Will someone please look at my nipples?
#1
Will someone please look at my nipples?
I've been doing a LOT of cleanup since I've got the engine out, and I'm finding that the coolant nipples on a number of parts are badly eroded, some even having holes in them. I'm wondering what I might could use to repair them. I was thinking of JB weld but I don't know how it'll stand up to the coolant over time. Anyone have any suggestions?
#3
It looks like your nipples are off the car ... I like the brass inserts ... however I am trying to think of another way. JB-Weld says it will sustain the coolant but I have my doubts... I guess you could do it and check it in 6-12 months.
Have you thought about brazing the holes?
Have you thought about brazing the holes?
#4
I'm assuming that you mean cut the entire host fitting off, not just the corroded nipple? Then tap into the aluminum body where the fitting connects? Why would I need to drill? Wouldn't the part of the host fitting inside the body be welded/joined in there enough that I could just tap that?
My brasing/welding skills are about a 0.5 out of 10. I'd probably really screw it up.
My brasing/welding skills are about a 0.5 out of 10. I'd probably really screw it up.
#5
Too old for this
I'm assuming that you mean cut the entire host fitting off, not just the corroded nipple? Then tap into the aluminum body where the fitting connects? Why would I need to drill? Wouldn't the part of the host fitting inside the body be welded/joined in there enough that I could just tap that?
#6
Mark - I happened to have a kit for JB-Quick here on my desk - It says it is resistant to coolant. I think the goal would be to let it set up for 24 hours before you attempted any sanding or forming into what the hose would attach too.
As MadScience said - Most of the barbs I am familar with have tapered threads so that inital "screw in" is very important.
I am looking at your pictures again - In reality a hose and clamp are going to be well below any of your damaged areas. The goal would be to make sure you have a proper mix of water/coolant so that cancer is not living in such ideal conditions ... My sneaking suspison is that you had more water than coolant and that caused the rust to develop. You could also treat the spots with a rust inhibitor (sp?) ...
As MadScience said - Most of the barbs I am familar with have tapered threads so that inital "screw in" is very important.
I am looking at your pictures again - In reality a hose and clamp are going to be well below any of your damaged areas. The goal would be to make sure you have a proper mix of water/coolant so that cancer is not living in such ideal conditions ... My sneaking suspison is that you had more water than coolant and that caused the rust to develop. You could also treat the spots with a rust inhibitor (sp?) ...
#7
Engine, Not Motor
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I wouldn't worry too much about that. If you are capable of drilling and tapping for 1/4" NPT then go ahead and do it. There is plenty of meat on the water pump housing for tapping, but on the thermowax assembly that may not be the case. Just tap VERY slowly (only about 1/8 turn at a time) and use lots of lube.
If you don't want to tap, I think you'd be fine just cleaning those nipples up and filling the pits with JB-Weld.
If you don't want to tap, I think you'd be fine just cleaning those nipples up and filling the pits with JB-Weld.
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#8
Manual Rack
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Also as you tap do 1/8" turn like Aaron said then back the tap out alittle then forward another 1/8 turn again. As for JB weld im done with that ghetto crap. Ive used it before to fill a small hole from a sensor i had installed on the water neck of the waterpump. Lasted a month or so before leaking. I did it as proper as possible, In general JB weld is ghettoooo....its like a fake welder haha
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