incubuseva

iTrader: (13)

Sorry but I have no time to search. Limited time on the net.

Anywho, My clutch is pretty messed up. When I press it, the part before it engages is super limp, then the clutch will engage. Sometimes I can pump it a few times and it will feel like it should. Also, the pedal goes to the floor + will stay there until I pull it back up with my foot.

NOW, before you start spewing answers (I know it happens all the time) nothing is leaking. The fluid level is the same as it always has been. I've checked multiple times.


What could my problem be? It's not slipping.


91 TII, ACT 6 puck sprung, with heavy duty pressure plate, 7 # fly wheel.


Thanks

farberio

iTrader: (7)

Your hydraulics are losing pressure, replace your master and slave cylinder. Its also a good time to replace your clutch line as well.

Handful

iTrader: (1)

Master Cylinder is leaking back into the resrvoir. Your not gonna have a leak. Break fluid just leaks past the piston. Replace your Clutch master cylinder, and you will be golden. Slave cylinder should be fine, as long as you don't have a leak. The reason why you can pump it up, is because you get enough pressure to hold disengage the clutch before it bleeds back around the piston. check out the pic.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

His slave will be fine for maybe 2 months, then the new pressure of the master will kill it. Its better to replace both at one time.

CompuBob

if you don't have parts and need to drive the car you might be able to get it temporarily working for a while with a thicker fluid, suck some fluid out and replace it with something thicker like Lucas oil. But if it works dont just forget about it.. replace the master.. I've had luck doing this with bad slave cylinders, should work with a bad master.

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

Yes, what everyone has said collaborated.. sorta.. You'll need to replace BOTH. It's most likely your master bleeding past the piston seal back into your resovior. Replace that then your slave will most likely act up. Get a rebuild kit for both and a new line and be done with it. or fix one.. then weeks or months (if your lucky) fix the other... then the other.

~Mike..........

Handful

iTrader: (1)

Rebuild kits tend to fail even faster. Dont recommend rebuilding. Chances are the Master Cylinder has a scored bore. A new master cylinder is only like 60-80 bucks. Cheaper to buy a new one.

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

I agree^ notice I said replace before I said re-build.. it depends how broke/cheap you are....
If you do rebuild, hone the bores with at least a piece of scotchbrite in a cross-hatch pattern if there is no deep scores in it.
~Mike..........

ForsakenRX7

True, but consider this. In the time it takes to remove and rebuild the original, by paying a little more you can save time and get more longevity out of your master cylinder. Same goes with the slave cylinder. Its a situation where being cheaper is not better any way you look at it. I generally never recommend rebuilding for those reasons.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

As they say, "The cheap ends up expensive"

ForsakenRX7

I've actually never heard that exact phrase but yea, exactly.

I also agree in replacing both the master and slave at the same time. While your at it get yourself a little cheap insurance of a steel braided clutch line. Its a formula for a clutch hydraulic system you should never have to think about for awhile. Don't be cheap. Do it right once.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

Too bad you didn't search. You'd have come up with a full writeup:

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...56&postcount=4