Wiper switch relay replacement didn't fix a damn thing....
#1
Wiper switch relay replacement didn't fix a damn thing....
What other problems occure in wiper switches? I replaced the relay with a new upgraded unit and nothing changed. What other failure points are there in the switches? This is off of an 89 gtu without a rear wiper.
Santiago
Santiago
#2
It's a Hammer
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I replaced the relays for 2 different cars. One worked fine and one didn't. The whole switch is a failure point (cold sodder). The one that didn't work I sent to Mazdamark for a rebuild and now its fine.
#3
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
As covered before, replacing the relay will only fix a switch that does not work on Hi and intermitent settings.
what is the problem with your switch???
what is the problem with your switch???
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Originally Posted by Icemark
As covered before, replacing the relay will only fix a switch that does not work on Hi and intermitent settings.
what is the problem with your switch???
what is the problem with your switch???
And yes i've searched to no avail.
Thanx,
Matt
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#8
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by 1987RX7guy
The Hi and intermitent settengs wouldn't work.
looking at it (the old relay), there should be nothing but very thin metal legs... if you have any of the legs that have a thicker coating around a leg (usually copper colored) then you burnt the circuit board when you removed the relay and damaged the board.
I can fix that, but it requires running new traces or a new circuit board.
This is what Dr.jones63 problem was and comes up about 50% of the time for people replacing the relay themselves.
#9
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by marlaman
Hey Mark, on my vert when my wiper motor is plugged in they work all the time, even when the switch is off. the only way to get the wipers to stop is to manually unplug the motor under the hood, any ideas what this could be?
And yes i've searched to no avail.
Thanx,
Matt
And yes i've searched to no avail.
Thanx,
Matt
Unfortantly if it is in the switch, it requires the board to be removed from the switch to fix which is beyond many peoples abilities.
If it is one of my switches I do warranty the switch for 6 months (soon to be extended to 12 months) and would be happy to check it out for you.
#10
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
My wipers don't work on intermitent or high, and won't park. I replaced the relay and nothing changed. RHD 'vert wiper switches are rarer than rocking horse droppings...
Last edited by Icemark; 09-14-04 at 06:46 PM.
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Originally Posted by Icemark
Do you have the relay that you removed???
looking at it (the old relay), there should be nothing but very thin metal legs... if you have any of the legs that have a thicker coating around a leg (usually copper colored) then you burnt the circuit board when you removed the relay and damaged the board.
I can fix that, but it requires running new traces or a new circuit board.
This is what Dr.jones63 problem was and comes up about 50% of the time for people replacing the relay themselves.
looking at it (the old relay), there should be nothing but very thin metal legs... if you have any of the legs that have a thicker coating around a leg (usually copper colored) then you burnt the circuit board when you removed the relay and damaged the board.
I can fix that, but it requires running new traces or a new circuit board.
This is what Dr.jones63 problem was and comes up about 50% of the time for people replacing the relay themselves.
This would be on a 91 vert if that makes any difference.
Last edited by ultradef; 09-15-04 at 08:58 AM.
#14
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by ultradef
How can you avoid damaging the circuit board when replacing the relay? I was planning on ordering a relay from you soon, but I don't want to make problems worse by burning the board. I read the DIY on your site, and it seems people just burn the board by holding the soldering iron there too long? Any tips or secrets?
This would be on a 91 vert if that makes any difference.
This would be on a 91 vert if that makes any difference.
As far as damaging the board... the key is to remove all the solder from the joints on the relay on the red spots:
(orange spots are for the rear wipers on coupes with rear wipers, so don't pay any attention to those if youa re working with a coupe W/O a rear wiper or convertibles.
If you don't remove all the solder, then when you go to pop out the relay the circuit board will stick to the relay pins (pretty much wrecking the board) or even worse.. if you overheat the solder the same thing will happen. So there is a fine line on getting the solder hot enough to suck it all out with a solder sucker, but not too hot
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
I'll keep that in mind, but it'll have to wait until summer. Since it's spring here, I sort of need it in the car at the moment.
http://www.rainx.com/frame_auto_glass.htm
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Originally Posted by Icemark
First, no it makes no difference if it is a vert switch or a coupe without a rear wiper.
As far as damaging the board... the key is to remove all the solder from the joints on the relay on the red spots:
(orange spots are for the rear wipers on coupes with rear wipers, so don't pay any attention to those if youa re working with a coupe W/O a rear wiper or convertibles.
If you don't remove all the solder, then when you go to pop out the relay the circuit board will stick to the relay pins (pretty much wrecking the board) or even worse.. if you overheat the solder the same thing will happen. So there is a fine line on getting the solder hot enough to suck it all out with a solder sucker, but not too hot
As far as damaging the board... the key is to remove all the solder from the joints on the relay on the red spots:
(orange spots are for the rear wipers on coupes with rear wipers, so don't pay any attention to those if youa re working with a coupe W/O a rear wiper or convertibles.
If you don't remove all the solder, then when you go to pop out the relay the circuit board will stick to the relay pins (pretty much wrecking the board) or even worse.. if you overheat the solder the same thing will happen. So there is a fine line on getting the solder hot enough to suck it all out with a solder sucker, but not too hot
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I have the same problem as one of the posters above on my 90 GTU: my wipers run the entire time they are connected and I have to manually unplug the cable to get them to stop. I found a troubleshooting guide for the wiper motor, and it looks to me like the ground wire is bad on my wiper motor (according to the write up, the top right pin of the connector when looking at it with the locking tab on the right is supposed to be a ground and it's definitely not grounded in my case). Anyone know if this is easy to fix by disassembling the motor and determining where the wire is bad/rerunning the ground, or should I just get a new motor?
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