I'm going to install the new engine in my FD this weekend. I'm looking for input on how to make the job easier. I'd also like to learn from mistakes others have made. For example, a friend suggested I not attach the downpipe - just have it wired to the side of the engine compartment and then attach it as the engine is lowered into the engine bay - this way I will not have to fight the downpipe hitting stuff as I'm lowering the engine in. Another friend suggested attaching the motor mounts once the engine is lowered 90% of the way in so I don't have to fight them hitting stuff.

Any other constructive comments would be greatly appreciated!!!

 

Yes, leave the downpipe off. It can easily be installed from the underside once the engine is installed.



I also leave the charge outlet pipe off of the rear turbo. It also gives more clearance to the firewall if it is removed.



I’ve always installed the motor mounts on the engine first. Mostly because they go on at the same time I seal up the oil pan with fresh RTV. I could see having them off as beneficial as they do like to catch on everything possible. However a pry bar is usually good enough to walk them off of any interferences.



It also looks like you are installing it with the transmission in the car. That might actually be easier to drop the engine in but I’ve never done it that way. Make sure your clutch is properly aligned (I usually have to trim a 1/4” off the end of the alignment tool to make sure it can sit flush and properly locate the clutch.



I used to use the alignment tool as is from the clutch manufacturer and the clutch was always misaligned enough to not allow the trans and engine to mate together. This was even with the parts outside of the car and me trying to force the input shaft in. I used to loosen up the pressure plate to allow the clutch to float, install the transmission then use the top access port to retighten the pressure plate until a forum member suggested trimming the alignment tool. It’s been gravy ever since.

 

If the transmission is attached, use a hoist leveler and raise the front of the car so it's angled up.

If not, it probably drops right in

And yes, i had trouble dropping w/ DP attached

 

All the above are excellent advises. Do it slow, don't rush it, specially when mating the transmission shaft through the clutch and finally to the escentric shaft. The angle of the engine is very important as you start dropping the engine in. Other than that be safe.

 

Have 1 or 2 friends handy. You can do it by yourself, but it's not safe and it will take a LOT longer. I typically have one person operating the engine hoist and a person on each side of the car guiding things in and watching.

Keep a sharp eye on the AC lines, they like to get snagged on stuff and can bend/break.

Dale

 

My brother and I put mine in without the UIM and DP, but I did have the transmission attached. A load leveler made that very easy ( ) get one with a nut drive so you can use a drill. I say remove the hood, front bumper, and cover if you can. If you can remove the front fenders it's even better, but I didn't have to. I didn't have much trouble with my attached engine mounts. Wear gloves! I was spared a possible gnarly hand injury because I wore gloves on an engine install (not my FD). Stay safe!

 

Timely and relevant thread for me, as I'll be pulling my motor to install a oil pan brace in the near future. Anyway, it'll be the first time I'm pulling & installing a motor in an FD, though I'm no stranger to doing this in FCs/FBs.

In my case it should be much easier being it's a single turbo FD, currently without AC or ABS, so lots of the stock annoyances that would get in my way don't apply. Nonetheless, I've been deep-diving the FD FSM to prepare for the job. One thing I find interesting is that the FSM advises you to remove the transmission first before doing anything to remove the engine, yet after searching the forum it seems the consensus here is that removing the transmission first is not really necessary. If this were an FC. I'd agree 100% - not enough experience with FDs to form an opinion yet. I gather there are trade-offs for each approach; removing the transmission first would make the re-installation of the engine and mating of the tranny a lot easier and less frustrating, but there's much more work to do up front obviously to pull the transmission. Since I now have a 4-post lift, I'm thinking the FSM way might not be so bad though. Curious if any of the seasoned wrenches here tried it both ways, with or without the help of a lift. and what your experiences were pro or con for each approach?

 

You don't need to pull the engine to replace the oil pan, esp if you have a lift. Just secure it from the top with a hoist (or a bar that goes across the fenders) and drop the subframe.

I removed and installed with the transmission. It was relatively easy to pull, getting back in was a major swear fest. I did not think on angling the car up, had the DP on, and had aftermarket motor mounts. Took me like all day to get that sucker in. Ended up removing the DP and subframe. Think it would have gone a lot easier if i had simply angled the car up.

 

that is a ton of work, the engine without the trans (ive never done one with the trans), will go in and out without removing the hood.

