Would you do this?
#1
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Would you do this?
Would you just replace a rear coolant seal, if thats all thats really faulty.
My friend is taking a old GXL I have had, it has a rear seal leaking..if all else looks good, except the seal. Would you replace anything else while down in it? like rear main seal.? intake gaskets, yes and exhaust..
what about all the seals in rear iron, without removing the rotor itself? unless it the front coolant seal? not front rotor, its fine.
My friend is taking a old GXL I have had, it has a rear seal leaking..if all else looks good, except the seal. Would you replace anything else while down in it? like rear main seal.? intake gaskets, yes and exhaust..
what about all the seals in rear iron, without removing the rotor itself? unless it the front coolant seal? not front rotor, its fine.
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would I do this..NO...why tear it all down put in One seal(sounds like that is what you are doing) then slap it all together again.You are just Doing it "half assed"..Donuts To Dollars,you put in that Seal,then another OLD seal will go.You will sit there and Curse,and wonder why you didn't Go all the way and replace them while you had the engine out....Get in there,get your hands Dirty,Learn about your engine and replace all the Seals.
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My friend is taking a old GXL I have had, it has a rear seal leaking..if all else looks good, except the seal. Would you replace anything else while down in it? like rear main seal.? intake gaskets, yes and exhaust..
what about all the seals in rear iron, without removing the rotor itself? unless it the front coolant seal? not front rotor, its fine.
what about all the seals in rear iron, without removing the rotor itself? unless it the front coolant seal? not front rotor, its fine.
So now you've spent the time to remove the engine, pull half of it apart, do a half assed repair and put it back together. But in releasing the tension bolts you've also damaged another o-ring and end up with a water leak somewhere else a few weeks later...
Long story short, it's not worth it.
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Easy guys, damn beat the **** outta me..
I am giving my old runing GXL to this kid..yes he is 19..It runs, however, the real issue is his amount of money, as I offered to pull the engine and do the rebuild myself or swap out to T2. But his money is to tight and I was wondering if a $150 set of o'rings and seals/gaskets would get it running, it didn't matter if it was half assed..but I have a idea that it would last quite a while if I replaced those faulty seals, being the car runs great..well being money is tight, we really don't have much of a choice as we haven't found how to grow money yet.
Perhaps I can get some half assed advice on doing a PR rebuild?
I am giving my old runing GXL to this kid..yes he is 19..It runs, however, the real issue is his amount of money, as I offered to pull the engine and do the rebuild myself or swap out to T2. But his money is to tight and I was wondering if a $150 set of o'rings and seals/gaskets would get it running, it didn't matter if it was half assed..but I have a idea that it would last quite a while if I replaced those faulty seals, being the car runs great..well being money is tight, we really don't have much of a choice as we haven't found how to grow money yet.
Perhaps I can get some half assed advice on doing a PR rebuild?
#7
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Sounds like this kid can't afford the car. If he can't put down $600 for a complete soft seal kit, he won't be able to afford insurance, fuel and all the associated costs of running a 20+ year old sports car. This is probably not what you or he want to hear.
You could do a half rebuild. It's been done. But don't expect it to work for the long term. Keep in mind that while rear half of the engine is removed you still need to clean the housing mating surfaces so the new seals seat. Honestly a few months of saving some money to buy the full gasket kit is the best way to to. That way the labour of engine removal and reinstallation will actually accomplish something. Clamping the engine should keep all the other seals from being disturbed. Should. You may also find a replacement rear iron is necessary, and if one coolant o-ring has failed, the others aren't far behind.
You could do a half rebuild. It's been done. But don't expect it to work for the long term. Keep in mind that while rear half of the engine is removed you still need to clean the housing mating surfaces so the new seals seat. Honestly a few months of saving some money to buy the full gasket kit is the best way to to. That way the labour of engine removal and reinstallation will actually accomplish something. Clamping the engine should keep all the other seals from being disturbed. Should. You may also find a replacement rear iron is necessary, and if one coolant o-ring has failed, the others aren't far behind.
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#8
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I agree 100%. He should do a complete rebuild.
I have tried to talk him outta doing this the cheap way, I agree about his situation, he is not aware of the amount up keep to get this old RX running good again and to keep it that way.
I guess the best way around this is to disassembly and see what damage is done inside. Then tackle the damage once its known.
Question: Is Mazdatrix the cheapest around for the soft seals, etc?
I have tried to talk him outta doing this the cheap way, I agree about his situation, he is not aware of the amount up keep to get this old RX running good again and to keep it that way.
I guess the best way around this is to disassembly and see what damage is done inside. Then tackle the damage once its known.
Question: Is Mazdatrix the cheapest around for the soft seals, etc?
#9
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Replace everything since you're in there already... I replaced my water seals with bronze seals instead of the stock metal seals which corrode much much faster...