I figured I'd throw mine in there... it's still in the middle of the build process.

 

No wonder you sold your old setup . looks sick.
Not sure how i feel about that TB but overall it is great

 

[QUOTE=fendamonky;12476171]^ I'd rather not... that's like an automotive goatse imo...[/QUOTE


Tell you what bud, that's like an automotive lottery win with the amount of business that the piece has brought my way.... took me 5 days of work to basically land all the work for the rest of my days, imagine that.....

 

Thanks for the kind words. Very happy with how everything is coming together. Went crazy with data acquisition as well as making sure heat is further away from the intake manifold. 2 pre turbo wide bands, 2 pre turbo backpressure sensors and k-type sensors everywhere. Pretty sure I figured out what has been causing me issues. Hope your setup is coming along well!

 

How are the pre-turbo WBO2 sensors holding up to the heat and pressure?

 

So far so good. Supposedly using these tall heat sink O2 bungs help with reliability greatly when used pre turbo which is what I am using. I've only gotten 800 break in miles so far so I can't give an honest opinion yet. No issues so far though.

 

its slowly coming together but i also went a little crazy with the whole car for this year, especially with data acquisition.

what were the issues if you don't mind me asking?

 

Here’s my current set-up 👍

 

Right on. I'd definitely be concerned about sensor longevity that close to the engine. I know it's becoming more and more common in motorsports but I figure they have a different maintenance schedule and a funny-money budget!

I'm definitely eager to see how it all works for you! I'm sure your tuning potential is far more exact

 

Long story short is there were a few things going on. One is the AEM Infinity is doing things that is should not be doing. Once I added the individual wide bands, I found that the front rotor was running a full point leaner the the rear under closed loop fueling. Reading in the down pipe was perfect but was really just a average of the 2 rotors. There my also be something going on with the injector and coil phasing if you are using 3 staged injection. There is supposedly a beta firmware that may fix this but they seem to be done with rotary support so the Infinity has to go. Have no trust in it at all at this point.

Another issue was strange EGT behavior. Some of this could be related the ECU issues but I know now it was mainly due to turbine housing heat to the lower intake manifold. I could never confirm that this was a problem and every setup you see has the turbine really close to the front runner. My front EGTs were always quite a bit higher then the rear. The strange thing was during cruising, the front EGT's would continuously climb. On the freeway, It would just keep going up and up. It would not stop. Since I was already using a electric water pump and have access to very talented fabrication, I knew I could get something different together if I was willing to get rid of the factory water pump housing. That's what I did and this EGT behavior is now 100% gone.

 

yeah that is worrisome. only a handful of people i know are running individual widebands, i always figured that if the EGTs are relatievely close in the runners the AFR should follow. its different to see it numerically vs assuming it
I ended up making a different downpipe as it wouldn't work on my car. I had it inconel wrapped along with the intake manifold also. I am also concerned that the intake temps will rise. i will know in a couple of months

 

" front rotor was running a full point leaner the the rear"

"turbine housing heat to the lower intake manifold"

since we generally gather AFR data from the downpipe we are blind as to individual rotor AFRs.

if, for example, we read 11.3 AFR it is entirely possible that the front rotor could be 13 and the rear could be 9.6.

i do recall Cam Worth telling me he was tuning a car on the dyno and it wasn't properly responding. he noted that the turbine housing was close to the front LIM runners so he looked around and came up with a piece of SS. he placed it between the turbine housing and the LIM. the motor without any fuel adj richened more than a full point. that would mean the front rotor richened 2 points.

if you grasp a 30 inch aluminum welding rod at one end and hit it w a torch on the other you will almost immediately not be able to hold the rod. heat transfers thru aluminum that fast. the last time i looked, aluminum was at the top of the materials properties list for heat transfer. this can work for you, as in radiators and intercoolers, or against you as in LIM runners. turbine housings can get cherry red fast. cherry red cast iron is 1800 F.

it is quite a challenge to make an O2 sensor work in the turbo manifold runner. there are 2 alternatives:

read your spark plugs (although this isn't a solution just a confirmation)

just assume you have a problem.

solutions are move the turbo, or use Mica. just like aluminum is at the top of the list as to heat transfer, Mica is at the bottom. turbo blankets help but do not fix the problem, once they heat, they transfer heat. same with other metallic materials. remember what weird material was affixed to the space shuttle? bricks of a material similar to Mica. case closed.



McMaster Carr (highly recommended materials vendor) they sell a 10 X 12 sheet of either 1/8 or 1/4...
https://www.mcmaster.com/mica-sheets/

since this is an engine bay thread... don't locate your boost solenoid on the firewall as in the picture or it will eventually fry... as mine did.

 

Put some love into my baby!

 

 

Just a stock engine bay (except for the intercooler coupler)

 

Beautiful engine bay. Congrats

 

Thank you!

 

Still finishing this build up…I’ll have a huge build thread documented soon! Awesome pics guys!

 

did you stack 2 throttle bodies?? what am i looking at

 

 

That's the weird elite manifold setup. Requires a dinky billet spacer to put the throttle body elbow in the right spot.

 

That’s right. For this build I’m pushing the sequential twins as far as they will possibly go with all supporting mods…custom street port, custom vmount, larger intake manifold / throttle body, custom exhaust manifold, e85, proefi, etc. I want to see what I can push them to.

 

I hope you have some kind of magic twins because the limit is already known. Don't need half of those mods to max them out.

 

I totally understand where you are coming from with that. I’ve done enough research to see about what they are capable of being pushed to the max. I have top of the line bnr’s, and am not afraid to push them past their limits. I initially was going to go single but wanted to go this route first to see what I can do. That’s why I have all the other mods done already. I went the same route with my Supra before building it into its current 1200hp. I gave those tiny twins all they could handle too…lol. I don’t want to take away from the thread so I’ll go into detail in my build thread when I get it going. Thanks for the replies.

 

I have a feeling that when you said "twins" TwinCharged thought you had stock turbos (I know I did). Because even though technically the BRN's are twins, just about everyone calls them BNR's to make the distinction between the stock hitachi turbos aka "twins". So you aren't wrong but its hard to change people's terminology once it has set in. But in any case, BNR's can handle a lot more than the stockers and so your build makes total sense.

Now are you running the BRN's sequentially or no-seq?