What to do with this? - LIM port
#1
What to do with this? - LIM port
Hi all,
Wondering where you run this line or handle this port. Originally I blocked it off with a rubber nipple but it goes flying every time in boost.
Wanted to know if I could run a vac line from this nipple (circled in red in pic below) to a port in the upper intake, maybe next to where the brake booster hose is connected? Or what would you recommend? It’s single turbo, all rats nest and solenoids removed.
Thanks. Appreciate any advice as always.
Cheers
Wondering where you run this line or handle this port. Originally I blocked it off with a rubber nipple but it goes flying every time in boost.
Wanted to know if I could run a vac line from this nipple (circled in red in pic below) to a port in the upper intake, maybe next to where the brake booster hose is connected? Or what would you recommend? It’s single turbo, all rats nest and solenoids removed.
Thanks. Appreciate any advice as always.
Cheers
Last edited by Trinityevo13; 06-11-22 at 10:16 PM.
#2
half ass 2 or whole ass 1
iTrader: (114)
Maybe I'm crazy but I'm pretty sure that's the port for the primary injector diffusers. So you're gonna want that. According to the diagram it receives positive pressure from the y pipe which means its just a pass through. Of course that wouldn't make sense if you get into boost and it pops off 😅😅
Idk dude just use a better vacuum cap. Looks like its a 6mm nipple so get a 4mm silicone cap and put a zip tie on it. Alternatively you can run a vacuum like from it to somewhere else yes. It would just do nothing.
Idk dude just use a better vacuum cap. Looks like its a 6mm nipple so get a 4mm silicone cap and put a zip tie on it. Alternatively you can run a vacuum like from it to somewhere else yes. It would just do nothing.
#3
Maybe I'm crazy but I'm pretty sure that's the port for the primary injector diffusers. So you're gonna want that. According to the diagram it receives positive pressure from the y pipe which means its just a pass through. Of course that wouldn't make sense if you get into boost and it pops off 😅😅
Idk dude just use a better vacuum cap. Looks like its a 6mm nipple so get a 4mm silicone cap and put a zip tie on it. Alternatively you can run a vacuum like from it to somewhere else yes. It would just do nothing.
Idk dude just use a better vacuum cap. Looks like its a 6mm nipple so get a 4mm silicone cap and put a zip tie on it. Alternatively you can run a vacuum like from it to somewhere else yes. It would just do nothing.
#5
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Maybe I'm crazy but I'm pretty sure that's the port for the primary injector diffusers. So you're gonna want that. According to the diagram it receives positive pressure from the y pipe which means its just a pass through. Of course that wouldn't make sense if you get into boost and it pops off 😅😅
Idk dude just use a better vacuum cap. Looks like its a 6mm nipple so get a 4mm silicone cap and put a zip tie on it. Alternatively you can run a vacuum like from it to somewhere else yes. It would just do nothing.
Idk dude just use a better vacuum cap. Looks like its a 6mm nipple so get a 4mm silicone cap and put a zip tie on it. Alternatively you can run a vacuum like from it to somewhere else yes. It would just do nothing.
you want that thing hooked up somewhere before the throttle, the injector air bleed makes a huge difference in gas mileage
#9
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
If it is the air bleed port, it just needs atmospheric air. For emissions reasons the FD has that port going to the primary turbo inlet, since there could be fuel vapor or something in it it has to be drawn into the engine to be burned and cleaned by the cat per emissions regulations.
Really you can just run a hose from it to a small air filter to keep crap out of the system. I wouldn't run it open air, get some sand in there and you'd have your apex seals grinding that into your rotor housings.
It's worth having on the car, it's a simple system that's not in the way and does its job well.
Dale
Really you can just run a hose from it to a small air filter to keep crap out of the system. I wouldn't run it open air, get some sand in there and you'd have your apex seals grinding that into your rotor housings.
It's worth having on the car, it's a simple system that's not in the way and does its job well.
Dale
#10
Rotary Enthusiast
#11
If it is the air bleed port, it just needs atmospheric air. For emissions reasons the FD has that port going to the primary turbo inlet, since there could be fuel vapor or something in it it has to be drawn into the engine to be burned and cleaned by the cat per emissions regulations.
Really you can just run a hose from it to a small air filter to keep crap out of the system. I wouldn't run it open air, get some sand in there and you'd have your apex seals grinding that into your rotor housings.
It's worth having on the car, it's a simple system that's not in the way and does its job well.
