wankel jr.

My car won't shut off with the key even turned to lock, the engine keeps running and the clock,blower,idiot lights stay on.

I kill the engine by pulling the EGI fuse and then disconnecting the battery to stop it draining, when I reconnect the battery the lights dont come straight back on, until I turn the key.

When I pull one of the plugs at the Main Relay, the round connector(black/yellow, white/black wires) it will seem to work correctly, the lights all go out when the key is on lock, and turn on again at the right times when I turn the key. I looked at the FSM but cant get my head around the wiring diagrams. So what does this plug do, does this mean my MAIN RELAY IS BAD?

At the ignition, with key on lock, I have constant power at the white/red and black/green wires.
The car had an alarm and a turbo timer in the past, but has neither now.

I recently fitted a FD alt properly, now my idiot lights come up correctly, but it didnt fix this problem too like I hoped it would :P

Anyone got any ideas?

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

This happened to me when I did my TII swap. I reversed the alternator wires on the back of it by accident./ It kept the car running exactly like you said.

On a FC Alt I just swapped them. On a FD you'll have to figure out which one you need as the reference for the volt meter.
On my FD alt I then used the B post as the 12v reference as well. SO one of thew stock plug wires is unused now.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

lol! I still love remembering when you called me all freaked out because you started the car, and the car would not shut off, and you had a stuck throttle..

Priceless..

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

^lol, Yeah . What a way to start a new engine for the first time!

arghx

iTrader: (3)

this is why I had my s4 alternator rebuilt to 100amp rather than going through the hassle of an FD alt

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Your alternator is probably hooked up wrong.

Icemark

Alt is wired wrong.

Unplug the two pin on the alt, does the car turn off if the key is off?

It should.

You probably have the alts referance lead to the ignition instead of the battery and the run lead probably has the diode blown out from the alt being hooked up wrong.

wankel jr.

With both the FD alt wires disconnected and the ign on lock, I still hear the engine humming(oil pump?) the heater still works, the power windows work, headlights work..

The FD alt is wired correctly as far as I know, S=battery ref. L=white/black from loom

brb..


OK So Im pretty sure I DID HAVE the alt wired up right, but I just swapped the S and L to see what.. well now my idiot lights dont come up at all, what have I done now???

Icemark: "and the run lead probably has the diode blown out from the alt being hooked up wrong."
How do I fix this, what is the run lead and where it the diode? searching now..

Now 2 Problems... the saga continues...

wankel jr.

So the diode I JUST blew is IN the alt? bugger

wankel jr.

Will this work for me, you dont seem too sure ? Should I use the diode on the S or L wire?