Today I teared it all down. Ripped off the UIM, coilpack, etc.

I cannot take the rats nest out. the bolt on top closest to the firewall stripped. I understand it is still possible to change the hoses w/ the rats nest on.

So far, the hoses are BRITTLE. The rubber characterics of these hoses are no longer rubber. They crack with EASE. Broke a checkvalve and solenoid nipple so far. The car is a 1994 so I'm guessing its normal! I'm having a really hard time pulling hoses off the metal nipples on the rats nest and UIM though I have given up since its gettin late, and COLD.

I have no garage!

Questions I have, are all the one way check valves the same in the car? if so what's the part #? In the pics I pointed green arrows to the check valve that died so far. And in one of the pics, the arrows are pointing at one of the plastic solenoids that broke. Part #?

Well here are some pics so far. Any tips greatly appreciated.

busted check valve




busted check valve again


busted solenoid & the stripped head


On the rats nest.. All the nipples on top are metal, now whats under are the solenoids and all plastic? It is extremely hard to get this done but i'm going to do it one by one... Or should I just bang something out and get the rats nest onto my kitchen table?

Kevin

 

Ahh, that brings me back. When I stripped all the heads on the screws holding on the rats nest, I used vice grips to get them off. Good luck and don't break any nipples!

 

Do your self a favor, find a way to get the rats nest out before working on the hoses. You cannot get the right leverage and angle to remove the hardened hoses while it's in the car (it's hard enough with it out of the car). Use a flame source that can be focussed, like a wind resistent lighter. The heat will soften the hoses so you can cut them off with an exacto knife.
If you need any replacement check valves or solenoids, I have some.

 

well, first of all, you are trying to take off the wrong screws. The ones you want to take off are on the front of the solenoid rack(2) right behind the alternator, and (2) behind the rack(facing the firewall). If that is too hard to take off, you can also remove the whole solenoid rack, and the hard fuel lines. There are 2 or 3 12mm bolts that fasten it to the top of the engine. I find it easier to remove the whole thing and do the hose job on the table, then put it back in. besides, its almost impossible to change the hoses that go to the oil squirters, and the little one that attaches to the lower intake manifold, also the fuel pressure regulator. The hose job isnt that bad(ive done 5), just take your time. there are tons of Hose job how tos on this forum, just search for them.

 

twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............twist dont pull............

 

P.S you couldnt pay me enough to EVER do that job again...

















well..... you could.... but it would be expensive!

 

Use a butane lighter to heat up the ends up the hose before you remove them. It will make them soft enough to twist without breaking. If you want extra insurance, slit the end of the hose with a razor blade after you heat it up.

Sonny

 

I haven’t changed my vacuum hoses, so I may be full of it. Try carefully slitting the hoses with a small knife. Don’t cut into or scratch the nipple. You should then be able to peal the hose off the nipple. Let me know if it works.

 

DON'T USE SILICONE. There is enough talk out there of silicone not holding up to high heat or petroleum exposure. I did a lot of research on this topic, and eventually replaced my hoses with Goodyear 5/32" and 7/32" vacuum line. These lines are fluorinated to prevent breakdown from petroleum exposure, and are thick enough to resist the heat of the rotary. I think the lines are actually listed as windshield wiper fluid line. I bought a roll of each from a local auto parts shop. I'm pretty sure this is the same line that Pettit uses.

BTW, use a razor blade to cut the lines...saves many headaches. Also, change your FPD while you have all that crap off, and consider upgrading/cleaning your injectors.

stew

 

Man that brings back memories. I'm glad that I only have 7 lines now.

 

Thanks for all the input guys. I have been using an exacto knife to 'try' to slit the hoses. The hoses are WAY hard its almost impossible to penetrate with the knife. and yes I see it to be ALMOST impossible to take most of the hard to reach hoses since they are soooooooooooooooooooooooo hard. I will try to take the rack off nest time I head out there I don't wanna go near the car anymore =o[

I'm a little loss though it looks like a big job to put it all back together. It was almost fun tearing it apart! I also have a bunch of fuel stuff laying around to be put in..