Dale
Really you can just run a hose from it to a small air filter to keep crap out of the system. I wouldn't run it open air, get some sand in there and you'd have your apex seals grinding that into your rotor housings.
It's worth having on the car, it's a simple system that's not in the way and does its job well.
Dale
Could I run a hose from that port to a nipple on the UIM as circled below in red? Or are both vac ports ?
Cheers
#12
10000 RPM Lane
iTrader: (2)
Thanks, but no longer running twins. Full single and no solenoids /rats nest etc ….
.
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 06-13-22 at 11:42 AM.
#13
Senior Member
iTrader: (16)
There’s been lots of discussions on this forum about that port. That port is the air atomization for the primary injectors. If you were running the factory side feed injectors with the diffusers you should have it hooked up as j9fd3s suggested. I would use the hot side piping of your single turbo set up. TeamRx8 even linked a thread that shows the orientation as does the diagram you posted. If you are running aftermarket primary injectors, you could cap that port off. Select the proper size silicone vacuum cap and use either a zip tie or safety wire to hold it in place.
~ GW
~ GW
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Trinityevo13 (06-15-22)
#14
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
If you have poor fuel spray, you don't get good combustion. You want a fine, airborne mist of particles mixed with the incoming air, you then get a good burn of all the fuel. If you have large droplets or it's just sticking to the walls of the intake port you don't get good combustion and some of the fuel is wasted. Do this hundreds of times a minute and it adds up.
Dale
Dale
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Trinityevo13 (06-15-22)
#15
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
I do have to correct myself - stock it goes to turbo Y-pipe, NOT the turbo inlet.
That said, the suggestion for putting it into the hot side IC pipe is best. You can't use something on the UIM after the throttle body, that will be under vacuum. Really you'd just be making a loop since you're drawing air from the same place.
Dale
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Trinityevo13 (06-15-22)
#16
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If you have poor fuel spray, you don't get good combustion. You want a fine, airborne mist of particles mixed with the incoming air, you then get a good burn of all the fuel. If you have large droplets or it's just sticking to the walls of the intake port you don't get good combustion and some of the fuel is wasted. Do this hundreds of times a minute and it adds up.
Dale
Dale
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#17
Thanks TeamRX8, appreciate the input. And from everyone else.
I am running stock primary injectors. I capped it and used a spring clamp to hold it on securely. So far so good and hasn't blown off or caused any other issues.
Thanks for the response Dale, appreciate it. Will look into either:
1. Keeping it as is - blocked off
2. Running a hose and a filter
3. Running it into the hot side of the IC piping
Cheers
#20
Rotor or no motor
iTrader: (24)
A good silicon plug and safety wire will work well but An alternative solution to eliminate the nipple is to remove it and drill /tap an 1/16 npt for this size plug. It can be a pain in the *** because of the casting and theres not much room/flat surface to do it easily but its doable. I have eliminated all those nipples as i am running braided lines for all my vacuum lines except one for the map sensor and you ll never have to worry about it again. if you decide to reuse it you can always get a 1/16 npt to a barb fitting
Last edited by R-R-Rx7; 06-15-22 at 09:14 PM.
#21
A good silicon plug and safety wire will work well but An alternative solution to eliminate the nipple is to remove it and drill /tap an 1/16 npt for this size plug. It can be a pain in the *** because of the casting and theres not much room/flat surface to do it easily but its doable. I have eliminated all those nipples as i am running braided lines for all my vacuum lines except one for the map sensor and you ll never have to worry about it again. if you decide to reuse it you can always get a 1/16 npt to a barb fitting
#22
Senior Member
iTrader: (16)
You cannot just stick a filter on that unless you want a consistent vacuum and boost leak. That port goes directly to the primary intake runners. It needs to see pressurized air. None of the diagrams show it hooked up to filtered air, they all show it hooked up to the y-pipe. Since you are running factory side feed injectors, your best bet would be to follow the diagram and hook it up correctly to the hot side piping again.
~ GW
~ GW
#23
You cannot just stick a filter on that unless you want a consistent vacuum and boost leak. That port goes directly to the primary intake runners. It needs to see pressurized air. None of the diagrams show it hooked up to filtered air, they all show it hooked up to the y-pipe. Since you are running factory side feed injectors, your best bet would be to follow the diagram and hook it up correctly to the hot side piping again.
~ GW
~ GW
Cheers
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