cash money

this time they are both DOWN....its its raining, isn't their a way i can take a piece of wire and stick it in the wiring harness to get them rolled up, down windows aren't fun in the autumn in the rainy state of washington, i would apreciate any help

Thanks

go_speed_go

With my 90, the switch didn't burn out, the plastic rocker cracked and wouldn't push the switch on the circuit board anymore.

Pry the switch box out of the door and open it up. While I looked for a suitable replacement, I drove around with just the circuit board sitting in the door's armrest.

cash money

last time my switch went out i opened up the switch and half the circuit board was burned up

come one guys, i know you can like get a meter or somethin and jumper the 2 wires and make it roll up or somethin...

Icemark

Well you need to disconnect the switch and ground one if the window wires while putting 12v+ on the other.

These would be the 14 awg wires, but I don't have the colors with me as I am at work.

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

Sounds like your simply not getting a positive "hot" to your master "drivers door" switch.

If you replace the fuse and it blows again, I'm totally betting the passenger door switch electronics are shorting out and your only alternative is to replace the total switch. There is alot going on in that little thing and I wouldn't be surprised. DO NOT TRY AND REPLACE IT WITH A HIGHER AMP ONE!!!!!!! Using a 15 or 20 amp one will do the job if you don't have a 30 amp one.

If you have a blown fuse and it blows again after you replace it, then pop out your drivers door switch module, disconnect it, then replace the fuse again. If it doesn't blow, they that confirms the switch is bad. If this is the case, I PM'd you the information you'll need. Be VERY careful doing what I said, or you'll blow the fuse again.

Good luck, and let me know how it turned out.

I used to live in Seattle, and I totally know what you mean.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

Havent done my Power Window rollup module or my alarm system/yet, but from the DEI prinout of an 88 RX-7

It says

LF WINDOW UP/DN - green/blk - red/blk
RF WINDOW UP/DN - green/wht - red/wht

Follow what ICEMARK said on the grounding and powering the wires etc, also disconnect the switch..

By the way ICEMARK do you know if these windows are normally grounded? On my 83 and 85, I had to apply ground to a wire other than the window motor wire, before my Alpine 8341 window module would roll the windows up...

t_mak@mail.plymouth.edu

Disconnect the plug to the power windows, then get 2 wires, wire them backward. I had that happened on my 626, had to do it that way

The rpoblem with our window switch is that there are too much current going through it. You are supposed to be able to cure the problem by grounding it or something (I dont remember exactly what he said, it was 2 years ago)

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

I know the window switch modules from a Series 4 (86-88) won't work properly in a Series 5 (89-91). From my factory manual wiring diagram, here is the info you need:

"Black/red strip" is your HOT (positive source).
"Solid black" is your ground (negative source).

Bridge a wire from the HOT to the "red/black strip" wire running to your window motor. Bridge a wire from the GROUND and just touch the "green/black strip" other wire running to your window motor. That will raise that window. FYI, the reverse will lower it.

Now, to raise your passenger window, find the "red/white strip" and the "green/white strip" and "black/blue strip" wire running from the connector to your passenger door switch. You need to run constant connection of the HOT to the "black/blue strip" and GROUND to the "green/white strip" AND the "red/white strip". I'll bet your passenger window switch will work as normal then. I'm totally betting that its only your drivers door switch that is bad.

Anyway, let me know how it works out. And, before you replace the drivers door switch, you need to find out what wire is shorting out and blowing out the fuse or the switch electricals. Those things are too damn expensive to not.

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

One of the rocker arm (passenger switch) broke on my drivers door switch module. The electricals are still good. If anybody has a dead 89-91 driver side module with all rocker arms intack, I'd pay "cash-money" for what you'd probably just throw away anyway.

PM me if you can help me out.

Thanks.

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

^

cash money

thanks for all the wiring info, i still have my switch from the first burnout, i think the switch it ok, just the board burned up.... i can see if you want

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

PM me. I thank you, and my wallet thanks you.

I assume you got your windows up. Was I right about your passenger switch still working ok?

spinner26

What I do when my power windows "burn-out" is take them apart, sand off the contacts that are covered in dirt and grime, and put them back together.

It takes about 20 minutes per switch and I have to do this every 6 months.

It might be easier than going crazy with wiring mods if you just need to sand off the contacts.

Worth a try, good luck!


--mike

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

I know you can do that to the Series 4 versions (86-88), been there done that.

But I think the Series 5's are solid state. So can't do that I don't believe. But, haven't tried. Any other opinions here?

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

^