wtf is this thing?
Originally Posted by Kenteth
Its not a switch, just a sensor for ECU fuel curves. The ECU does interpret a switch @ 220*f for the ac fan, but the sensor itself is not a switch.
Yes...you're right.
casio isn't here.
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,332
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From: Greenpoint, Brooklyn
Originally Posted by foild
is this a "job that can wait till my next paycheck (next week) or is it a ASAP job????
i have no idea how long its been like this... but if it may improve my cars drivability i will do it for sure before i get my rebuild in 3 weeks
i have no idea how long its been like this... but if it may improve my cars drivability i will do it for sure before i get my rebuild in 3 weeks
first, check the ecu plug to see if the sensor is sending a signal. if its a straight 5v, the sensor isn't working. i forget the spec right now, but i can get it to you. if youre getting a voltage (possibly an alternating voltage as engine temp rises, its likely the sensor is good. if you're getting the 5v (or 4.99 or something in that very close area), take off your alternator and remove the plug. make sure the connection is good. look inside the plug at the connectors to make sure they haven't been pushed back. i drove with mine plugged in (with a connector not touching, therefore an open signal and not working) for quite some time. finally bought the sensor, started to fix the problem and realized the problem was simple.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 420
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From: BC, Canada
well, my problem isn't at the connector.. its like it is broken @ the housing.... i can pull a little shaft right out, and move it freely back and forth... the connector is stil connected and intact...
HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 27
From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Originally Posted by foild
is this a "job that can wait till my next paycheck (next week) or is it a ASAP job????
i have no idea how long its been like this... but if it may improve my cars drivability i will do it for sure before i get my rebuild in 3 weeks
i have no idea how long its been like this... but if it may improve my cars drivability i will do it for sure before i get my rebuild in 3 weeks
If your considering removing the airpump.......then also consider that your water pump belt will then slip at high rpms and you'll be needing to buy a double pulley for the water pump.
The air from the airpump mostly goes to the exaust ports NOT that split air pipe to the catalytic converter. It enters the exaust ports from a hole just inside the rotor housing/ exaust header flange mating point. That explains why a wideband will show in the 14afr at idle when the mixture is really closer to 13afr.
If you take off the electrical plug from the Relief Solenoid (Blue), then the air pump air will not go to the exaust ports but will dump overboard into the silencer in the right front fender area. On a stock car this happens when the engine is rev'd over 3500 rpm, and no air will go to the exaust ports. There are other times the Relief Solenoid dumps the air overboard. It's not limited to just 3800rpm. Too many to mention.
Last edited by HAILERS; Dec 14, 2004 at 01:21 PM.
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 420
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From: BC, Canada
well, i tuned my car for WOT, so i should be getting correct AFR's??
so.. if i dont want to remove my airpump, but i want to have correct AFR readings below 3500 rpm, i can unplug the releif solenoid??? --- will this effect driving below 3500 rpm???
maybe you could give me a rundown on how i should do this.. im fairly new @ all this
so.. if i dont want to remove my airpump, but i want to have correct AFR readings below 3500 rpm, i can unplug the releif solenoid??? --- will this effect driving below 3500 rpm???
maybe you could give me a rundown on how i should do this.. im fairly new @ all this
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