Jeff_Ciesielski

OK, so i sorted out the issues with my car not revving pask 3k (turns out, my injectors are MAAAAAD dirty, im having them cleaned), But today, it sounded like my ignition was breaking up, so i put a timing light on the leading plugs, and my rear rotor wasn't getting a spark. So i switched the plugs between the front and rear, and the problem moved with it. I went and got a new plug, and put in in the front housing. car started up fine again, and everything ran great for about 3 minutes, and then the rear plug died again :/. Any ideas? I dont feel like carrying around a bag of plugs with me.

-Six-

iTrader: (10)

What do you mean the plug "died"? Maybe its just not getting spark, or intermittently getting spark? Are the plug wires still good, coil packs good?

iceblue

Ok let’s work a few things here.

First the timing light will pick up from spark from the coil traveling through the wire; the plug has no effect whatsoever.

Next the L coil is a direct fire and both L wires fire at the same time. It would matter not what rotor you place them on. The trailing however is not and fire independently.

It sounds like you have a bad coil/igniter.

Jeff_Ciesielski

OK, so why does the problem only seem to be related with one plug then? If I switch the plug from the rear to the front, then the front gets no spark, and vice versa. Why would that happen?

iceblue

Are you swaping the wires too?

Jeff_Ciesielski

No, This is without swapping the wires. If I just swap the wires, the lack of spark stays still. It only moves when i swap plugs.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

quit being cheap and go out and buy new plugs..You know why..The plugs are Crap(fouled)..said so yourself..the injectors were dirty..since you fixed that,now is the time to complete the fix and get new plugs ..and let the engine run right..it will get it's spark back.

Jeff_Ciesielski

Really? Wow! I could have swore they were BRAND NEW PLUGS that I put in...strange.

Tournapart

iTrader: (4)

Repeating what the thread was started with for your own entertainment?

He clearly stated that there was a problem with ONE spark plug and so he got new ones, he put a NEW one where the old one was bad to see if it would amke a difference and it did, for a few minutes and then the plug fouled again

Do you have anything useful to say on this matter?

I say test your coils and make sure they're in spec, is there burnt oil or excessive gas or *gulp* water/coolent on the igniter? try another plug they're is an pff chance you got ONE defective one, also, check the wires.

iceblue

Something is wrong here. Plugs do not cause spark they only cause spark isolated into the combushtion chamber.

Test for spark without a test light they are unreliable. The plug was getting no spark it will only be wet not fould or carbon fould. If the plug is getting carbon fould and black deposits you probably lost the rear rotor.

Specifications
General
Coil resistance 0.2 to 1 ohm
Crank angle sensor resistance
Between terminals G1 and G2 110 to 210ohms
Between terminals Ne1 and Ne2 110 to 210 ohms

Torque specifications
Crank angle sensor locknuts 69.6 to 96 in-lbs

Ignition system
The ignition system includes the ignitions switch, the battery, the crank angle sensor, the leading and trailing side coil/igniters, the primary (low voltage) and secondary (high voltage) wiring circuits, the spark plugs and the spark plug wires.
When working on the ignition system, take the following precautions:
a) If the engine wont start, don’t keep the ignition switch on for more than 10 seconds.
b) Never allow an ignition coil terminal to contact ground. Grounding the ignition coil can damage the igniter and/or the coil itself.
c) Don’t disconnect the battery when the engine is running.
d) Make sure the igniter is properly grounded.

Ignition Check
1 Attach an inductive timing light to each plug wire, one at a time and crank the engine.
A) If the light flashes, voltage is reaching the plugs.
B) If the light does not flash, proceed to the next step.
2 Inspect the spark plug wire(s), and spark plug(s).
3 If the engine still wont start, check the coil/igniter assemblies.

Leading Coil Check
1 Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal.
2 Detach the high tension leads from the coil Note that the leads are marked (white dot on high tension terminal No. 1 and white band on leading high tension lead No. 1) If the leads on your vehicle are not marked, be sure that you mark them to prevent incorrect reassembly.
3 Remove the plastic cover from the primary terminals of the coil.
4 Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the primary terminals of the coil and compare you measurement to the value (specifications listed).
5 If the indicated resistance is not as specified, replace the leading coil.

Trailing Coil Check
1 Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal.
2 Remove the plastic cover from the primary terminal.
3 Detach the high-tension leads; the leads should be marked (a white dot on the N0 .1 high tension lead). If they’re not marked on your vehicle, be sure that you mark hem to insure proper reassembly.
4 Using and ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the primary terminals and compare your measurements with the value listed in specifications.
5 Repeat this procedure for the other trailing coil.
6 If the indicated resistance of either unit is not within specifications, replace it.

Igniter
1 Testing the igniter assemblies requires special equipment. Take the vehicle to a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop to have the igniters checked.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

sorry ..Whootish.(sound of whip)..my bad..reading it ..it looks like he has one plug..sorry..

HAILERS

If lead number one is firing good and YOU say the lead number two isn't, one thing is for SURE. It is NOT a bad lead coil/ignitor. There's only one coil for lead and it fires both plugs at the same time.

And you know from reading the factory service bulletins, that if you use a inductive timing light the *flash/light* will most likely be irregular on one of the two lead plug wires UNLESS you reverse the inductive clamp on the wire of the one that *seems* to be firing irregular. Then it will show to be firing in a regular pattern. All S4/5 owners know that

It sounds like you have a bad sparkplug wire, perhaps? Shorting out?