Yeah it works well TO give an idea on size, notice the size of the cold side pipe exiting the intercooler Most of the cooler is hidden I guess lol

 

I spy an RE:worx kit ^_^

I disagree, completely. I have the same kit as Ash and it's phenominal! There is very little pressure loss and the cooling is incredible (solid water temps, air temps stay 10 degrees above ambient) and there is really no need for ducting since there is NO ROOM for it!

I can, and have, pushed 17-18psi through my BNRs all day long without a raise in intake/water temps while using this kit.

 

I want to see more like HedgeHog's setup!

 

Bump this thread.

I would like to know more about Vmount setups with the radiator on TOP. Pictures, issues, pros, cons. I have the following thoughts.

1. Traffic intercooler heat soak would be a NON-issue with such a setup. When the radiator unit is on the bottom, like most vmounts, the heat still rises (basic physics) even with the fans on. This sends heat to the IC. This would NOT happen if radiator is on the top.

2. Keeping the radiator away from the road surface and related hazards to avoid damage and cooling system failure is a good thing.

3. Longer intake pipes are not good for boost response, but they wouldn't be any worse than a FMIC.

4. The radiator size might be an issue. How high can the radiator can be raised until interference with other components becomes an issue?

5. Maintaining the general OE radiator orientation (heat blows up) means that you should be able to use factory components more easily.

6. This setup would benefit best from a vented hood with shroud to direct radiator air away from other engine components (same with any setup I suppose)

Here is the only example I have seen in this thread and it certainly look impressive.

 

here is what i came up with for 200 bux ... 3" in/out intercooler
2.75 ( sock IN ) ... 3" OUT ... greddy elbow grinded to the 3"mark plus i eliminated soem 90 deg. turnse out of the stock design ...

[IMG][/IMG]



no time to do the ducting . maybe over the winter

 

That is a stock mount IC

 

And getting fed super hot air from the radiator!

 

This is extremely impressive......only think I would change is venting for engine bey heat. I'd add a few here and there. But your set up is what i'll be replicating in my custom set up... Good stuff man!!

 

dam that thing must be loud, ain got no silencing!

 

that is going to be WORSE than stock - there's no ducting.

for a stock-mount setup you MUST HAVE DUCTING! without ducting, that thing is going to heatsoak within 5 minutes of driving. it's pointless without ducting.

 

Going it be doing this myself, i see no downside to it. Also the radiator is away from the ground and harms way.

 

Here is my Knight-Sports V-Mount Setup.

 

^^^ What bumper is that?

 

i believe that's an Ing bumper, but what intake box is that??

 

Half right...
INGS+1 bumper

Intake is Knight-Sports Cold Air intake for V-Mount


here is a link:
http://www.neweraparts.com/Default.a...&ProductID=408

 

...lol, man what do you think he means with "Ing", no reason to be stuffy here...

 

WTF??
why are you bitching around here?? I know that he meant INGS+1 but maybe S1mpsons didn´t knew.
search in google "ING Rx-7"
and you´ll see why I corrected sp_amend...
not to show him that he is stupid, but to help s1mpsons to find it if he´ll search for it.

 

and that is what I did...

 

I disagree.
With the radiator on top, heat from the radiator is being blown up and into the engine bay increasing underhood temps and heat soak.
With the radiator on the bottom, heat from the radiator is being blown down and under the car. Especially if you vent the undertray.
From a real life testing standpoint, I vented the stock undertray by cutting some openings in it to better vent rad heat. This change alone resulted in a noticeable difference in AITs when stuck in traffic or slow speed situations.


Why is there a perceived benefit in this? Instead you place the IC in a more hazardous position. If it breaks, you injest foreign objects into your intake and blow the motor. If the rad breaks, you have a little more time to recover.

Design the mounting system properly as Speed of Light did on his setup (which I use) and risk of road surface hazard is decreased significantly.

Search for pics of his mounting subframe on this and other threads for more info.


From a packaging perspective, it makes more sense to keep the IC on top. That is where the piping is shortest and already positioned for the most appropriate routing.

Not very much. there are many packaging constraints.

Bad assumption. There is very little you can reuse w/o modifying in some way. The PS cooler needs to be repositioned. A/C lines are easier to reuse with minor modification if the rad and A/C condenser is on the bottom. You'd have to seriously modify A/C lines if it were on top.

In my experience, even more so with a vented hood, having the IC on top is the better orientation.


I personally don't think it does. Its obvious he spent a lot of time on it but there are a few shortcomings that I see:

1. The IC piping is longer than with a 'standard' V-Mount setup
2. The IC core is almost parallel to the air flow. Air To Air cores work best when they are perpendicular to air flow. The more flatter or parallel it is mounted, the less efficient.
3. The Radiator core is also almost parallel to air flow also therefore less efficient.

You want to try and design the < shape to be as wide as possible to try and promote the best possible air flow and increase overall efficiency. Ducting can only help already efficient design. Ducting can help a marginal design work better but its not optimal IMO and experience.

 

All very good thoughts and correct. Try and read my points 1 & 6 together. With a good hood vent with shroud/ducting, I don't think heat soak will as you say.

 

 

maximum radiator angle while keeping it well above the tow hooks for safety and very close ducting:


maximum angle for intercooler to allow most flow through the 4.5" thick core. and still plenty of room for a nice cold air intake thats fed from the front bumper opening:


and even with a stock hood i still see IATs of 35-40* while cruising (still running in tho so cant boost it yet)

Brad.

 

Rotary extreme powedercoated wrinkle black

 

penguin: i love the wrinkle finish, is it hard to keep clean? i know my satin black is a massive pita to keep dust and **** off.... partly due to having one gaurd liner missing but still, is it easy enough to keep clean?

Brad.

 

I have yet to clean it since putting it on ( nov 09 )

Very easy on maintenance.