Okay so here is the diagnosis....

Alright, well I have a S5 N/A FC.
It runs great in the morning going to class and stuff, but after a 30 minute drive or so it'll smell hot. idk. ...thats not the problem.

anyways!

It drives fine from a cold start. but if im driving around or something for a while it does the 3800 RPM hessitation. but like, its not at 3800 RPMs its like at 2800. and then when it does this or at a random time the Tach will drop to zero, and the check engine light will come on...but the car is still running.

Its making me so mad!
I wanna know whats wrong with it. Like if it is a simple fuse, or if i have to clean the grounds and re ground it?

....another thing. I want to go straight pipes but the ACV or whatever it is that goes to the cat. but ive read that it is required for the 5th and 6th ports to open. Is there a simple way to remove this and not have this problem?

Im just tired of this freaking fuel cut gayness issue i have.
someone help please.

Thanks,
Nick

 

You sure the oil metering pump didn't die and your car is throwing a code for the OMP which is causing it to go into limp mode???? Pull the codes by grounding the single green pin connector next to the battery and count the blinks on the check engine light (search is your friend). If it is the OMP that died, if you keep driving the car like this you are guaranteed a bad engine soon.

On an s5, you need to keep the ACV and all emissions to have functioning 5/6th ports. Unlike the s4 though, you can modify the exhaust all you want and it will still function as long as you keep the previous said items.

 

no it hasnt gone bad.
i think its a fuse or something.

 

Fuses dont crap out and then randomly come back on..

If your tach is dying, that could be indicative of the trailing coil. If your CEL is coming on and you are losing power you may have an OMP problem.

Do what you were told to and pull the codes already...

 

the check engine light only comes on when the tach goes off, and i dont lose power when this happens.

i lose power after i have gone past 6-7 RPM's
then it will cut out and be gay.

 

Well, lucky thing the S5s store codes.

 

http://www.banzai-racing.com/FD&S5_error_codes.htm

 

Seriously? Every car looses power that high up in the powerband...cause its the end of the powerband where the torque drops off. I would definitely say check the operation of the trailing coils. Sounds like a possible misfire due to coil.

 

no i mean, after you go past it, and then let off it will cut out.

...okay so i rev it up to 6000 RPMs, and let off, then i try and rev it up to 6000 again, it will cut off at 3000.

 

well i looked it up and the code says its the igniting coil (trailing side)

and it says "Ignition Coil Connection, B/W Terminal Voltage of Coil, Wiring from Coil to ECU, Coil"

any suggestions?
so check the plugs, and the wiring first? then see if its the ignitors?

 

Remove the electrical connectors to the coil and clean them up and perhaps use a bit of dielectric grease. If that doesn't do the trick then test the coil via an ohm test and compare to spec. You could also check the wires from the ECU to the coil (L/Y, BR/Y and L/G) via a continuity test. Also, make sure the coil is mounted to the fender properly and not loose. Is this the car that you put up for sale?

 

oh alright.
thanks.


and nope, not the car up for sale.

this car is my project/**** me off car.
haha.

 

okay guys im having the same problem and i have an s5 na no emmissions stright pipe tuarus fan ran with a 30 amp relay rev the **** out of it to about 6000rpms and tack will drop.CEL will pop up trailing coil yah totally bypassed that **** stright from ecu and same think been giving me the run around for a bit and recently swapped 6 coils 4 CAS and batt and alt COMFUSED!!