|2UNkazeFC

To make this fast, there's fluid in the clutch reservoir. The problem is when I push in my clutch, the clutch wont disengage. I used to get this problem when I didn't have fluid in there. I'd put in some fluid then pump the clutch pedal and it would work just fine. All springy and what not. After while I noticed I could push the clutch in like half way and my car wouldn't even notice I was pushing in my clutch. Now the clutch just sits at the floor when I push it in. I had to drive it home like 30 miles and every time I stopped I my car would die, I'd have to put it back into first, and turn the key until the car moved again with my clutch at the floor. Once the car started moving I could shift, but each time I wanted the pedal back up, I had to use my foot to get it off the ground. For a while I noticed my car was even hard to start. It would start and just die right away. I don't know if this has anything to do with my clutch dying or not, but it got way more frequent as my clutch died or w.e.

I'm not really sure what the problem is, I don't know if my clutch is dead or something like that. I'd like to get an idea before I go and drop money to get new stuffs. I'm a poor college student and all my money counts. I'd get rid of the car... but I love it to much and I always make sacrifices for it (that I wont even make for the Mrs.).

I've been reading about these Exedy kits found on ebay. I'm wondering if it's worth my buying. Sometimes I go up to the mountains with my friends, but I'm not up there driving all super nuts or anything. I just want to know if it's worth me buying.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

A bad pilot bearing will not allow you to shift, but it won't cause the pedal to stay on the floor. so chances are it's the hydraulics, especially if the system is leaking fluid. Have someone step on the cluctch pedal while you see if the clutch rod under the car is moving. If it's not, best to replace all the hydraulics, clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder along with the hose, about $120 from Mazdatrix, but if you purchase the least expensive parts from RockAuto, the total will be about $60.

afpreppie04

iTrader: (5)

I had the exact opposite happen to me in my old Miata, the pedal would stick to the floor for a while and I'd have to pull it back with my foot. Eventually it just stayed down there and any gas in any gear would just rev it. Turned out to be the slave cylinder.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

The slave and the master cylinder usually go bad at about the same time.
Replace both cylinders and the hose at the same time. It'll cost about $100 and take maybe an hour or two.

Master is what you pour brake fluid into.
Follow the hard pipeline that comes from it to the hose. Follow the hose down to the slave. It's bolted to the transmission.

Tools needed:
12mm socket and ratchet. Extensions and a Universal joint will also help.
10mm wrench (Preferably flare line style, but open end will work.)
17mm wrench.
8mm wrench (for bleeding the clutch)

Slave comes out with two 12mm head bolts.
PROTIPS:
Remove the oil filter to get at it easier.
Add a dab of grease to the tip of the plunger that's sticking out of the cylinder where it attaches to the clutch fork. This will prevent squeaking from under the car when you push the clutch pedal.

The master is held on with two nuts inside the car. Lay down with your head where the pedals are. (It may help to take out the seat or just lay in the seat with your feet up on the headrest.)
PROTIP:
See the push rod that attaches to the pedal? You can adjust the length of it by loosening the nut on it and turning the rod itself. This will change the pedal height where the clutch engages and disengages.

The hose end is 17mm Hold the hose and use the line wrench to remove the hard line from the hose. Done deal.


To bleed the clutch, it helps to have an assistant. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with fluid and push the pedal to the floor slowly.

Once the pedal is on the floor, have the assistant loosen the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder. air will come out. After the air has come out, have them tighten the screw.

Let the pedal up slowly and push it back to the floor. Have the assistant loosen that screw again.

Repeat this process and fluid will start coming out of the bleed screw along with air bubbles... Keep on doing this until no more air bubbles come out.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

And, since I'm linking this to a whole bunch of people who DIDN'T search, I have to add a minor disclaimer to my second PROTIP...

When adjusting the clutch, if the rod is too far forward, you can put extra wear and tear on your throwout bearing.

Have an assistant look at the clutch slave cylinder. You should be able to slightly touch the clutch pedal and they should not see it move. Once you push the clutch pedal down a little ways, then they should see it move.

|2UNkazeFC

I haven't yet had the chance to look in to anything that you guys recommend. I've had people come to my house and look at it and I still get like "20" different responses. Anyway, I don't know if I mentioned earlier in my post because I'm to lazy to go back up and read. But I was able to push the pedal like half way down before it went out before any type of clutch engagement began.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

What other responses have you gotten?

Don49

iTrader: (3)

This isn't rocket science. Listen to what Pele wrote. There is almost zero chance it is anything other than your clutch master and/or slave cylinder. Buy the parts, bleed it properly and you're good to go.

RXnos1200

iTrader: (24)

^^^^^ agreed. hydraulic issue Good stuff Pele! !!!!!!

Have a buddy step on the clutch while YOU are watching the slave. That clutch fork to the slave should move at least 1.25" out +.......

|2UNkazeFC

Is that how I measure the height of the pedal as well?

|2UNkazeFC

(Sorry for the double post) Pele, I've been told it was my pressure plate, differential (the pounding sound when I was shifting), I've been told me clutch is blown. These are just some of the few, at point I was even told to change my motor mounts (which to me didn't make a lick of sense). Anyway, I'm buying the slave and master cylinders this month so I'm going to go head and bleed the system. Pele you did a good job of explaining it, is there any way you could give me some pictures of the places? I'm not really a mechanic per say and I can't find an FSM anywhere. If you can link me to one, I'll go head and use it. Actually, if anyone can link me to an FSM for my FC I'd be really grateful. The last one I had didn't even tell me which spark plug went in which socket. I mean I did the tune-up just fine and got them in the right places, but I had help from MaczPayne. Stupid thing couldn't even tell me which spot to put lead and trail plugs.