zli944

iTrader: (2)

Recently went through and completed a rear caliper rebuild but was wondering about the parking brake nut, specifically the one enclosed in the spring (see below from the FSM).
There's not really a torque spec on it and it's not even really shown in the FSM so:

• Is there a torque spec for this nut?
• How are you supposed to tighten it?
  • I am concerned because when I attempted to tighten it, I think I may have unseated the little connecting link (13 from the FSM). The rod no longer has as much resistance and I'm afraid I may have altered those internals somehow. But also, I'm just not sure where the damn thing could go besides snapping cleanly in half...

It's impossible to test ebrake function without a full bleed so I'm wondering if I'll have to essentially rebuild the calipers again because of unseating that connecting link.


Also, motorcycle master cylinder c-clip pliers are a must for re-installation of the c clip (6) for this job.




Thanks!

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Not many people have gone that deep into the rear calipers. Typically they either work fine or they are rusted shut and need to be replaced.

Seems like there was a thread a while back on rebuilding the rear calipers but there's not a lot of knowledge out there on this topic.

Dale

billyboy

Not sure how well you'll go, if this caliper is already full of fluid, but piston movement and handbrake effectiveness should be readily apparent when you move the handbrake lever by hand - unhooking the spring might assist.

Normally tighten the nut in a vice and blocking the lever that way......I'd advise against using the lever stop as something to torque against, if you're attempting to do this on the car. Can't say I've worried about a torque spec, can't remember if there's anything in the FD manual, but most will have a standard spec for 8.8, (in 8x1.25) in the back somewhere, if nothing is listed - and there's online resources too, if you're worried.

zli944

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the replies. I did the brake bleed and everything seems in order. I should have used a vice grip and tightened the nut while the entire parking brake adjustment rod was out of the caliper.

I’ll keep an eye on it but seems to me like the spring also acts to hold the nut in place.

Ceylon

iTrader: (3)

I wouldn't think you've damaged it unless you've gone really overboard on the tightening. It only needs nipping up.

That circlip down inside the bore is a bit of a faff (Having the right size circlips pliers definitely helps!), otherwise the rebuild process isn't bad. I've rebuilt the rears on all 4 of the FD's I've owned but then again we're more prone to corrosion over here in the UK and it usually gets to the chrome pistons. Always use the oem rebuild kit, I've used some aftermarket ones in the past on other cars and they only come with one grease type and are generally less complete, the oem kit is good.

There is also a seller in china that makes stainless steel pistons for our rear calipers. They pop up on eBay every now and again. I went with one of those for my current FD to prevent any corrosion issues.

Pics as this thread is lacking pictures .