 

Roger that, but besides the pan brace, there's other stuff I need to do that is just easier with the engine out, such as cleaning the mess left from the car's POs and possibly repainting the engine bay. Thanks to this damned pandemic, I have more shop time to do all this crap

Had a similar experience with my FC - getting engine & tranny out as a unit was easy-peasy, putting them back in was a PITA, but that was pre-lift days with only jacks & jack stands. I did play with the car's angle on the stands, but even doing so it was an iterative PITA

 

My prior engine installs were on cars with automatic transmissions. I had not thought about clutch alignment... The car is new to me with an existing Exedy clutch. Not sure how I am going to do this without an alignment tool.

Thanks to everyone for all the helpful input!!!

 

Simple, get an alignment tool

 

I think it's easier to pull the engine and leave the trans in the car. It's worth pulling the whole thing if you have a reason to do something with the trans, but if not you end up having to drain the trans, remove the PPF, remove the driveshaft, remove main cat - just a lot more work.

My general order of operation for removing an engine -

- Unplug ECU connectors and pull ECU harness through the firewall
- Put front of car on jackstands
- Do under the car stuff - unbolt engine to trans, remove starter, disconnect the throwout bearing, unbolt motor mounts, disconnect oil cooler lines
- Last thing under the car is drain oil and coolant, that way you aren't laying in a mess if you make it. Drain the block drain for the engine as well, bottom of center iron on spark plug side.
- Remove battery, IC, airbox, disconnect coolant hoses
- Unbolt AC from engine bracket
- Suck out the PS fluid from the pump. Remove the 2 lines going to the pump, leave the pump on the bracket
- Remove throttle and cruise control cables, remove harness going to alternator/coil packs (driver's side harness)
- Disconnect any other small things (map sensor, brake booster vacuum line)
- Hook up hoist to the 2 engine hooks and work a little up, a little out. Can help to have a floor jack under the trans to support it up higher.
- Once out remove the oil cooler line going to the oil filter pedestal and the AC/PS bracket, then bolt the engine stand adapter to the engine and put it on the stand

I try to take as little as possible apart on the engine and do most of it on the stand. I do NOT remove the hood, never had a reason to. I can only see removing the front bumper if the engine hoist isn't long enough, but I have a plain vanilla Harbor Freight hoist that can get as far back as I need without touching the bumper.

I can typically have a motor out of the car, on the engine stand, and totally broken down to the apex seal level in 2.5 hours. But, if it's your first time or you don't do it often, TAKE PICTURES and LABEL EVERYTHING. I also keep a bunch of Ziploc bags to organize and label parts and bolts.

Dale

 

Installing with the trans already in the car can be super easy or maddening getting the input shaft to line up correctly. By yourself it can be a challenge if you aren't used to it. Don't rush, if it doesn't want to line up very slightly turn the front main pulley. Also, once it is mated together, it is easier to install the down pipe before letting the passenger side motor mount seat into the place fully. If that side of the engine is slightly raised it gives about an extra 1/4-1/2" of work space to get the downpipe on. Also tuck the wiring harness up on top of the engine with the connectors up by the front of the alternator. This keeps it out of harms way.

 

A hoist load leveler can be your best friend too.

I've done it with the trans, 3" DP, OEM motor mounts attached. Hoist and leveler slip it right in with the hood off.

 

I have the engine hoist with a leveler. I'm just wondering if I am stuck until I get a clutch alignment tool.

Thanks to everyone for your input!!!

 

I'd get the alignment tool - it can be done without, but it's more difficult and not worth the frustration. If you're putting in a new clutch while you're in there, more than likely the new clutch will come with a plastic alignment tool.

 

only if you want to be, you can eyeball it, or use some implement or other to measure it. or make one, its just 2 concentric circles...

i usually end up doing this job at some other place than my house, so its about half the time i don't use the tool

 

I found a clutch alignment tool in my garage from a Miata clutch I replaced years ago (thought I had given it to a friend). The Miata clutch alignment tool fits snug in the pilot bearing. It's slightly smaller than the clutch, so I will wrap some tape around that bit of the tool so it is a snug fit and I think it will work fine.

Thanks again everyone for all the input!

 

This! I put the bolts into cheap fold top sandwich baggies and then zip tie it to the part they came off of. Requires no labeling or thinking and you just grab and go when it's reinstall time.