What are people using recently for street driven modified cars w stock twins?
been away from the forum and pretty much the car for 9 years.
I think I have the act street something and I think that was the consensus when I had it installed 16 or so years ago so was curious if the forum is gravitating towards something else.

recently have a renewed interest in fixing up the car. But step one is to fix some wonky noise in the transmission. Will have another post, but I finally pulled the trigger and am having a mech look at it,

 

Welcome back.
You’re probably talking about the ACT Street/Strip. IIRC it’s good to about 400 hp but I don't remember noticing much of any difference in pedal effort over stock. And 16 or 17 years (maybe 80k) is about how long mine has been in with no issues as yet. I think a lot of guys like the Exedy too. ——> https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-gene...-pick-1145443/
Why do you think you need a clutch kit?
There are some peripherals that you might want to consider with an upgraded clutch and while the transmission is out. Resurface the FW. A new clutch fork, pilot bearing and seal, rear transmission seal and a new throw-out (clutch-release) bearing...which could be your noise described in that other thread. Swapping out the stock clutch line to the slave for a stainless one is nice too. Maybe $200 -$300 in parts for everything.
And obviously I’d drain and change gear oil while I’m at it and after sitting that long.

 

I'd do all the stuff recommended above and leave the clutch itself alone unless it's broken or wearing out.

My clutch and clutch fork broke a few years ago and my lightly-modified FD (street port + twins + bolt-ons + PFC) is running a stock clutch with no problems.

The lighter stock clutch engagement is easier to use in traffic than the ACT clutch that came with my car.

If I had to replace it (or planned for track use), I'd look at the ACT HD-M (Street/Strip) or the Exedy Stage 1 Heavy Duty (10802HD) or the regular (10802):

https://www.advancedclutch.com/produ...=p4493-c300687

https://shop.exedyusa.com/exedy-raci...2/i-34411.aspx

 

I have the Exedy stage 1, have had it for a few years and it's been a champ. I'm probably at the 350hp to the wheels area and I haven't had a single slip or anything with it.

Smooth to drive and isn't heavy on your leg.

Dale

 

I don’t want to change anything on the car. Just taking precautions because there’s a chance my issue could be the clutch so I was curious. There seems to be many amazing and new things for the rx7 since 10-15years ago so I was just wondering.
just guessing I would say the clutch was out in 15 years ago maybe 16 and prob about 40-50k miles. But it hasn’t been driven much In 10years and other than starting the car every once in a while not really driven for 2years.

 

It does look like the transmission will come down to find the cause of the issue and I hope the clutch is fine.
originally the plan was to fix it at a bear min cost and sell it, but it’s so hard to sell it after this long, and after poking around on YouTube....I have a new found interest in the car again.
so, since the trans will be out, I am considering looking into doing some things since it will be down like what you guys are recommending.
Anything else you guys may suggest?

 

May want to look into getting a light flywheel. I love mine. Prices have gotten better on them. Half the deal is having to drop the trans to install it.

Also if you don't have nice, fresh shifter bushings and boots that's worth doing. Makes a HUGE difference to the shifter. There's a few recent threads on that. Also (should be in those threads) there's a Miata inner boot you can use that's way cheaper than the FD part and works perfectly.

Dale

 

Big bore clutch cylinders are also available to improve clutch modulation and feel with heavy clutches. I have one to install with a twin disk Exedy.

 

I'm with Dale rolling with an Exedy stage 1 for several engines and decades.

No problems ever, and the clutch pedal feels like it should. If you're under 320hp or so to the wheels, there's no reason to punish your left leg or waste money with a blingy anodized clutch.

 

Nothing much behind the engine is different or unique from other 90’s era importS other than maybe the pull-type clutch. I’m thinking a decent experience mechanic will find your rattle.

Given the car has sat so much, I might have the mechanic flush the entire brake system since it’s been sitting a lot. Since systems are shared, that should also cover the clutch hydraulics.

Consider a set of tires if they’ve been sitting 9 years. Until then I’d stick close to home and be really careful with freeway speeds and summer heat.

Along with the the transmission gear oil you can consider at some point changing out diff gear oil too.

 

Avoid Competition Clutch.
Stupid loud clutch chatter, 1k mile CITY break-in, problems such as clicking and sticking in 1st gear (they will tell you that is normal if you ask). Prepare for sudden jerks forward when the clutch unsticks. Will scare your passenger. Worse than all of that is their atrocious customer support.
I installed their stage 3 model but had to pull everything back out due to a faulty iabed rms that leaked. Went to put it all back together but didn't have the instructions with the torque specs for the clutch. No big deal I thought, we called Competition Clutch for the values and they gave us the wrong specs! Nearly doubled what it called for. Over torqued everything, drivability was out the window.
Looked online and found the correct specs, had to remove the transmission for a 3rd time, on my dime of course. Called CC and they lied and said nobody gave that info out to me. I had the rep name, date, and time of the call. Their phone calls are recorded so I asked they pull the call. Sarah McCann made me wait a month to pull the recorded call but instead of calling me back she kept dodging me. Since she wouldn't return my call I talked to the sales manager Clifton Vassel who said they didn't record that particular call. How convenient right? He then said that doubling the torque value on the pressure plate wouldn't do anything to driveability and my mechanic must've did something else wrong. I asked if they could do anything to help with the costs due to their negligence and the answer was no because "you bought it off UroTuning." That guy actually had the nerve to call Urotuning and ask they take care of the situation for them. Obviously they said no. Last I heard from Clifton was he was going to get with his chief financial officer to see about cutting me a check and call me back. That was two weeks ago. He's dodging me and won't return my calls now. They have dragged out making this right for 4 months lie and after lie. I'm done.
Competition Clutch took the biggest **** on me and I'll forever drag them when that name comes up. Go with a different brand

 

I've been running the ACT S/S clutch with a lightened steel flywheel on my mostly stock car for many years and have been very happy with the setup. Been a long time since I've driven the stock clutch/FW but I don't think the driving characteristics are very different than stock. Very easy to drive on my car that's probably 280ish hp.