mitsubishi). Probably unlikely and i dont know how to tell for sure if thats it but its worth a shot

 

LOL.. He doesn't have to give me anything... I'd just like to know what it was causing the problem...

 

Sorry I havn't replied back in a while. I was out of town on a 7 day golf tour. Anyhow monday we are going to resume working on it. Still runs the same at this time!
Thanks for the help,I will apply the last few ideas and let u know the results! Rob.

 

Whoa! He breaths.. lol.. l can't believe you...! leaving your 7 for 7 days when it was in pain to go play golf?!?!.. How dare you..! That's like leaving your dying mom alone in the hospital to go fishing...

 

Hey I hear ya man...but I actually needed a break. Sorry I had no forum contact but i'm ready to go again!
Hey fishin important too...LOL!!! Mama's jus sick,she'll get better. She ain't dead yet. Surgery begins Monday!
Thanks, Rob.

 

94 rx7 a/t idles good, but will not accelerate past 15 mph. Compression test done by a dealer averaged 4-5 per cyl. I know this is low compression, but shouldn't the car still go more than 15 mph? Tried my friends power apexi fc and we got it past 2000 rpms for the first time. He said he adjusted the fuel down to dump less fuel in and it revved up better. He doesn't know much about the power fc and said he thinks the engine is shot. But the car does not smoke or idle bad. So w
hat do you fellow rotor heads think??
Thanks Rob.
p.s. Another mechanic said the compression sounds good to him and that some times madza dealers make mistakes about compression test. He feels like it is probably a bad ecu, but a/t ecus are hard to come by

 

Hey , could I have a bad oil metering pump? I'm the guy who offered 100 to the one who could figure out why my car would not accelerate! Another mechanic looked at it yesterday and said he thought the error code came up as a bad oil met. pump. Would that be a proper malfunction, and make the car limp and low compression? And would you happen to have this part used?

Thanks, Rob.

PS:My computer is at Sony getting repaired and will be back in a couple of days. So if I don't get back right away it's because I have to use someone elses computer!-

 

Yes a BAD OMP will cause the ECU to go into LIMP mode and even if you reset the ECU it won't help untill you fix or bypass the OMP with the proper resistor (check the fsm) because the ECU Checks the OMP at Key on and will go right back into LIMP mode if the OMP is bad. If you do bypass the OMP be sure to PREMIX OIL in the GAS before starting it.

 

Did this car sit for a long time before you got it? From the symptoms you describe, a tank of bad gas will do just about the same thing.. it'll fire up and idle, but if you ask anything more from the engine, it'll just cough, pop and die.. I went through this with a v-dub engine I built and had sitting in a project car for a while.. couldn't figure out the problem for the life of me. After plugs, wires, rebuilding carbs, distributor swap.. it was the gas.

Just a thought.

 

Hey my computer came back, I.m up and running again. All I have to do now is get the car runnin and I'll be in business! Rob

 

have you done the paper clip trick to find out the error code?