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I was hoping someone would be able to help me (and others..) with this. My high pressure a/c lines on my 94 need changing. I was fortunate enough to find 1 of the pieces but this main piece is unobtainable. I've tried everywhere online and everyone comes up empty. I was hoping someone would be able to help me with this. Either a shop that can remake the line or a company experienced with a/c automotive lines? Any suggestions would be appreciated. The official part is: FD15-61-467A It's specific to all FD's revised in the 94+ years. Cannot use any component prior to 94. Here's what it looks like.
What's wrong with your line? Many times you can get it welded up if you have a hole in it. Any shop that can do TIG welding can weld an aluminum line.
Is the car LHD or RHD? Do you know if you have MANA or Denso AC system?
Dale
According to the diagnostic made by the dealer about 3yrs ago, there's a leak on it. I made it much worse attempting to remove the line from the engine bay. Suffice to say its no longer viable.
I'm pretty sure its a MANA since it is a Canadian version of the car. According to your findings, about 98% its a MANA.
According to the diagnostic made by the dealer about 3yrs ago, there's a leak on it. I made it much worse attempting to remove the line from the engine bay. Suffice to say its no longer viable.
I'm pretty sure its a MANA since it is a Canadian version of the car. According to your findings, about 98% its a MANA.
Did the dealer try replacing the O-rings at all the fittings on that line (both ends and pressure switch) and then re-test the system for leaks? More often than not, leaks are from O-ring seals, not the lines themselves unless they were abused or severely corroded - your lines don't look that bad in the pictures.
Did the dealer try replacing the O-rings at all the fittings on that line (both ends and pressure switch) and then re-test the system for leaks? More often than not, leaks are from O-ring seals, not the lines themselves unless they were abused or severely corroded - your lines don't look that bad in the pictures.
You’re giving the dealer too much credit. Lol
nope, they did the whole dye thing and found it was all over the lines. In truth I’m not that surprised since they are exposed to a fair amount of heat. Not to mention they’re 27yrs old now. When I did take a look at the o-rings, they did look fairly worn, but the lines didn’t look too good either. However, as I mentioned before, I did a number to the line attempting to remove it. It’s really torn up now. I’d feel a lot better if it was just a new line.
I lucked out hard finding the last little line that goes towards the firewall. I was hoping I’d get lucky again, but it wasn’t in the cards.
I'd email Ray Crowe and make sure he can't get that line - if he can't get it, it's not available.
If no dice there, post a WTB on the forum here and on the FB groups and see if you can track down a good used one.
FYI that particular line is a solid tube of aluminum - it doesn't leak, but it can be rubbed through and have a small leak, I've had that happen to my car, it rubbed on the waste gate actuator and made a pinhole. The rubber flexible hoses can, in theory, break down and have seepage through the hose, but I don't think I've seen that happen.
By far the most common leaks seem to be the thin high pressure lines getting minor holes rubbed in them, the O-rings getting hard with age and not sealing, and the Schrader valves in the service ports leaking.
I'd email Ray Crowe and make sure he can't get that line - if he can't get it, it's not available.
If no dice there, post a WTB on the forum here and on the FB groups and see if you can track down a good used one.
FYI that particular line is a solid tube of aluminum - it doesn't leak, but it can be rubbed through and have a small leak, I've had that happen to my car, it rubbed on the waste gate actuator and made a pinhole. The rubber flexible hoses can, in theory, break down and have seepage through the hose, but I don't think I've seen that happen.
By far the most common leaks seem to be the thin high pressure lines getting minor holes rubbed in them, the O-rings getting hard with age and not sealing, and the Schrader valves in the service ports leaking.
Dale
Thanks Dale!
I'll give Ray Crowe a hauler. Just a heads up, I tried everywhere man. Everywhere! About the only places I couldn't really try was right in Japan. I would need someone local to hunt around for this part. As it stands right now, directly from any warehouse or supplier in known databases, they all come up empty. I was very impressed the supplier out in Germany had the little pipe going towards the firewall. That's also a line which every place I call on this side of the pond can't get. They all say it's "retired" or "discontinued". For whatever reason, I was able to find it on the German site. The only other page I could kinda navigate thru was somewhere in Russia. However, they don't ship out of their country. According to their site, they have 10 in stock. No real way to know since I can't order it out..
I'll see what I can do after I get ahold of Ray. I might have to find a local shop and make this part from scratch. Not sure how that's going to go either...
Either way, I'll post up the results..
If anyone else has a good lead though, please don't hesitate to post. I'll be checking the thread.
If the fittings are SAE threads, and it looks like they are because I don't see any notches on the hex nuts, another option if you strike out finding a new/used one is to build a replacement for that line. Can be a DIY job or get a shop to do it if you can't weld.
Vintage Air makes "U bend em" lines in various lengths, diameters & end fitting combos for this purpose. They can be purchased from Summit Racing or JEGS. Measure the length of your existing line with a tape measure to figure out how long of a line you need before bending, then bend it yourself to the shape of the old one with a hand tube bender. I'd confirm the fitting sizes first, but it looks to me like these are a -6 SAE line & fittings; male insert O-ring (MIO) fitting on one end and a female insert O-ring (FIO) fitting on the other. That solves the problem for the line, but you still need to get that switch installed...
For the switch, a shop may be able to carefully salvage your old "T" fitting, and then cut your new Vintage Air line and weld the "T" into that. Or you can buy a new "T" fitting and do the same. Unscrew the switch so you can verify what size/type "T" fitting will be needed - the "T" will need to fit -6 SAE aluminum AC tubing on 2 ends, and have a threaded port that matches your switch's male threaded end, and seals to the port with an O-ring.
A couple of good online retailers for hunting down those kinds of parts are:
If the fittings are SAE threads, and it looks like they are because I don't see any notches on the hex nuts, another option if you strike out finding a new/used one is to build a replacement for that line. Can be a DIY job or get a shop to do it if you can't weld.
Vintage Air makes "U bend em" lines in various lengths, diameters & end fitting combos for this purpose. They can be purchased from Summit Racing or JEGS. Measure the length of your existing line with a tape measure to figure out how long of a line you need before bending, then bend it yourself to the shape of the old one with a hand tube bender. I'd confirm the fitting sizes first, but it looks to me like these are a -6 SAE line & fittings; male insert O-ring (MIO) fitting on one end and a female insert O-ring (FIO) fitting on the other. That solves the problem for the line, but you still need to get that switch installed...
For the switch, a shop may be able to carefully salvage your old "T" fitting, and then cut your new Vintage Air line and weld the "T" into that. Or you can buy a new "T" fitting and do the same. Unscrew the switch so you can verify what size/type "T" fitting will be needed - the "T" will need to fit -6 SAE aluminum AC tubing on 2 ends, and have a threaded port that matches your switch's male threaded end, and seals to the port with an O-ring.
A couple of good online retailers for hunting down those kinds of parts are:
Maybe too late, you might have fixed this already. If you make up a new line replace the factory switch with a trinary switch. As it is now your fans come on when ever the AC switch is on, you don't need the fans unless the pressure in the high side of the system gets too high, that will normally only happen when you are stopped or moving very slowly thus very little air flow thru the condensor.
Trinary switch senses pressure in the system, too low will prevent AC clutch from engaging, once the system is engaged and the pressure rises it will activate the fans as needed, if the pressure gets too high than it will shut the AC clutch done before you damage the rest of the system.
It will help the engine warm up more quickly (drive with AC on and no fans) and if used with a temp sender installed at the exit from the radiator will allow better control of the fans, Your fans are tied to the water temp leaving the radiator not what is going on inside the engine.
03-04-21, 10:07 AM
