why cant i go past 4k RPM????
09-24-12, 12:20 PM
#27
i still am sticking to my guns, check the secondary injector clips, takes a few minutes and i'm wondering why it hasn't been done already. sometimes it feels like i'm pulling teeth.. it doesn't cost a dime. a TPS issue would cause other symptoms along with the brick wall at 4k. a loose secondary injector clip usually results in both secondary injectors not firing which causes the severe lean condition that usually causes this. grounding issues usually result in a severe stutter at 4k but power is regained after the injectors have fully staged where the clip issue feels like a severely clogged cat, engine struggling to get beyond 6k.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 09-24-12 at 12:24 PM.
09-24-12, 08:48 PM
#29
Full Member
Thread Starter
yes, it was laced with a bit of sarcasm. like everyone has access to plentiful used parts, if someone went out and bought all new parts that list would equal several thousand dollars and still likely wouldn't fix the issue.
i still am sticking to my guns, check the secondary injector clips, takes a few minutes and i'm wondering why it hasn't been done already. sometimes it feels like i'm pulling teeth.. it doesn't cost a dime. a TPS issue would cause other symptoms along with the brick wall at 4k. a loose secondary injector clip usually results in both secondary injectors not firing which causes the severe lean condition that usually causes this. grounding issues usually result in a severe stutter at 4k but power is regained after the injectors have fully staged where the clip issue feels like a severely clogged cat, engine struggling to get beyond 6k.
i still am sticking to my guns, check the secondary injector clips, takes a few minutes and i'm wondering why it hasn't been done already. sometimes it feels like i'm pulling teeth.. it doesn't cost a dime. a TPS issue would cause other symptoms along with the brick wall at 4k. a loose secondary injector clip usually results in both secondary injectors not firing which causes the severe lean condition that usually causes this. grounding issues usually result in a severe stutter at 4k but power is regained after the injectors have fully staged where the clip issue feels like a severely clogged cat, engine struggling to get beyond 6k.
09-30-12, 06:48 PM
#30
Full Member
Thread Starter
update.
replaced the following:
-engine main relay
-circuit opening realy
-new TPS and adjusted
- all ignition coils
-ignition switch
ive checked the MAF and followed the check procedures via FSM and it check out okay.
car starts and dies right after. i see RPM needle bump when i starts %100 of the time
but when its cranking and it doesnt start i dont see no needle bump. ive checked the injector clips and they are okay.
im running out of ideas on how to fix this problem hmmmm any suggestions
replaced the following:
-engine main relay
-circuit opening realy
-new TPS and adjusted
- all ignition coils
-ignition switch
ive checked the MAF and followed the check procedures via FSM and it check out okay.
car starts and dies right after. i see RPM needle bump when i starts %100 of the time
but when its cranking and it doesnt start i dont see no needle bump. ive checked the injector clips and they are okay.
