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I have seen a thread earlier where someone lowered the floor. I’m about 6’3 tall, and the car is without sunroof. The rollcage is as close to the roof as possible, so the only way i can go is down 😂
At least a couple have been detailed on site, (even with pics iirc?), where floors have been cut out over the years. The car here has been done too and it's not the only one locally. If you do it, usually handy to mod the tunnel, while you're down there.
Lots of the time, the type of roof reinforcement selected, between the main hoop and the screen front bar can make a major difference for your head, especially when you add the SFI foam. Also, depends where the height is in your body if you fit comfortably....long in the legs, less a problem than torso!
That issue depends on:
- your height - particularly torso length
- the desired seat
- the seat mounting brackets
FDs are fairly roomy without an interior but the seat brackets that people select often limit how low they can get the seat. You want to attach the seat mounts to the floor and use reinforcement plates on the opposite side so that the bolts don't rip out. That should get you plenty of room for most 6'0 - 6'3" ish sized people.
How tall are you? Give us details / pics on your mounts.
Thanks for many great questions and answers. I'm new to this with forums, and a little bad in language but trying anyway.
I have the problem that I'm tall in the back, and short legs. I have fiberglass chairs from a local company, with side-mounted supports, but think i Get the seat as low as possible on them.
The body of the rx7 is worn but is starting to get good. I have cutted into the floor now, and tried to bend it a little. I think I will be able to get the seat low enough, without it offering too big problems with the rollover cage, or the ground. I think the helmet comes in between the rollcage, so it will probably not be optimal. I dont know how it is approved to sit. I took this picture before i left.
Surprised you didn't notch the tranny tunnel to get the seat more inward. Looks good though. Maybe add in some welded nuts for the lap and submarine straps on the 6 point belts.
Are the fuel lines under the driver side of the FD? I forget... If so, might want to re-route or protect them somehow. Now that my seat pan is lower, I often feel it scraping on/off the trailer and the occasional off track excusion.
The gear tunnel was modified by the previous owner, but there is not much more room to get before it hit the tranny. I’m planing to use FIA approved brackets for the belts, and short 10.9 M10 bolts for the seat.
I honestly do not know where they go stock, I have almost no knowledge of rx7 from before. I have thought a bit about letting them go on the right side of the car, or maybe inside the coupe. The floor pan should be deeper, i have about 3cm clearance between my helmet and the roof... :s the pan protrudes about 1cm lower than the side skirts.
Yeah, above average huge scandinavian boy 😂 Thanks for all the help, I think things will go a little further now. Fortunately I do not have a big stomach, so I get in and out of the car without too much trouble 😂
Stock fuel lines are on the LHS on right and wrong hand drive.....looks like long gone on this car.
Should have been space in the tunnel if a stock box, but going by the mods up top, there's something else installed.
Also find rake on the seat helps, but you might be limited by the cage installation and what looks like off-the-shelf seat mounts.
Depending on your trailer and how low you set the car up, the crotch strap mounts can be a pain, especially with 7/16" eyebolt hardware. The requirement over there 10mm? Here it's 8.8 x M8 min, smaller head sizes might be an advantage to avoid any hang ups.
This is a track car, so i think i can place the lines where i want. I’m not sure which engine or gearbox i will use, so things might be tight but time will show.
The requirement is as you said, 7/16" eyebolt hardware and m8/m10 for seats. Might be a problem with the threads left under the nut, i don’t know if its allowed to cut of the remaining threads after the nut. On both belt and seat.
General rule of thumb was two threads had to be left and showing out of the nut. Scrutineers seem far less astute and unlikely to be checking under a car for compliance nowadays though.
Unless you have one of the $$ lowering trailers, a few chocks under the ramps, or a jack under the drawbar, or simply good slope positioning should minimize problems
I saw the title and came in here to show how I lowered the mounting points on the floorboard to make the stock seats sit lower.... But then I saw you cut the entire floor open That's dedication but understandable with a track car. Last thing you want is something that is uncomfortable to fit in.
Pic of what I did to gain about an inch of headroom. (Sunroof car)
I can't imagine. I don't have any, ahem, height problems, but my race seat is as low as it can be (on the floor) and I had to slightly modify my driving style so my elbows wouldn't keep hitting the armrest on the door and the center tunnel.
I can't imagine. I don't have any, ahem, height problems, but my race seat is as low as it can be (on the floor) and I had to slightly modify my driving style so my elbows wouldn't keep hitting the armrest on the door and the center tunnel.
I'm sure you did. The nice thing about race cars is that you no longer have an interior to worry about. I hate driving street NA and NB Miatas because the interior is cramped. My SM is roomy AF since it is totally gutted
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07-09-21, 08:54 PM
That's dedication but understandable with a track car. Last thing you want is something that is uncomfortable to fit in.
