wtf is this thing?
12-13-04, 09:22 PM
#3
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Coolant temperature sensor. Not for the gauge, but the input for the ECU. Replace the sensor as soon as possible, as the ECU will be reading a default temperature, yielding less fuel economy and power.
12-13-04, 09:25 PM
#4
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water thermal/temp sensor, ECU circuit. The gauge temp sensor is on a dif circuit. IIRC The defualt for the sensor will run you rich and keep you from going closed loop, both causing excessive gas use.
12-13-04, 09:41 PM
#7
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Just better running, not much power? Just smoother, easier to start. They are 50 bucks from mazda (Canadian) is what i paid...
Just take the green connector off. Throw a wrench on there, unscrew it. Pull it out, watch out coolant will pour out. Replace with a new one, put the connector back on and your good to go!
Evan
Just take the green connector off. Throw a wrench on there, unscrew it. Pull it out, watch out coolant will pour out. Replace with a new one, put the connector back on and your good to go!
Evan
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12-13-04, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Funkspectrum
Temp Thermoswitch. I need one too! Fortunately BlueTII came through and sold me one of his extras! 
12-13-04, 09:51 PM
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Check the mazdatrix site section O ,I think it is listed at about $33 plus s/h. should just screw in , make sure engine is cold and drain a little coolant from the bottom of the radiator so it does not run out everywhere.
12-13-04, 10:13 PM
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my jack and **** are at a friends house up island here.. so i guess i could just use a turkey baister and pump some out... anyways.. thats great..
will i feel a difference in my car when i replace it with a new one?
what will be the outcome of leaving it in the position its in???
im trying to figure out why this part is signifigant to the drivability of the car???
thanks!
will i feel a difference in my car when i replace it with a new one?
what will be the outcome of leaving it in the position its in???
im trying to figure out why this part is signifigant to the drivability of the car???
thanks!
12-13-04, 10:32 PM
#14
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Originally Posted by foild
im trying to figure out why this part is signifigant to the drivability of the car???
thanks!
thanks!
With no ability for the engine to detect what temperature the engine is at, the ECU defaults to a "safe" setting to prevent engine damage, that consequently loweres overall performance.
12-13-04, 10:36 PM
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hate to be a seller, but i have a WATER THERMOSENSOR FOR SALE. brand new. $40; same as it should be from the dealer. i found i didn't need it. brand new in box. PM me if interested.
ps; didnt see if anyone mentioned, the fail-safe (on S5s anyway) is that the ecu reads 176 degrees water temp. it causes bad hesitations when cold.
ps; didnt see if anyone mentioned, the fail-safe (on S5s anyway) is that the ecu reads 176 degrees water temp. it causes bad hesitations when cold.
12-13-04, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by scathcart
Fuel maps are dependent on engine temperature.
With no ability for the engine to detect what temperature the engine is at, the ECU defaults to a "safe" setting to prevent engine damage, that consequently loweres overall performance.
With no ability for the engine to detect what temperature the engine is at, the ECU defaults to a "safe" setting to prevent engine damage, that consequently loweres overall performance.
12-13-04, 11:21 PM
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scathgart - im sure it is not tainting my readings.
1 - when people go to the dyno, they dont always have a 02 sensor bung welded in... so they put a tailpipe sniffer... if the air tube or whatever made a difference, every s4 that worked the stock way for 6 port actuation that went to the dyno would be given untrue AFR's
it seems like my readings are realistic also... before i tuned my car, i never ever had a backfire... ever. now, it does occasionally, showing that it is running richer..
1 - when people go to the dyno, they dont always have a 02 sensor bung welded in... so they put a tailpipe sniffer... if the air tube or whatever made a difference, every s4 that worked the stock way for 6 port actuation that went to the dyno would be given untrue AFR's
it seems like my readings are realistic also... before i tuned my car, i never ever had a backfire... ever. now, it does occasionally, showing that it is running richer..
12-13-04, 11:28 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by foild
scathgart - im sure it is not tainting my readings.
1 - when people go to the dyno, they dont always have a 02 sensor bung welded in... so they put a tailpipe sniffer... if the air tube or whatever made a difference, every s4 that worked the stock way for 6 port actuation that went to the dyno would be given untrue AFR's
it seems like my readings are realistic also... before i tuned my car, i never ever had a backfire... ever. now, it does occasionally, showing that it is running richer..
1 - when people go to the dyno, they dont always have a 02 sensor bung welded in... so they put a tailpipe sniffer... if the air tube or whatever made a difference, every s4 that worked the stock way for 6 port actuation that went to the dyno would be given untrue AFR's
it seems like my readings are realistic also... before i tuned my car, i never ever had a backfire... ever. now, it does occasionally, showing that it is running richer..
Lastly, you don't need the air pump installed on S4's for stock auxilary port actuation... it makes no difference; they are opened by exhaust back pressure, not air pump pressure.
What AFR's did you tune your car to?
Last edited by scathcart; 12-13-04 at 11:30 PM.
12-14-04, 12:37 PM
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is this a "job that can wait till my next paycheck (next week) or is it a ASAP job????
i have no idea how long its been like this... but if it may improve my cars drivability i will do it for sure before i get my rebuild in 3 weeks
i have no idea how long its been like this... but if it may improve my cars drivability i will do it for sure before i get my rebuild in 3 weeks