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Dead clutch slave cylinder...?

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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 01:12 PM
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Dead clutch slave cylinder...?

Ok, so I just got done having my FD towed to my house...was putzing through a parking lot on the way to lunch, and I had noticed that my clutch felt a bit spongy/laggy (best way I can describe it). Almost acted as if it was sticking a bit...

Well I had come to a stop, went to put the car in gear, and she wouldn't go into any gears....Yep, I'm thinking dead slave cylinder. I've had this happen to me before on other cars, just not my RX7. So I can shut the car off and it goes into gear just fine. Starting the car in gear results in the car moving by itself (even if the clutch pedal is to the floor). I can depress the clutch pedal and the pedal comes back just fine.

I have a couple of questions...Who here has had a clutch slave cylinder fail in their FD? Mine has 102k on it, and has more than likely never been changed. Do you think based on my symptoms it's a slave cylinder? Parts store said they could get one for 40 bucks. Now, I'm guessing it's on the tranny, right? If so, where on the tranny? And where do you fill the clutch reservoir, or does it take fluid from the brake master cylinder? Please let me know as I've never changed one on an FD. Thanks in advance!

Lastly, if you do not think it's the slave cylinder, what else could it be? Clutch master cylinder?
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 01:37 PM
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I would start by checking your fluid level. Also, take a peek in the inspection port just to make sure nothing is mechanically wrong with the clutch fork mechanism.

If you fluid level is ok, then it's probably the clutch master cylinder failing and not the slave. Either way, I would replace/rebuild both because if one is a problem the other is probably not far behind.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 02:01 PM
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Thanks, that's kind of what I was thinking. I might as well just do both. Also, I've read some horror stories about clutch forks breaking...I'll have to check that as well, since I do have a heavier clutch.

Btw, where do I check the fluid level? It's not the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir, correct?
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 04:05 PM
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The brake master reservoir holds the fluid for the clutch system as well. The very back of it has a "wall" so if the clutch hydraulics fail it doesn't drain all the fluid out and affect the brakes.

Could also be a leak in the rubber hydraulic hose to the clutch slave cylinder.

Should be a pretty easy problem to spot once you get under the hood.

Dale
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 05:48 PM
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mine broke after 100k. i just decided to order a new one from mazda trix and that solved the problem right away.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 06:08 PM
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Ordered a brand new clutch master and slave cylinder. About to go get under it and make sure it's not a broken fork...Thanks guys!!
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 07:51 PM
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So how exactly do you check the clutch reservoir? I've read that it's "behind" the brake master cylinder reservoir, but I see nothing there. What am I missing??
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 08:11 PM
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It's fed (for lack of a better term) off the BRAKE master cylinder. IIRC, if you look closely at the outside of the plastic brake reservoir, you can kinda see a compartment toward the rear which supplies fluid for the clutch slave. The wall, or divider for the compartment doesn't go all the way to the top. It's there to seperate the two, that way if your clutch line failed, it wouldn't be catastrophic for your brakes too.


****Please excuse a little thread whoring but I've got a related question that might also help the OP.......

Does anyone have tips for bleeding the slave? I've tried and tried but I still get just a little air out of the bleeder in the form of very small bubbles in the clear line of the vacuum pump I have. I've been careful to the keep the fluid level up, but can't seem to get all the air out. My clutch engages toward the top of the pedal which is really annoying. I've always suspected the slave for this. Is this a symtom that suggests changing the slave out too?
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 09:30 PM
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Ok, so i have some updates...the clutch slave cylinder moves just fine when I remove the 2 bolts. However, upon removing the inspection plate from the tranny it really doesnt look like the T.O. bearing moves all that much. How much is it supposed to move? The slave cylinder is moving in and out as expected. It just doesnt seem like the fork is moving all that much...
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 10:37 PM
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I just got my car a few weeks ago and I am having almost the exact same symtoms, sticky pedal and cannot shift out of neutral at times. My master is supposed to be new and slave rebuilt. I am going to try bleeding the lines first.

Let me know what the final diagnosis is
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 11:27 PM
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Soooooooo, how exactly do you tell if the slave cylinder "ball" is inside the socket of the clutch fork? I've read about some instances where the ball has slipped out of the socket, but it all appears to be internal to the transmission. Is there any easier way to see this? I've removed the inspection plate from the transmission, but visibility is limited.
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by TRWeiss1
Soooooooo, how exactly do you tell if the slave cylinder "ball" is inside the socket of the clutch fork? I've read about some instances where the ball has slipped out of the socket
When this happens, the piston of the slave cylinder comes off the fork and all the clutch fluid dumps into the bell housing.
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 08:55 AM
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Ahhh, ok. Thanks Mahjik. So I removed the slave cylinder and had a friend step on the clutch pedal. The piston inside of the slave cylinder seems to be moving just fine, and there's no fluid anywhere that I can see. I can push the piston back in to bring the pedal back up.

However, I'm also thinking that the clutch fork obviously offers A LOT more resistance than my fingers do. So is it possible the slave cylinder is able to move my finger just fine, but doesn't have enough pressure to move the clutch fork sufficiently? I noticed that the clutch fork seems to pull back on the T.O. bearing, but it just doesn't move it that much. The only thing is I don't know how much travel is normal when it's working correctly, since I never had any reason to look at it before.

I'd planned on first replacing the slave and master cylinders first, bleeding the system, and then seeing where I go from there. What's the best way to see if my clutch fork is broken? What course of action would you guys recommend?

Thanks again!
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 10:14 AM
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UPDATE :: I just noticed that when stepping on the clutch pedal (engine on) I hear noise, and I'm feeling vibrations through the clutch pedal while depressed. The noise/vibration goes away when I release the clutch.

Bad pilot bearing?
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 11:42 AM
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Nevermind, problem found. Thanks for the insight guys.

Broken clutch fork.

So where can I buy the upgraded, stronger clutch fork?
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by TRWeiss1
So where can I buy the upgraded, stronger clutch fork?
I am curious where to find one of these also.
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 05:55 PM
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Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda sells them, 888 533 3400. Broken clutch fork is no fun, at the shop we have been replacing most of them if the owner is still using the original one and is running an aftermarket pressure plate.
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 10:41 PM
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From what I understand there IS no "upgraded" or stronger fork, correct? I've dealt with Ray @ Malloy many a time, good guy. If I call him up though, he's just going to sell me a new, OEM fork, right? I actually bought a lightly used one from a forum member here for 40 bucks shipped.
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