im running out of ideas on how to fix this problem hmmmm any suggestions
09-30-12, 08:43 PM
#31
Full Member
Thread Starter
i checked some of the pin at the ECU with the key position ON and this is what i found. FSM 4A CONTROL UNIT PAGE 4A-31
1M-.93V
1N-5.33V
1P-5.34V
1Q-5.35V
1T-5.35V
1U-8.36V
1V-.01V
1X-0
2B-8.19V
2C-0V BUT RESISTANCE 2.90
2D-4.14V
2E-8.63V
2F-7.89V
2G-5.20V
2H-8.20V
2I-6.14V
2J-6.14V
2L-8.16V
2R-0V RESISTANCE GOOD
3A-0V RESISTANCE GOOD
3B-1.63V
3C-11.55V
3D-1.62V
3E-11.45V
3F-11.45V
3G-0V RESISTANCE GOOD
3H-11.44V
3I-11.44V
3J- NEGATIVE 0.12V? HAHAHA I DONT KNOW
some volts are higher than what its suppose to be in the FSM
1M-.93V
1N-5.33V
1P-5.34V
1Q-5.35V
1T-5.35V
1U-8.36V
1V-.01V
1X-0
2B-8.19V
2C-0V BUT RESISTANCE 2.90
2D-4.14V
2E-8.63V
2F-7.89V
2G-5.20V
2H-8.20V
2I-6.14V
2J-6.14V
2L-8.16V
2R-0V RESISTANCE GOOD
3A-0V RESISTANCE GOOD
3B-1.63V
3C-11.55V
3D-1.62V
3E-11.45V
3F-11.45V
3G-0V RESISTANCE GOOD
3H-11.44V
3I-11.44V
3J- NEGATIVE 0.12V? HAHAHA I DONT KNOW
some volts are higher than what its suppose to be in the FSM
10-01-12, 11:31 AM
#32
Full Member
Thread Starter
i checked some of the pin at the ECU with the key position ON and this is what i found. FSM 4A CONTROL UNIT PAGE 4A-31
1M-.93V
1N-5.33V
1P-5.34V
1Q-5.35V
1T-5.35V
1U-8.36V
1V-.01V
1X-0
2B-8.19V
2C-0V BUT RESISTANCE 2.90
2D-4.14V
2E-8.63V
2F-7.89V
2G-5.20V
2H-8.20V
2I-6.14V
2J-6.14V
2L-8.16V
2R-0V RESISTANCE GOOD
3A-0V RESISTANCE GOOD
3B-1.63V
3C-11.55V
3D-1.62V
3E-11.45V
3F-11.45V
3G-0V RESISTANCE GOOD
3H-11.44V
3I-11.44V
3J- NEGATIVE 0.12V? HAHAHA I DONT KNOW
some volts are higher than what its suppose to be in the FSM
1M-.93V
1N-5.33V
1P-5.34V
1Q-5.35V
1T-5.35V
1U-8.36V
1V-.01V
1X-0
2B-8.19V
2C-0V BUT RESISTANCE 2.90
2D-4.14V
2E-8.63V
2F-7.89V
2G-5.20V
2H-8.20V
2I-6.14V
2J-6.14V
2L-8.16V
2R-0V RESISTANCE GOOD
3A-0V RESISTANCE GOOD
3B-1.63V
3C-11.55V
3D-1.62V
3E-11.45V
3F-11.45V
3G-0V RESISTANCE GOOD
3H-11.44V
3I-11.44V
3J- NEGATIVE 0.12V? HAHAHA I DONT KNOW
some volts are higher than what its suppose to be in the FSM
10-01-12, 12:32 PM
#33
Full Member
Thread Starter
i checked some of the pin at the ECU with the key position ON and this is what i found. FSM 4A CONTROL UNIT PAGE 4A-31
1M-.93V
1N-5.33V
1P-5.34V
1Q-5.35V
1T-5.35V
1U-8.36V
1V-.01V
1X-0
2B-8.19V
2C-0V BUT RESISTANCE 2.90
2D-4.14V
2E-8.63V
2F-7.89V
2G-5.20V
2H-8.20V
2I-6.14V
2J-6.14V
2L-8.16V
2R-0V RESISTANCE GOOD
3A-0V RESISTANCE GOOD
3B-1.63V
3C-11.55V
3D-1.62V
3E-11.45V
3F-11.45V
3G-0V RESISTANCE GOOD
3H-11.44V
3I-11.44V
3J- NEGATIVE 0.12V? HAHAHA I DONT KNOW
some volts are higher than what its suppose to be in the FSM
1M-.93V
1N-5.33V
1P-5.34V
1Q-5.35V
1T-5.35V
1U-8.36V
1V-.01V
1X-0
2B-8.19V
2C-0V BUT RESISTANCE 2.90
2D-4.14V
2E-8.63V
2F-7.89V
2G-5.20V
2H-8.20V
2I-6.14V
2J-6.14V
2L-8.16V
2R-0V RESISTANCE GOOD
3A-0V RESISTANCE GOOD
3B-1.63V
3C-11.55V
3D-1.62V
3E-11.45V
3F-11.45V
3G-0V RESISTANCE GOOD
3H-11.44V
3I-11.44V
3J- NEGATIVE 0.12V? HAHAHA I DONT KNOW
some volts are higher than what its suppose to be in the FSM
10-01-12, 12:51 PM
#34
if it now is starting and stalling then you may have created a vacuum leak during your tests. jumper the yellow fuel pump test connector and see if it starts and runs without stalling.
