I just got my FFE hall trigger kit in the mail today and have got it bolted in along with my side mount alternator and I'm trying to keep my wiring simple. I was wondering if I could somehow clip off the stock cas connector from the harness and use the supplied crimp and weather proof connector to join it to the hall sensor?

I'm thinking the white signal wire from the hall should go to pin 24 on the MS, NE+ red wire on the stock harness. Then the black ground wire to pin 2 on the MS, NE- white wire on the stock harness. And finally, just a regular switched 12v for the red power wire.

Also, does anybody know what size belt I need for my Atkins side mount alt setup? I'm running a Taurus alt with Japan2LA's dual sheave pulley, crank and w/p are stock.

 

I'm not a wiring Guru,but isn't the signal from the CAS different than the signal from the FFE Trigger?If I am thinking right the ECU will not read the FFE trigger.

and how the hell did you get BOTH the FFE trigger and the Side mount alternator bracket on the engine if they use the same mounting points?
Post a PIC.!

 

I'm not using the stock ECU, I'm running a MS3 with MS3x and was just wondering about using the existing wiring, just changing settings in TunerStudio. Now that I think about it, probably shoulda posted this in the MS section.

I'll snap a pic tomorrow after I get everything all done and find a belt that fits, but everything seems to clear right now. I always figured they both would work anyways, just worried about the belt running into the sensor holding part of the 3 piece arm.

 

A fast way to measure the belt is just toss a string around the pulleys and get the length.
They make belts in different lengths and the parts guy can match that up for you.After all this is not your average install anymore and you need a different size.
If you think the sensor may get in the way,try it with a piece of rope to give you an idea if the belt is going to interfere.

Ya.,the MS section should be able to answer the CAS/FFE question.
I hope you do post there as I am curious to the outcome.Cheers.

 

I don't really want to be double posting, hopefully a mod can see my mistake and please move this to the MS forum? If not, I'll just copy and paste the FFE part of the first post.

But, about the belt, I was using my p/s belt as reference and just pulling up the slack on the top side and as long as the alternator isn't at about the halfway point or closer to the engine, had to use the stock adjuster bracket since it has a slight curve and didn't want to shave anymore off the Taurus alt, it seems like I've got plenty of room below the hall sensor. And, if I do just the opposite and pull the slack from below, I've got miles of room lol.

 

Go ahead and Copy paste the INFO out of the thread and post it in the MS Forum.
I'll take the heat for that..I AM a MOD but I can't move this thread.
This thread beats "what oil should I use?" by far!!..so it won't be too bad to get double exposure on this matter!
Good Luck.

 

yep you can use the stock CAS wiring, pick either the G or NE pair, and wire it up. the stock wiring is shielded and grounded, so it works well*

you will have to change the settings in the MS as its completely different.


*bad haltech experience talking

 

Awesome, I knew I'd have to change the settings, FFE makes that pretty clear. Just like that I don't have to run any new wiring, except for the power wire to the hall sensor.

 

First off let me start by saying this post is probably going to be copied and pasted into my other thread asking if it's even feasible to run both the side mount and FFE trigger kit.

Well, I got everything installed and buttoned up around 8:30pm last night and I have to say it runs exceptionally well. No issues with the belt, currently running a Duralast 17400, except for a slight whine but I'm guessing I probably over tensioned the belt a little bit, almost sounds like I've got a supercharger lol.

In the ~15 minutes or so that I drove it after I let her warm up to temp, she seems to run so much smoother now. She idles strong and steady, no random losing sync issues common with the stock CAS, and no more squealing belt in the upper rpm range or when I stab the throttle a few times out of gear. As a unexpected extra, my shifter isn't doing the shimmy anymore while out of gear, still vibrates a little but no where near as bad.

Also, I finally got my Aeromotive regulator in so the Aeromotive 340 pump isn't hammering away at the stock regulator anymore. And, I did away with the fire hazard, with a banjo bolt, and grabbed a few AN fittings for a minimal install to get the Aero regulator in. I've stressed over that fire hazard ever since I first learned about it, and that's a big relief to me now.

I snapped a few pictures last night before it got too dark but before everything was completely bolted down, and I'll grab a few more tomorrow and possibly a vid and throw them up here just so you can see that it all does in fact fit, and quite nicely at that.

 

Well, here they are.

 

if you're going through the trouble of installing a FFE trigger wheel, do you really want to rely on the 25 year old CAS wiring?

 

This is my dd and I had to miss class yesterday to get this finished. It took me two days in a row of 12+ hours to get everything done. I just wanted to get it done, and if down the road I start having issues, then I'll rethink the wiring. For now though, it's done and I can drive again.

But, thank you for the concern. I do, one day, plan on just rewiring the whole car, front to back, and removing everything unnecessary. I've got a ton of empty connectors now with everything I've removed and/or modified.