I posted my results of running the Re-Medy water pump in the original thread. Highly recommend it.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...3/#post7982136

 

it's a well known fact that coolant temps are relatively easy to control in track conditions with the stock water pump when the rest of the vehicle is adequately setup.


air temp has been the one I've had the most difficulty with (and fritz too, from what I understand).

 

gracer, it appears you tracked yours while also upgrading to a vmount. did you do any testing before/after with the water pump being the only change?


i'm only asking because I had zero issues with my stock water pump. I had a decent VMIC setup and nice dual oil coolers with ducts, and all temps stayed in check.

 

Sounds like a bunch of poor installs

Contrary to your experience, every water injection setup I've been involved with or exposed to (Aquamist back in the day and AEM most recently) has been dead reliable and works flawlessly--- fill up the tank and go.

Water/Aux injection has many benefits that have been detailed on this forum over and over again..... it's your choice not to run it on your track car, but in the meantime I for one will enjoy lower AITs and a (much) larger threshold against detonation

 

The installer is definitely in question. On a serious note I'd probably break your car in a weekend

However the last water injection car I had issues with IRP installed LOL. Black 94 PEG owned by an old dude. I'm sure you remember the car.

 

I get it. W/I is another complication on an already complicated car. Same reason I don't want to do diff/trans coolers, it's just another thing to go wrong. I will say that in the 8+ years of using a W/I system at the track I've only had one big failure (bad pump) and a few little annoyances (small leaks as you noted). My system is very simple though (one pressure switch, no variable controller) and I think that's important to reliability.

I'm shocked you finally went with the EFR kit, I figured you'd keep burning through cheap kits. Peter's car must have worked that well huh? Keep us posted on how it works out.

 

If I had charge temp issues I'd give WI a go but it's not an issue.

If I was smart I'd simply start using E85 because exhaust temps are my biggest problem and that may be my next big change. I just worry about finding it.

I'll probably kill the EFR kit too and I'm a little concerned about the turbo out of the gate. I will give Elliot a call later to discuss other options because I eat ball bearing turbos before lunch but I've had good luck with t78, t04e (oil and water cooled), The current BIG very pricey BB turbo I have on now is a POS... probably work great a drag car LOL

The kits I'm burning through are made up of:

HKS tubular and cast (cast last about 1 year longer) manifolds
Tial wastegates (I don't even bother with anymore) they are ****
HKS old school racing waste gates do pretty well

My current problem: turbo is falling out of the turbo manifold (that's a new one for me). It's likely just getting too hot and the bolts are backing out from vibration etc... It lasted about 2 days before this started and now it's a constant issue. The turbo is too big anyway. Overall I've had more issues with turbo kits than anything else by a LONG shot.

 

^ Since OP is on twins, what has your luck been on the twins?

 

why?
and have you tried the water cooled ones?

 

Diaphrams fall apart because of heat (it's happened twice/one too many and hasn't happened with the HKS)

No I haven't tried the water cooled ones and I won't because if the HKS wg doesn't need water why would I add water (6 more problems/two lines and 4 fittings) to some other WG

 

E85 is a consideration, but it's not always available around all of the tracks you might go to. We use A LOT of fuel on track weekends so trying to carry your own supply for the whole weekend would require a big tank in the back of your truck. Not exactly the most convenient.

I admit that I use W/I (with a bit of Meth these days) to help compensate for a less than ideal sized intercooler, but you may consider it. Water doesn't change intake temps or EGTs, but along the lines with the OP's discussion it does reduce combustion temps which I think over the course of a 20-30min session helps keep those high RPM temps better in check.

Full disclosure, even with the water/meth I run now (24%-ish meth) I still had to remove my A/C in order to keep temps where I wanted them on a 90+ degree ambient track day.

On the turbo stuff, I hope you have good success with the EFR. I'm waiting on you and Peter to have good success with them before I make the jump. For now I'm dealing with the issues Peter had with the twins (heat, warping manifolds every 2 years or so).