the AFM has an internal switch for the fuel pump, when the door closes enough it shuts the fuel pump off, vacuum leaks bypass the AFM so the door will not open as much as it should and in some cases close enough to shut the engine down and the AFM will test out ok.
if the engine runs with the jumper, keep it idling manually if necessary and use a can of carb cleaner to spray around the engine to check for vacuum leaks. the idle should stabilize or stumble when you come across an area with a leak.
the AFM has an internal switch for the fuel pump, when the door closes enough it shuts the fuel pump off, vacuum leaks bypass the AFM so the door will not open as much as it should and in some cases close enough to shut the engine down and the AFM will test out ok.
if the engine runs with the jumper, keep it idling manually if necessary and use a can of carb cleaner to spray around the engine to check for vacuum leaks. the idle should stabilize or stumble when you come across an area with a leak.
10-01-12, 12:56 PM
#35
Pin 2C grounds 7 sensors and you gave the voltage readings for 6 of these sensors and they are all wonky and exceed the proper values by a large degree.. You might want to disconnect the AFM and take another round of readings at the following pins. 2B, 2L, 2I, 2H, 2F, 2G. If you get the same readings then add an additional ground to 2C and ground it to one of the ECU mounting bolts.
10-01-12, 02:31 PM
#36
Sit and Spin
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To answer your other thread question (which is related to this thread)...
Voltage on 3J is supplied from the battery according to page 50-29 of the FSM (Which is easy to find on the FAQ in this section).
Hope this helps.
Voltage on 3J is supplied from the battery according to page 50-29 of the FSM (Which is easy to find on the FAQ in this section).
Hope this helps.
10-01-12, 02:52 PM
#37
Full Member
Thread Starter
if it now is starting and stalling then you may have created a vacuum leak during your tests. jumper the yellow fuel pump test connector and see if it starts and runs without stalling.
the AFM has an internal switch for the fuel pump, when the door closes enough it shuts the fuel pump off, vacuum leaks bypass the AFM so the door will not open as much as it should and in some cases close enough to shut the engine down and the AFM will test out ok.
if the engine runs with the jumper, keep it idling manually if necessary and use a can of carb cleaner to spray around the engine to check for vacuum leaks. the idle should stabilize or stumble when you come across an area with a leak.
the AFM has an internal switch for the fuel pump, when the door closes enough it shuts the fuel pump off, vacuum leaks bypass the AFM so the door will not open as much as it should and in some cases close enough to shut the engine down and the AFM will test out ok.
if the engine runs with the jumper, keep it idling manually if necessary and use a can of carb cleaner to spray around the engine to check for vacuum leaks. the idle should stabilize or stumble when you come across an area with a leak.
Pin 2C grounds 7 sensors and you gave the voltage readings for 6 of these sensors and they are all wonky and exceed the proper values by a large degree.. You might want to disconnect the AFM and take another round of readings at the following pins. 2B, 2L, 2I, 2H, 2F, 2G. If you get the same readings then add an additional ground to 2C and ground it to one of the ECU mounting bolts.
what should i look for since the car starts and holds idle? anything you want me to look at in particular? but i will add a extra ground to that pin tho
ooh and thanks again and sorry
10-01-12, 02:55 PM
#38
Full Member
Thread Starter
well i was reading the wiring diagram and i was following where it goes and it hits FEM-02 then splits off to 9 directions from what i can understand. i dont know what those 9 are. thank you
10-02-12, 12:12 PM
#39
Sit and Spin
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The "9" don't matter. Look for the bl/W wire on the FEM-02 plug. I believe it hooks up with a Bl/R wire. Check to see if you have voltage on either of these.
Are you sure you were able to get an accuracte reading off of 3J? If I remember correctly, the wire is slightly larger diameter and tough to get a DMM probe in with it.
Just a thought.
Good Luck!
Rob R.
Are you sure you were able to get an accuracte reading off of 3J? If I remember correctly, the wire is slightly larger diameter and tough to get a DMM probe in with it.
Just a thought.
Good Luck!
Rob R.
