1988 SE, A/T. 114k miles

Some problems I have noticed:
3800Rpm Hesitation
Dash lights stopped working
possibly flooded
wipers are stuck on slow
doesnt turn over when i ignite sometimes
runs horribly rich
fluctuating rpm, stalls out
consumes gas like its free



How much $$ would it cost me to fix these problems? Should I drop the bitch like its hot?

Is a transmission swap hard for these cars? Im a ******* newb, somebody shoot me in the face

 

-There's a writeup for the 3800 RPM hesitation
-could be your headlight switch
-does it start? If not search for unflooding procedure.
-wiper switch is broke
-does it click?
-clean injectors. check TPS/AFM
-check TPS/AFM
-check TPS/AFM

-also do a complete tune-up if you havn't already.

it depends. Check your sensors to see if they are within spec.

Complete Auto---->Manual tranny swap guide:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/complete-automatic-manual-conversion-write-up-201073/

 

John Hine Mazda tried to get us to install a new ECU, i wasnt paying 800 bucks for that ****, and like i said im a newb, we got a new TPS installed, a new O2 sensor, should i get the AFM checked at the dealer or is there a way for me to check it myself?

at times when i try to ignite, it will click, but after a couple times it will start up. it still does this even after i replaced the starter

 

When you got the TPS installed, was it calibrated? If not search for TPS calibration. Get the FSM, and/or try searching how to check the AFM

 

im too retarded for rotary. this **** is just way too complicated

 

i forgot to mention the P/S problem as well.

 

You should probably blame these problems on the previous owner. Especially since a rotary engine is WAY less complicated than a piston engine.

 

short answer NO. A NA automatic is worthless.

 

wanna get rid of it? PM me

 

Stay away from John Hine Mazda as if your life depended on it. They are the worst dealer in the whole Southern CA area for working on rotary powered cars.

I wouldn't even buy parts from them as the are so clueless. The will rip you off so bad it is scary. You know once they told me that I needed a new battery because my back up light switch was bad and they didn't want to replace it under warrenty.

 

bad grounds... fix the grounds
bad light switch, Please read the FAQ for FC sticky thread before posting. Also I normally stock replacement rebuilt switchs on my website.
Probably low compression. what is the compression?? To unflood please read the FAQ for Fc sticky thread at the top of this section.
bad wiper switch, Again, please read the FAQ for FC sticky thread before posting. Also I normally stock replacement rebuilt switchs on my website.
again probably bad compression. what is the compression???
why do you think so??
bad TPS adjustment, bad BAC, VAC leak
define... normal driving should result in 15-18 MPG, with highway only driving in the low 20's.

 

Personally, I would get rid of the automatic and get a manual instead.

But no, it's not hard to fix your problems. And I've the hardest part of swapping the tranny is the realignment part...

 

In case YOU missed the hints from MARK: BUY THE SWITCHES HERE: http://www.mazdamark.com/

 

very true, I think rotarys are easyer to work on, althow they differ on some simtoms, but once you get to know them, you will be fine..


Gil

 

i had a base auto as my first rx-7. got it for $400 with a couple small problems.

my advice is to save up and buy a turbo ii, or at least a 5 speed w/ the 4 piston brakes.

being automatic, and base too. youd spend probably 2/3 what you would on upgrading to a turbo ii that you would just converting to 5sp and 5lug/big brakes. And that will just bring you up to the STOCK level of most 2nd gens.

ditch the bitch and get a car with a manual and 5lug/big brakes. its not worth the effort or money.

 

good call, im over putting money into this car, i know as soon as i do, something else will probably go wrong and cause me to spend more, im gonna try to find a decent TII in the near future