 

Sounds like forced induction is just another complication

The way to go is 3/4 rotor NA (when in doubt, bore it out)

 

That's what the GT3 is for

That said there is nothing that compares to a turbo FD on track

 

The last time I had the FD out it was on the N course back in June. Easily reals in a well driven 6 GT3. I'm on 2010 C51s with 15 plus heat cycles or basically done and OLD. He's on fairly fresh 2016 R7s. I'm using a big laggy turbo at 10 psi.


Here's another from the same event just lapping/breezing in traffic and running 5 1.38 laps in row. If you've never driven the north anything below a 1.40 isn't too shabby.


The FD is a monster and so much fun to drive

 

Let's focus the conversation back on the topic - the Re-Medy water pump - instead of Fritz breaking ****

If it ain't broken...

The OP's categorization of the FD water pump 'sucking' just ain't true. It works fine within it's design parameters. All mechanical water pumps designed for street use will probably cavitate at high rpm. It won't cavitate at all rpm.


Any testing I did or before/after results w/ the RE-Medy pump, I probably posted in the old thread and have long since forgotten. I do remember being very satisfied with the performance of the pump after installing it and everything still works as it did all those years ago.

 

Exactly the water pump is the least of our worries

 

I use a remedy on my 8. it solved the cavitation issue I was seeing. Or, the temp spikes I was seeing above 8,000 RPM accompanied by the coolant light coming on from the bubbles, went away. A guy on 8 club, Legot I think, did a flow sim that pointed to cavitation around that point. Another fix is an under-drive pulley. The 8 s2 pump looks a lot more like a remedy than the s1 pump.

Not sure if that helps. I have not pulled my FC apart yet (still working other challenges), but the remedy really helped with the 8 high RPM problem.

 

+1 on the water injection. I have no personal experience with AI on a FD, but seems like I have only heard great things about it. Have you considered going electric water pump over the RE-Medy pump? It cost more but if you are serious about tracking your car its worth it. Plus you should free up more HP with an electric water pump than the RE-Medy.

 

Exactly. WI takes heat out with the exhaust, reducing load on the cooling system (and also controls knock and carbon).

 

Typically the leaner a car runs the hotter the exhaust.

The last thing a track car needs to worry about is carbon.

If I'm driving in 100 degree weather and my AITs are lower than 50c I don't need no stinking WI. My coolant temps are NEVER above 185. My oil is too high it's always at 200 plus because the turbo is always on power. I need bigger than 25 row coolers. WI isn't going to measurably lower my oil temps or exhaust temps.

Bigger oil coolers and running E85 are the answers to my current problems not WI.

I'll probably run my new little *** turbo at 12 psi and just go slow and that will likely keep me going a while. Fingers crossed. The FD doesn't need power unless you are looking for hero laps.

 

Your call. But you don't even know what WI does and dismiss it as a "bandaid". It's not. And it's not intended to lower IATs either.

 

It cleans the engine, it prevents knock, etc... AFAIK the most important thing it does is decrease charge temps (that's what I refer to as air temps)

GAS does all the same things with the exception of air temps so if I'm controlling air temps with a massive vmount I don't need water. AGAIN it's really important to not that I boost at 12 psi typically and sometimes turn it up to 14.

 

Yep, yep and nope....unless maybe pre-ic. WI is not AI.

 

SERIOUSLY!!!!!

Sorry I'm not a patient person LOL

So you are saying WI doesn't cool the air going into the engine?

 

Yes....seriously. And yes, that's what I'm saying....LOL.
Simple water injection isn't as good at lowering IATs as AI. Depending on where and how it's introduced it might lower IATs a little but it's main value is in the combustion chamber. With its phase change from liquid to vapor it absorbs ALOT of heat from the combustion event (google "specific heat") and takes it out with the exhaust. And that significantly reduces load on the rest of the cooling system...almost certainly to include oil temps although Ive never monitored it.
Alcohol is better at lowering IATs because of its evaporative cooling.