10-05-12, 05:31 PM
#41
Full Member
Thread Starter
if it now is starting and stalling then you may have created a vacuum leak during your tests. jumper the yellow fuel pump test connector and see if it starts and runs without stalling.
the AFM has an internal switch for the fuel pump, when the door closes enough it shuts the fuel pump off, vacuum leaks bypass the AFM so the door will not open as much as it should and in some cases close enough to shut the engine down and the AFM will test out ok.
if the engine runs with the jumper, keep it idling manually if necessary and use a can of carb cleaner to spray around the engine to check for vacuum leaks. the idle should stabilize or stumble when you come across an area with a leak.
the AFM has an internal switch for the fuel pump, when the door closes enough it shuts the fuel pump off, vacuum leaks bypass the AFM so the door will not open as much as it should and in some cases close enough to shut the engine down and the AFM will test out ok.
if the engine runs with the jumper, keep it idling manually if necessary and use a can of carb cleaner to spray around the engine to check for vacuum leaks. the idle should stabilize or stumble when you come across an area with a leak.
Pin 2C grounds 7 sensors and you gave the voltage readings for 6 of these sensors and they are all wonky and exceed the proper values by a large degree.. You might want to disconnect the AFM and take another round of readings at the following pins. 2B, 2L, 2I, 2H, 2F, 2G. If you get the same readings then add an additional ground to 2C and ground it to one of the ECU mounting bolts.
The "9" don't matter. Look for the bl/W wire on the FEM-02 plug. I believe it hooks up with a Bl/R wire. Check to see if you have voltage on either of these.
Are you sure you were able to get an accuracte reading off of 3J? If I remember correctly, the wire is slightly larger diameter and tough to get a DMM probe in with it.
Just a thought.
Good Luck!
Rob R.
Are you sure you were able to get an accuracte reading off of 3J? If I remember correctly, the wire is slightly larger diameter and tough to get a DMM probe in with it.
Just a thought.
Good Luck!
Rob R.
10-05-12, 07:11 PM
#42
talking head
post 10 told you it was the earth issue .. and you ignored it till it was rammed repeatedly...yet every single search on hestitation would have listed it as number 1 cause
... you have fixed it on top of the engine..
but you WILL find its not the full fix ..
as many people have found already,, the real issue lies in the conductivity through the brass crimp just up from the ECU plug that is where all those earths bundle for 2C
many people go through the earth adding to top of engine or to the pressure sensor ( as original early s4 engine looms lacked one )
and still find they are back resoldering the crimp and adding the new earth loop to the case
... you have fixed it on top of the engine..
but you WILL find its not the full fix ..
as many people have found already,, the real issue lies in the conductivity through the brass crimp just up from the ECU plug that is where all those earths bundle for 2C
many people go through the earth adding to top of engine or to the pressure sensor ( as original early s4 engine looms lacked one )
and still find they are back resoldering the crimp and adding the new earth loop to the case
10-06-12, 02:35 PM
#43
Full Member
Thread Starter
post 10 told you it was the earth issue .. and you ignored it till it was rammed repeatedly...yet every single search on hestitation would have listed it as number 1 cause
... you have fixed it on top of the engine..
but you WILL find its not the full fix ..
as many people have found already,, the real issue lies in the conductivity through the brass crimp just up from the ECU plug that is where all those earths bundle for 2C
many people go through the earth adding to top of engine or to the pressure sensor ( as original early s4 engine looms lacked one )
and still find they are back resoldering the crimp and adding the new earth loop to the case
... you have fixed it on top of the engine..
but you WILL find its not the full fix ..
as many people have found already,, the real issue lies in the conductivity through the brass crimp just up from the ECU plug that is where all those earths bundle for 2C
many people go through the earth adding to top of engine or to the pressure sensor ( as original early s4 engine looms lacked one )
and still find they are back resoldering the crimp and adding the new earth loop to the case
10-07-12, 10:26 PM
#44
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Had the same problem as you described. Pulled my hair out chasing it. Tried everything. Fixed it today and rotary eve mentioned it early in this thread. Check the secondary injector fuel injector clip. To test this I disconnected the fuel injector wire to the injector that closest to the firewall it ran poorly as you described. Resided a new clip and it now runs like a champ. I've been chasing this for 3 months!
10-07-12, 11:31 PM
#45
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alexdimen
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
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10-23-15 01:50 PM
