Hey everyone,

So from what I understand, the stock water pump sucks and cavitates at high RPM. I think some under drive it to reduce cavitation as well. So Mazmart has the RE-medy pump with a new impeller that's designed to not cavitate until 10k+. Who all runs this pump in a track environment and can vouch for its effectiveness? While at the track, extended high RPM situations raise my temps out of control, whereas if I short shift at 6500-7000RPM, I don't have heat issues. So I'm wondering if this pump, coupled with their thermostat, will be effective on keeping temps in check at high RPM situations.

Matt

 

i personally thing these aren't necessary, but i haven't used one on my own car.

 

It's not the water pump LOL

There's is a HUGE, HUGE!!!! heat difference in every 100 RPM increase after 5k much less 6k or 7k rpm etc.....

In 15 plus years of tracking this car it's not about the water pump. The water temp is the easiest thing to control. Diff, trans and engine oil is what are hard to control.

 

I have one but it hasn't been installed very long. Think it would be very hard to assess it's performance as you'd need to be able to log coolant flows against engine speed (you really can't use water temps as a measure because there are too many other variables that affect water temps beside flow). IMO a better mouse trap is an electric water pump. These can be variably controlled by a program vice linearly controlled by engine speed. These were not an option when I got my re-medy pump. The only con on the EWPs is if there's an electrical/control failure. Now weigh that probability against a catastrophic belt failure.

 

Thread jack

It's well known that coolant temps cause catastrophic engine failures. Is there evidence that trans and diff temps cause catastrophic failure?

Also, it's not that hard. You just need to plumb an adequate heat exchanger which is fairly common for engine oil. The question is it worth doing for the trans and diff?

 

Way out of left field but possibly useful.

In the AE86 community for a few years people wanted the techno pro spirit water pump for the same cavitation reasons. Turns out a certain brand of water pump you could get at napa/orielly had the same five blades as the techno pro spirit compared to the oem seven blades.

If you're committed to the idea of dealing with cavitation, that may be a route to look at.

 

Koyo 3 pass, proper ducting, an FC thermostat and some water wetter. I've never had a water temp or cavitation problem, even at Buttonwillow in the middle of the summer.

I keep it at or near stock boost though.

 

A simple AI system is pretty effective for temp spikes after periods of boost too. And it's side effects control carbon and reduce knock.

 

Get a race front bumper like the mazda GT, a vmount, 2 25 row oil coolers and you are all set. Of course you also need great duct work.

Now you've spent 4k to fix the three biggest coolant issues out of the gate.

Most won't have trans and diff issues until they have mastered the go pedal.

 

band aid

 

Yeah...like expensive water pumps and all the stuff you listed.

 

Thanks for all the replies.

@Natey

Not sure how you keep your coolant temps down with that. I've got a Koyo, proper ducting, dual R1 coolers, FC thermoswitch (assuming that's what you meant), and an 80/20 water/coolant mix with water wetter and my temps get out of control quick in the AZ heat.

@Fritz

There's never a cheap route to fix things is there? LOL. Guess I'll be saving the dough for the V mount. It will probably end up being the Greddy V mount. I can definitely tell when you say the heat difference is huge after 6k RPM. It's 100% true I've seen it first hand. LOL. I would love to grab the SBG 25 row coolers too, but I'll work on those when I start increasing power output. I think properly ducted stock duals should suffice for stock power.

Matt

 

I have a Koyo knock off radiator in stock location with stock pump, ducting and thermostat, FC thermoswitch and CWR dual 19 row oil coolers. I run Evans NPG+ coolant. Never had a temp problem even on track days on 95F hot days.

of course power levels affect heat produced, I'm currently at about 360whp on stock twins but I track at lower boost closer to 320whp level.

 

I'd double check that ducting. I have the same set up as you and have never seen my temps spike at all. Like I said, even in death valley in august.

My car's engine is 100% stock except for the Koyo, the R1 coolers, a well-tuned PFC, and a Blitz SMIC with the stock duct.

10-8-10 and no more.

 

NOPE

I said you should stick with a stock water pump and the aftermarket pump isn't needed. Just like water injection isn't needed for road racing.

The rest of the stuff I listed you already have/need but you can and must make them better

 

Speaking about oil cooling, is the stock oil pump up for the task of road racing? I know people ditch the stock OMP. Is the problem with it volume related or eventual failure. What are the Road racers using for their oil pump?

 

I removed the mouth ducts for a bigger mouth and installed thick foam to seal the openings. Maybe there is something I'm not seeing with my ducting? :/

 

Matt,

To really make it work with the condenser you need a different bumper.

Or pull the condenser and do the shark tooth mod.

 

Oil pump isn't a problem or oil pickup isn't a problem. I run a quart low and don't have a problem with bearings etc...

People ditch the OMP because they are already adding premix along with the OMP so why not delete it? Pure track car it's a no brainer but if it's s street car I'd keep it.

 

I recently dumped my condenser, added a '99 bumper, Ron Davis radiator, dual 25 row Setrab's, home made SMIC, and Re-medy pump. It's really hard getting my oil temps over 170 and H2O over 185 (with no ducting other than an undertray)*. Problem is I didn't make those mods sequentially so I have no idea the difference each alone makes.

If I were to guess, the condenser, upgraded radiator, and dual Setrabs made the biggest difference.

*Fineprint Disclaimer: Recorded temps were not track temps

 

I've looked at the shark tooth mod. Just making the mouth bigger. That's incentive to go 99 spec at least for sure. I cannot ditch the condenser. With AZ heat being unbearable for 6 months out of the year and this being my daily...I just can't.

Matt

 

Understood and makes perfect sense.

I'd recommend the 99 bumper or GTC (not curb friendly)

 

Once you track it please report back with ambient temp, video and lap time

 

I've been using the IRP updated water pump on track with success, but also had lots of success with the stock one. I'd say the IRP is an in-between the stock and RE-Medy. it's just like stock with the bent fins but supposedly has a better cone design for better flow. I was replacing my stock one anyway so I opted for the IRP. Not sure I'd go out of my way to change to that if you're not experiencing any issues with the stock one.

I agree with Fritz that the other components of cooling are more important than the water pump and it's not the immediate weak link. Although contrary to him, I do use water injection on the track and believe it to be a benefit. I wouldn't rely on it though, you need the core components to be there first (radiator, good ducting, big dual oil coolers)

 

I bet water injection has all kinds of positives and I think the pump may have some benefit as well and so would an idler pulley etc...etc... however the more things you change from OEM and the more UNNECESSARY ancillary parts you add the more problems you will likely have.

AND every water injection kit I've had on any car I've purchased has been a joke that either leaked or didn't work properly.

Pete's idler pulley kit ruined his engine and weekend at the track.

When it comes to a track car it either works or it doesn't and when you finally find something that works LORD KNOWS you don't change a damn thing. You focus on what doesn't work. In my case that is and has always been shitty turbo kits.

Maybe the EFR kit I'm buying will work for at least a year or two LOL. Fingers crossed.