So this weekend I had 3 days off in a row and decided to take care of a few things that have been bugging me.

1.regrounded the ECU ground (had to remove intake manifold, fuel rail etc)
2.removed secondary throttle plates
3.polish, paint, or clean random pieces
4.replace leaky injector seals
5.installed new cone filter

I put everything back together and started it up. It started up just fine and ran for about 10 seconds and then shut itself off. Only thing I noticed was that it started at about 1500 RPM than gradually worked up to about 2200 RPM then shut off. It does the exact same thing every single time I start it.

Do I need to adjust something to accomodate the new air flow from removing the plates? Is there something I need to seal up that I missed? I coated the insides of the plate rod holes with JB weld and tapped some plastic corks inside. Do I need gaskets for where the TB bolts to the manifold? One for where the manifold bolts to the housing?

Woud the car run for 10 seconds and shut off if the fuel injectors were reversed? Would it start at all?

 

adjust the tps

 

should i adjust it to be mor open or closed?

 

The specs for adjustment are in the FSM. I forget exactly what they are, but you check it with a multimeter/volt meter. Adjust it to within specs then it should be good to go. You adjust it with the little screw that the TPS button hits

 

i dont have a volt meter. from someone who has done the TB thing, did you open the button or close the button compared to stock afterwards?

 

Make sure your AFM is plugged in all the way and isnt upside down if its an S4.

 

well it depends. if the meter tells you the voltage is high i think you turn it in, low you turn it out. thats just by memory so dont go by that. but it all depends, no way to tell without seeing what your tps is currently set at

 

did you tak ethe thermal pellet feature out?

 

Whose instructions did you follow?
Got a link?
You might need to adjust the throttle stop screw to get the idle to stablize.
I don't supposed you messed around with the BAC valve?



-Ted

 

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TBM/tbm.html

i did everything it says to do. thermo wax is removed.

i didnt mess with the BAC technically... i just rerouted the coolent from the thermo wax straight to the BAC nipple closest to the firewall. the air piping is the same as stock to the BAC.

 

hehe, okay, it's my page.
Did you go all the way to the bottom which tells you how to adjust the throttle stop screw?


-Ted

 

am i supposed to screw it down or pull it upward?

 

ive tried adjusting the TPS and the screw (located right above the front upper throttle spot. the car runs for about 15 seconds then tries to die. if you tap the gas pedal it will try to hold on but if you tap the gas pedal and keep it at a steady position it will die. it only stays runnning if you repeatedly tap the gas pedal (barely chugs).

ive looked at the FSM and rechecked my vacuum hoses and they all check out. even so, could a misplaced vacuum line cause the car to just shut itself off? something has to be sending a code to the ECU saying "shut the engine off".

...the ECU ground is nice and tight, newly sanded metal to metal contact
...MAF wires are plugged in properly.
...atmospheric pressure sensor is plugged in
...adjuster next to APS is plugged in.
...cruise controlactuator has been removed (at least untill i get it running again...)

the cruise control vacuum line plugs into the first nipple (pointing upward) near the firewall correct? and the cold start vacuum plugs into the 2nd? I have them both capped off.

 

BTW this is an 86 GXL MT.