max1os

Yeah Man!!

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

If you want to buy or sell parts, we have a pretty rad FS section. And, if you want to reach any member in particular we have private messaging here as well. Please don't conduct personal business in this thread or discussion sections in general. Thank you.

Manny_Apex

iTrader: (1)

All this CYM talk has me wondering what mine is worth. Not that I'd sell it, but just to get a rough idea. I bought it stock with 219k miles. I've since had the motor rebuilt using almost all new parts (new rotors, new housings, old irons and e-shaft, new seals and a fresh coat of yellow and black paint) and converted it to single turbo but besides another set of wheels, 99 front bumper, and 99 wing, I don't plan on modifying it anymore. I understand you can never get what you spent in modifications, but I believe it's worth every penny I've spent to keep this car on the road and get some enjoyment out of it.

tomsn16

iTrader: (284)

[QUOTE=jza80;12421445]Can’t help with the car choice, but I am highly envious of your garage.
Garage getting more "envious" as trim nears completion.

asesereker

I was reading through this thread, and wanted to share something to help some people out...
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​​​​​When it comes to insurance, a primary concern – and rightfully so -- of classic and collector car owners is how much your policy will pay out if you have an accident and your car is a total loss.

Of course, much of that payout depends on what type of coverage you have on your vehicle. We’ll talk about two types in this article, Stated Value and Guaranteed Value® (also known as Agreed Value), but first we must review something called Actual Cash Value.

Because most cars begin depreciating the moment they’re driven off the lot, standard insurance companies insure your cars accordingly. They will adjust your payout based on what the car would be worth the day of the accident (prior to any damage occurring), instead of what you originally paid. This is referred to as a vehicle’s Actual Cash Value.

Stated Value is coverage that reflects an amount that is “stated” at the onset of the policy. You tell your insurer what your car is worth (with proper documentation) and it is insured for that amount. The caveat here, however, is that the insurance company can choose to pay you either the Stated Value or the Actual Cash Value, whichever is less.

Alternatively, Agreed Value, coverage primarily offered by specialty insurers, is based on the proven value of your car as determined by you and the insurance company, according to appraisals, photos, or other relevant documentation. With Agreed Value coverage, the insurance company will guarantee that they will pay this agreed-upon value in the event of a covered total loss.

If you own a classic or collector car that is maintaining or increasing in value, Agreed Value is the best option to consider, or you risk losing out significantly if you have an accident. It’s important to note that most standard insurance companies do not typically offer Agreed Value, unless they partner with a specialty provider.

If there’s anything you should know about your insurance, this one’s at the top of the list. Ask your insurance company what kind of coverage you have, and make sure it is Agreed Value or Guaranteed Value®*, as we call it here at Hagerty.
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Although I don't have my policy through Hagerty anymore, they are A top dog in the agreed value policy world, so they know what they're talking about.

asesereker

max1os ...

Wow! Your CYM looks awesome man! Very clean! Congrats!
What is going on with that stripe?!
I've never seen that before.
Time to lower her !
After lowering, you can put spacers with the stock wheels and get pretty good fitment too.
FDs are a blast to drive, and meant to be driven!
Enjoy it!

djseven

iTrader: (56)

As is probably $12-15k. Sad reality but selling a FD with over 150k miles is tough, selling one with over 200k miles is near impossible withoutgiving it away. If you go to sell it the car will be worth the most fully parted out. However, a quick way to get good money out of it would be to sell the drive train($2500-7k depending), 99 spec bumper setup($1000 used), 99 spec spoiler($1000.00 Used), Wheels($1000-3000) and sell the chassis as a full interior roller for $6-9k. I absolutely hate seeing good FDs get parted out to a bare chassis(I still love you Tomsn16) but that is how they are worth the most money.

c0rbin9

iTrader: (2)

^ If it's clean I bet it would fetch at least $18k. I would be interested at that price, at least.

max1os

Hello asesereker,

Thanks. If you scroll up a bit, I pretty much explain the history of the stripe (and the car). I have had two others that were modified. This one is going to stay just the way she is.

-Michael

tomsn16

iTrader: (284)

DJseven is so correct....complete cars are difficult to sell for full value.
Here's pic of latest part-out car.....parts will be posted in a few weeks.

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Man that's a clean looking shell. Do you guys just sell the shell to racers when you're done with it? I feel like there's gonna be a market for fully restorations soon, which could moot mileage for clean examples.

tomsn16

iTrader: (284)

So far our bare shells have all gone to owners for transfer projects.....they have good complete FD's that have been wrecked or have salvage titles.
Our chassis/complete shells always include a clean title & dash VIN plate
The MB shell in pic is more than clean....it does no need paint and has zero dings.

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

The last FD on BAT did pretty good, clocked almost 30k all done for a red/tan repaint driver.
Car seemed real clean underneath, but I trust exactly zero people to get the trim on and off an FD correctly for a repaint without ruining everything.

What y'all think of Demuro's new Cars and Bids thing?

wthx100

Heres how this guy is valuing 45k usd.
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/rds...160165940.html

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Tryna make someone pay for all his modifications. That price is a moon shot....for now....

wthx100

May as well put another zero on it but thats how things are priced around me.

Tommykaira

iTrader: (2)

These cars would be selling for more if there wasn't so much uninspired media making the same asides about reliability or made-up concerns. Every reviewer has the same guilt-ridden tic whenever RX-7s are mentioned. They can't help but mention a fault or apologize for the car even when they have no good reason to.

An FD burns about as much oil as so many e46 M3s and it gets the same gas mileage; yet, every review or discussion about the BMW isn't riddled with "despite the poor gas mileage and burning oil..." or "I still like the quirky S54 even though...."

I think if more people actually owned a rotary-engined car they'd realize how unexceptional they are.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

agreed. i was looking at other cars yesterday, and a 25K FD is a lot of car for the money... i also find there is a double standard with reliability, you can rebuild your piston engine and its still reliable, but do the same with the rotary, and people make jokes... i bought a miata a few years ago to daily, i really haven't done anything that isn't "normal" but even so i've had more than half the car apart

cloud9

iTrader: (4)

Thoughts on this one? Miles are low but it's more modified than others we've seen on BAT recently.
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1993-mazda-rx-7-104/

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Well, it's low enough miles to be a collector, but the modifications would detract from that. Luckily the mods are mostly skin deep, or reasonable. I don't like to see tweeters in the door cards, but you could get new door cards and the other stuff too. Might be a chance to get a nice car on the cheap, if you want to put some effort in. Mid 30's maybe? Early bidding is strong. It's probably $2k in parts, some hunting, and a few weekends in the garage from being back to bone stock.

Montego

iTrader: (1)

Agreed & I think the owner did himself a dis-service by not swapping OEM components back in. Seriously, one weekend of sort of working on the car would have done it.

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

$37k before fees. Not bad at all.

cloud9

iTrader: (4)

Yeah all things considered not a bad sale; but imagine if it had been stock.. BAT is a funny place. Maybe I'm wrong but I feel like if it was returned to stock and relisted it would go for 60+

For my money I think the best car for sale in the US right now is the '95 R2 recently listed in the classifieds section.

spintriangles

iTrader: (3)

That car was very lightly modded. For the price it is a great drivers car. Now if your into making money you can return it to stock and make some good money

Montego

iTrader: (1)

So far there has only been one car that surpassed the $60K mark and it was an extremely low mileage example. This car was very lightly modded so if anything IMO, it would have probably netted an extra 5K-8K due to the car having sub 20K miles. Now if it was a white 94/95 and stock, then I would definitely say the final price would have reached the 50's.

Edit-
Nailed it!