will they?

 

yes

 

Can we elaborate a bit more lol... I've been searching for an answer to this question for a while and I'd like some more info. I have an S4 T2 engine with damaged housings and rotors. Someone has offered me S6 housings and rotors and I would like to know if I can run them like normal, or with little to no modifications? So that would mean I have S6 housings and rotors and everything else including the ECU is stock S4 T2.

I have one last question. Would this be a good set-up for power and reliability...
S6 housings, S5 T2 rotors and S4 T2 irons, with stock S4 T2 ECU? The reason I ask is because I've read that S6 housings are better than S4 T2 and S5 T2. And I also read that S5 T2 rotors are better than S4 T2 and S6 rotors. Sorry if that is confusing, I am new to rebuilding engines and I'm trying to figure out what my best route for power is, working with what I've already got. If it makes any difference I do plan on street porting the intake and exhaust ports with templates from atkins rotary.

 

s6 housing is essential same as s5 turbo.. has different surface treatment and has grooves on the legs of the housing for sealant
.. treat them as interchangeable with s5


s4 rotors while slightly heavier,, are MUCH stronger than s5 or FD rotors at higher boosts
.. not just because of the lesser comp ratio.. but due to internal ribbing

 

Thanks a lot man! I really appreciate the help! So you think if I go with S6 housings, and everything else can be S4 it should be a trustworthy set-up?

 

yes .. just be sure the masses used are correct for s4 rotors and go for it.. nil issues

 

Sorry for all the questions but what do you mean by masses?

 

counterweights front and rear must be s4 if using s4 rotors
.. if manual OEM flywheel ( which is integral rear mass ) then it needs to be N318 marked on the back

 

Oh okay cool. Wow, you've been a big help man, really appreciate it, thanks!

 

I had an S4 engine and used S5 irons and S6 rotor housings. Make sure which ever rotor housings you choose match, because the spark holes change slightly.

 

I never heard anyone say that, is there any proof to this?

I'm only running a stock s5 Turbo so it won't effect me.

If I ever did upgrade I'd go with a hybrid s5 Turbo or gt35r , and shoot for around 325whp.

I'm hesitant to go higher with an s4 rear iron and not having the engine doweled/pinned.

From what I hear problems with irons cracking happen at 350whp and up, of course a bad tune will cause a cracked iron when detonation occurs.

 

s4 irons are weaker than s5 ones.. s5 is improved around the boss for the rear oil dowel
( reinstating a cast wedge that was previously on older 12a /13b engine plates )

this is well known

s5 rotor V s4 rotor,, dont know where you looked but you cant have looked to far... plenty of evidence of dented face s5 rotors,, s4 rotors never,, and the evidence is in mazda own papers where they highlight thinning the internal ribbing and moving one rib is how they managed to drop the mass down

no secret for more than a dozen yrs to those seeking high HP

can i dig up the papers? no.. cant be fucked .., believe as you wish,, but when you dent some rotors,, remember you got told here.... first

 

I knew the s5 plate has a thicker casting, never knew about the rotors so its news to me. I've got an s4 Turbo 13b so it's good new to me.

When you say high boost how high are you talking, that's a vague term that everyone has a different definition for. To me high boost is 20+ psi for a car running pump fuel, but then again my car is a daily driver, for someone that's drag racing they'd probably say 30-50psi running race fuel.

 

If you are using an FC turbo or the stock FC turbo water line for that matter, you will have an issue with the S6 housings.

The coolant passage in the housing that flows through the FC lower intake manifold is blocked off in the S6 housings.

 

ah yes,, nice spot,, me i always take the coolant for turbo off the top of the rear iron ( ex waxcam/BACv feed ) and return it to rear of water pump ( ex waxcam/BAVc return )
as its a better cooling circuit than returning it straight to pump inlet like mazda curiously did
( also on retro RX installs for RHD cars it removes need for the low down coolant return which gets in the way of the necessary shift of turbo forwards )

PS
it is a very nice thing to know you have no coolant crossovers into the inlet manifold and remove potential for the ( inevitable ) o ring fail

 

dont forget about coolant passeges the fd hosuings dont have for the fc stuff..

 

Hosuings. The course of action when "that bitch don't pay a pimp."