$100.00 if you can figure this out...
08-22-02, 01:20 PM
#52
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Hey everyone I forgot to mention that the tachometer acts very erratic. We don't believe it's bad. Acts like it's related to the stumbling problems!
Thanks, Rob.
Thanks, Rob.
08-22-02, 01:22 PM
#53
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Brian would you mind e-mailing me your phone# at rx7r3@hotmail.com. Thanks, Rob.
08-22-02, 02:28 PM
#55
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I still feel like its the main cat if your planting your foot down and there just isnt enough power to go over 10mph.
Also, this might be a wierd question but I have a reason.....what intake do you have??? Is it still stock or do you have one with a heat shield of some kind, kinda like the Pettit?
STEPHEN
Also, this might be a wierd question but I have a reason.....what intake do you have??? Is it still stock or do you have one with a heat shield of some kind, kinda like the Pettit?
STEPHEN
08-22-02, 02:36 PM
#57
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Originally posted by Dragon
Not on the coil harness I have sitting right beside me that I pulled out of the closet to get the connector colors off of...
They may have changed colors in diffrent years though, just make sure the one on the end is connected to the rear coil, the one in the middle to the middle coil and the first one closest to the harness connector to the first coil
Not on the coil harness I have sitting right beside me that I pulled out of the closet to get the connector colors off of...
They may have changed colors in diffrent years though, just make sure the one on the end is connected to the rear coil, the one in the middle to the middle coil and the first one closest to the harness connector to the first coil
This may be stupid, but have you changed your spark plugs?
08-22-02, 02:51 PM
#60
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Yes that is bad. You have 9:1 compression rotors, since its a new motor does it have warrenty? Was the previous owner full of ****??? Where was the motor installed at???
STEPHEN
STEPHEN
08-22-02, 02:52 PM
#61
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Also, the funny thing about it is it doesnt look like you have a blow seal due to detonation because they are all pretty close to eachother.....this tells me the motor was either built wrong or the guy was feeding you full of **** cause that motor prob has 100K miles on it.
OR
Maybe they did the test wrong.
STEPHEN
OR
Maybe they did the test wrong.
STEPHEN
08-22-02, 02:55 PM
#62
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Maybe when he said he just put in a new motor was he really meant was the motor was new to this car but came from a 150K mile T2 sitting in a junk yard.....I hope not though
08-22-02, 03:18 PM
#67
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i had a very sim. prob. there is a vacuum line in the rear of the engine bay on the driver's side....i think?? it may be on the passanger's side, anyway it connects to a little black box (sensor?) located on the firewall......map sensor???
08-22-02, 03:19 PM
#68
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
Was the car ported? this can drop the compression check some.. I still say it's ignition... That'll make her pop like a virgin and it'll cause the turbo's to spool faster... Ahh have you tried to just reset the computer.. disconnect the ground cable and push in the brake pedal for a few seconds then reconnect the cable and start the car.. I've seen the computers in serveral FD's freak out before if Fuel injectors or other things in the harness have beeen disconected and reconected while the computer had power...
08-22-02, 04:17 PM
#70
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Originally posted by rx7r3
Could the compression #s be off due to the fact the car cannot generate high rpm's?
Could the compression #s be off due to the fact the car cannot generate high rpm's?
Well you dont actually have to generate high rpms because they dont actually crank the car for the test. You pull the plugs and efi fuse and turn the key so that the motor spins but doesnt crank.
To answer your question, lets say during the test you had a weak battery and the motor was tuning real slow like it was dieing that can cause low readings.
3mm seals and large ports will not cause readings like this. They can cause lower readings but it would be more like 8.7 instead of 9.0.
If they did the test right that motor has a lot of miles, when the readings are low on all seals like that its because they are totally worn out and have worn out weak springs OR the test was done wrong.
STEPHEN
08-22-02, 04:23 PM
#71
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Wait a minute.....WHY DO YOU HAVE 7 READINGS??????
It should only be 3 per rotor which is 6......you have 7 listed there. The other thing thats wierd is look at the pattern...... 4.8 5.1 5.2 then a 5.0 in the middle then 5.2 5.1 4.8 which is the first rotor but in backwards order. Thats really wierd!!!!! I dont think I've even seen anything like that, it would be VERY coincedental.
If thats really what they gave you for readings, I think I'd be going back for them to retest for free!!!!
STEPHEN
It should only be 3 per rotor which is 6......you have 7 listed there. The other thing thats wierd is look at the pattern...... 4.8 5.1 5.2 then a 5.0 in the middle then 5.2 5.1 4.8 which is the first rotor but in backwards order. Thats really wierd!!!!! I dont think I've even seen anything like that, it would be VERY coincedental.
If thats really what they gave you for readings, I think I'd be going back for them to retest for free!!!!
STEPHEN
08-22-02, 05:50 PM
#72
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
if it's a new engine they will be low because it hasn't broken in yet.. also if they did the compression check on the trailing plug's instead of the leading it will be lower
08-22-02, 07:54 PM
#73
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I tell you the engine sounds tight. I believe they did the test wrong also. So does my mechanic friend who has rebuilt dozens of 2nd gens. We believe its something electrical, Brian I just got in, I'll be calling you soon.
Thanks, Rob.
Thanks, Rob.
08-22-02, 08:02 PM
#74
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After putting my friends fc motor back in we had the same problem. After changing everything that we could think of, he just took it to a tuning shop here in japan. $300 dollars later they just changed the crank angle sensor.