K2RD secondary fuel rail
(2) 1600cc fuel injectors
aeromotive fpr

I guess I should be installing those while I'm there? but I have no glue what to do, I initially bought that stuff for my friend to install but he's a busy guy. Can anyone enlighten me on that task?

littlemilla: I'll try using vice grips for that stripped screw
TrexThe3rd: I'll take you up on that when I get everything out of the car and count the broken parts! =o[
oakridgerx7: wow didn't know that, I have a shop manual but it's so confusing I'm not really sure what I'm looking at
RX7Wishing: I havn't twisted nor pulled, my friend broke both of those... and I wouldn't do this job again either...

 

Update:

I stripped 2 philips screws that hold the rats nest down.. One infront behind the alternator, one facing the firewall aka THE PITA one. But I got advice from NYT on the #rx7 channel on EFNet to use craftsman Bolt-Out remover. It basically removes the bolts that got rounded/stripped off. One of my best investments ever. Saved me hours of work as far as im concerned. Part # is 9-52161 Craftsman® Bolt-Out™ Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set $19.99

 

I did the same thing! When I replaced the rats nest I used socket head cap screws with locks washers in place of the phillips screws.

Here's a pic of the job almost complete. BTW- I ordered all new check valves from Ray at Malloy (better safe than sorry).

Good Luck.

 

You can get a complete oem replacement kit including the silinoids from mazdaformance.

The one with he green arrows, I used plastic car model glue to repair it.

I don't recomend silicone on the lines that you unplug to remove the intake manifolds, unless maybe if you have the special tool to pull them off but I haven't tried that tool.

Also the lines to the oil injectors, fpd, and can't remember the others shouldn't be silicone.

 

Here you go http://www.3rdgenrx7.com/keithshowto.htm

 

how do i get the fuel rail and all that junk when the nest is there in the way?

 

I cut all the brittle lines that were to be replaced anyway. That way the removal of the old hoses from the nipples can be done individually, away from the engine compartment.
As I did this I drew a little map with notes to say what came from where. Then, when its time to put it all back you have your own notes to go along with your diagrams you should've printed up.

 

Ah, one of my jobs to do over the winter....

Guess I should be looking forward to it :-S

 

Same here, going to do the whole hose job and FPD and pull my injectors to get cleaned.

 

Yep, sounds like my plan, might polybush the car while I'm at it too - definately not going to be a quiet winter break

 

I did it this past spring in 2 days, 3-4 hours each. It really isnt too bad, my suggestions are
1) If something looks like it will be a pain in the *** remove it from the engine before working on it. I discovered it is worth spending the extra 5 minutes removing something than to spend an extra hour trying to work around it.
2) To remove old hoses the more slices you cut the easier it willl be to get off. You dont need to cut all the way through on the first cut. If repeating the cut 4-5 times can possibly save you a solenoid it was worth the extra time. After making all your cuts, peel back the hose from the nipple, dont twist or pull until it is no longer seized to the nipple.
3) replace one hose at a time. Even with the diagram there are so many in there it will take a month to redo the routing if you were to pull them all at once.


I feel for you guys working outside in the cold. I complain when I have to work on my car outside and it is 110, but I remember living in CO how much worse it is working outside when your fingers get numb and then start to hurt from the cold.

 

I'm glad someone's engine bay looks nastier than mine did when I first started taking it apart. (no offense).

 

heh none taken, how should i clean it? simply green doesnt seem to do a good job. maybe im not using the right material to wipe

 

While you're in there, you can simplify things a little by eliminating the EGR, double-throttle control, and fuel pressure regulator solenoids. This is about as "simple" as you can go and still pass emissions. I did this and it removed enough hoses/check valves to make a noticeable difference.

The full on "simplified sequential" eliminates a lot more, but it requires removal of the air pump and all of the associated solenoids. You will not pass smog without an air pump.

Sonny

 

These questions can probably be answered using the search function, but to keep this thread as informative as possible to others looking to do the job.........

What are the benefits of removing the EGR, Double throttle, and FPR solenoids?