DaveW

Feeling more firm as the pedal travel increases is normal in the 1st part of the travel. After that pedal force will level out because that is the characteristic of a "Belleville" spring. It will actually go "over-center" with enough stroke.

Unless there is air left in the system, there is some mechanical problem preventing total disengagement. I covered most of those in my 1st post in this thread. Is it possible the disk is binding on the input shaft?

One other one I didn't mention because, IIRC, this is a new installation, is a warped disc or pressure-plate which can require more than normal stroke to disengage.

ecurbd02

iTrader: (7)

I wouldn’t think the disk is binding. Before, during and after torquing down the clutch I was able to easily remove the alignment tool, which seems to mimic the input shaft. Unless there’s still possibility of it binding. Everything is brand new. But I guess I wouldn’t necessarily rule that completely out.

ecurbd02

iTrader: (7)

Just as a follow up for anyone that may be trying the same thing as I am. I did get it to work. For starters I found the hole for the arm that attaches to the clutch pedal and actuates the clutch was ovaled out. Took it to a local fab shop and they fixed that, I installed a new bushing (0727-41-023) and it took a large amount of play out of the clutch pedal. Got the pedal height and free play within spec according to the FSM (height ~7in, free play 0.2-0.5”). I know it’s an aftermarket clutch but I figured it’s best to start at OEM spec and go from there. The bleeding process I accomplished by myself, I’m sure there’s a better way to do it with another set of hands but here’s what I did:

1. Attach MightVac bleeder directly to flare fitting (took bleeder screw off)
2. Bled it until air bubbles stopped (minus a small amount of micro bubbles)
3. With MightVac attached and above height of clutch master, depressed clutch pedal.
4. Bled until air bubble stopped with pedal depressed.
5. With MightyVac attached and above height of clutch master, pulled clutch pedal back up.
6. Bled until air bubbles stopped with clutch pedal up.

i repeated this process probably 10 times, while not letting the reservoir go below about 75% because the top 1/4 of the reservoir is for the clutch and it draws air if i gets below that (ask me how I know lol). Could have stopped earlier most likely but wanted to be 100% sure the air was out due to my previously stated issues. After this, the clutch was still not disengaging. I had a friend depress the clutch pedal all the and I took a panel removal tool (blue plastic pry bar) and wedged it between the discs with the clutch depressed in a few different spots and they came loose. So I’m assuming with it being a completely new install they may have been “stuck” or in a slight bind, but now it’s 100% functioning as it should. Thanks so much to everyone for their input. These forums have been worth more than gold during this whole process.