my turbo does the samae thing so i might try that too and it only does it under boost

 

ok i found a MAF in a junkyard that seemed to meet the specs in the FSM. i've put it in and i'm still getting the same behavior. anybody have any other ideas?

 

so is there any thing that would make the afm give an inaccurate reading

 

well its basically a switch and a variable resistor. aside from the resistor failing not much can go wrong with that part. i wonder if something is wrong with my ecu.

 

yea your ECU or TPS either the TPS is failing or the ECU is freaking out. test your TPS with the test on www.fc3s.org

 

i got the same problem, i just got a new afm from a friend of mine on the forum, and my tps is coming in the mail, and on monday or tuesday, depending on what day i get my tps, im gonna take it to the muffler shop by my house to check out my pre cat, i think its clogged. Did you get your car running right yet?

 

Yes i did, my first pre cat had clogged and then disintegrated into the second pre cat. my main cat was fine but we gutted it anyway

 

my car is running great now that i put the tps. my pre cat was so broken up inside and the main cat was clogged bad. Good to hear that everything is ok.

 

yer nuts...

plus if i logged off the forum a number of people wouldn't know what to do with themselves.

now for throwing parts at your cars, well that may work for you but personally i like to tell people to look for a problem rather than throw parts at their cars. as you said you replaced the cats and the AFM, well the AFMs rarely fail but cats on the other hand in rotaries tend to die at 100-150k and if you look around, well, most cars around here are nearing that number. BUT i will not tell people to go gutting their cat for no reason as this person already took that advice and yours and none of them worked though they may have been partially at fault.

now what i will ask the poster is what type of modification he did to the 5th and 6th ports to make them "S5 style".

 

for the record i never said anything about his cats or to just "throw parts at the car" till it fixed it. all i said was to check the AFM only because the exact same thing happened to my car, given i am running a down pipe w/ presilencer combo so i have no cats.

 

I followed this write up http://rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen...actuation.html
which matched up to the one in the archives.

they now activate off of pressure from the air pump.

My AFM was definitely bad. It was nowhere near the specs listed in the FSM.

 

[QUOTE=hondaslaya]for the record i never said anything about his cats or to just "throw parts at the car" till it fixed it. all i said was to check the AFM only because the exact same thing happened to my car, given i am running a down pipe w/ presilencer combo so i have no cats. either way this isnt about me and you its about him. Glad you got your car running man!

 

just to be sure it was done correctly i would try wiring them open and take the car for a spin to be sure the ports are in fact opening when they are supposed to/at all.

 

well i'd rather not mess with taking the actuators off, but i have used a tachometer while visually checking to make sure they were opening at 3800 rpm.

 

well if you are sure the actuators are opening then the only things left i would suggest checking are:

fuel filter/fuel pressure
ignition cables/spark plugs
back pressure in the exhaust still(you sure the main cat survived? or did you say you omitted that as well?)


visually inspect the secondary injector clips as well, if one of those clips broke or came off then the engine won't have much power past 4k. possible one of the secondary injectors failed or is plugged up with crap also so maybe removing them and have them tested is a good idea if nothing else seems to be at fault.

 

Actually i just replaced the main cat with a straight pipe. it was actually the two pre cats that were clogged. I've gutted those and it is operating normally now.

 

so the 4500 wall is gone?

 

Yep, revs all the way to redline and works great now.