I've had probs with my car not wanting to start while it's cold, and those problems have been fixed. Lately though, it's been giving me problems when it's hot. A couple people said it's flooding, but i can't force myself to believe that, cause when I crank it with no gas, it doen't even pop in the exhaust. If I floor the gas, then crank it, it'll jump up occasionally and make the pops in the exhaust like it wants to run, but just keeps bouncing between 0~500 rpm. If it sits for oer 5 minutes, then it's finally ready to start, but you still have to floor the gas and keep on the starter for about 15-20 seconds. Any ideas gurus? Also, in related (maybe) news, my fan kicks on a TON, but the car doesn't run hot or anything, so I'm replacing the thermostat and hoping that stops the fan from going crazy. Could that have anything to do with the hot starts? I checked my Hayne's manual, but there were way too many options for me to even start with that. Thanks guys

 

I really have no advice, I just want to keep this at the top of the page. I am very interestred in hearing the diagnosis. Hope all is well!

 

How many miles on the engine? Good compression?

 

I think its flooding...mine does the exact same thing. I know thats the problem with mine, and I'm installing a fuel pump kill switch. You can use that to stop fuel flow, which kills the engine and also drains pressure from the fuel rail...therefore preventing your injectors from dripping. If you don't want to do that, start by replacing your injectors.

-Joe

 

th injectors are less than a year old and way too expensive for me to replace them when I still don't know if that's the problem. The engine APPARENTLY has about 10-15k miles on it, but the jackass that sold it to me was probably lying aout that. I don't know about compression because everyplace tells me it's good but they don't test it to get numbers. In any case, when I used to have a flooding problem, I could fix it by pulling the Injector fuse and cranking to clear out the gas. Now when I do tht, it sounds exactly the same as cranking it with the fuse in, so I assumed that it asn't flooded. Also, after cranking and trying to dry it up, it still wouldn't turn over and did the same thing that it did before pulling the fuse.

 

do u have a series 4 or 5, because in series 5, if u press the gas pedal fully in it cuts off fuel(if the problem is flooding)...

 

Flooring the pedals would also allow more air to get into the chambers, and vaporize some more gas. I'd say flooding, or low compression. Try dumping in some fuel injector cleaner to a half or quarter tank of gas and then drive like a mad man. See if it helps.
Sean

 

maybe its a carbon buid up? do u ever red line it?

 

Check the Air temp sensor... If the ecu thinks that the engine is cold it will send more gas... Or install a fuel kill switch...

 

Well ladies and gents, I think I may have an answer for you. I had the same problem with my '86 NA last year. Your car IS flooding to some extent, but here is where I believe the problem lies. At the back of the passenger side floor, behind the reg is a metal plate. Behind this plate lies the ECU. Remove your ECU and go to a room with lots of light. Unscrew the top plate off the ECU (I can't remember for sure if there is a board you have to take off after this but I don't think so) you should see a circut board full of diodes and capacitors, etc. Inspect the diodes verry carefully, in one of the corners you will probably see one or more diodes with a little brown spot on it. That is a burnt Diode, and here lies your problem, go to a wrecker and pick up a good ECU, pop her in and you're good to go.

Hope this helps

 

You can do a compression test with a regular compression tester. You can take the check valve out of the end and watch very closely for even bounces; and take note of the highest reading. Its easier with a half-dead battery; bounces slower. Or with the check valve in, you can get an accurate reading of the PEAK pressure generated. This doesnt tell you if one individual chamber (apex or side seal) is leaking. But if you have 90 psi max on both rotors(for example), it should be good. Hell, when I first got my TII it had sat for over 2 years After driving it for about 25 miles to warm it up good (no redlining for the first 3 weeks) I checked the compression, and it had 65-70 psi on both rotors I've been driving the beast for about 2 months now. I have been trying to set aside 2-3 days for a good ATF stew. Maybe this weekend

 

Oh yeah, IT RUNS GOOD!!! Definately blew some **** out, cause it runs better than it did when I first drove it. Yeah it hesitates at around 3800 RPM, yeah its got MASSIVE negative rear camber, and yeah the logicon is fucked up. But all in due time, it will be fixed. Then I can start some REAL mods

 

RestoTII- How did it go? did you find the problem?