here is a pic (sorry so crapy) of my setup however me and my great vacuum skills can not find out the correct way to hook this stuff up. Please help! If anyone can just draw a red line to where each should be connected and where I would be greatly appreciative. Thank you!

 

get some vac line and 2 "T"s and connect the boost sensor, BOV, and boost gauge to the nipple under the boost gauge.

or run one to the nipple on the ACV if you still have it.

 

this is how I have it now. Notice the twin scroll how it is hooked up. It is only connected to the vacuum hose nothing else. Would the twin scroll still work this way? Thanks.

ps. anyways, should this way I have it setup work? Thanks.

 

I can't see your pics, but unless you have it connected exactly as per the schematic in the FSM (i.e. with the solenoid and check valve, both in the correct orientation), it's won't work.

 

hey nz there is no check valve so I guess it won't work. why it is still connected then I don't know. Do you have microsoft paint that comes with every version of windows? Thats what I created the picture in. Thanks!

 

oh yeah one more thing. How hard would it be to hook the stuff for the twin scroll back up? I mean I would have to buy the parts but I would like to get it working again. Unless just keeping it open will work as well but damn that is a lot of lag.

ps. whooooohooo just hit 1000 posts

 

hondahater: You might try when you save your pictures instead of choosing .bmp (sometimes refered to as Bitmap) change it to JPEG. This will greatly reduce the size as well as make it able to be quickly opened by people. It also won't lose enough quality to matter for these purposes.

Congrats on the 1k posts.

 

Correct. You need the solenoid valve too.

I don't want to get your hopes up, but connecting it like that may be the cause of your lack of boost. The engine vacuum will be sucking the flap closed as normal, but there's no solenoid to let it open, preventing boost from building. If you leave the actuator's vac line disconnected, the flap will be held open by the actuator's spring.
Very easy. If you don't have the parts you can scrounge them from a wrecker or substitute generic parts. Follow the schematic on page 4B-53 of the FSM, and make sure you plug the green plug into the solenoid valve.

BTW, why does your drawing show two BOV vac connections?

And yep, jpeg is much better than bmp.

 

I have the greddy bov that is purple. That bov for some reason has two vacume holes, I have no idea why. Anyone know? Oh also nz did you see a picture of my turbo? it looks like it is trying to be a hybrid turbo. I bought it off of thepartstrader.com about 4 years ago for about 450. Anyways he said it was upgraded and I was still kinda new to the rx7 so I took his word for it. He also wanted the core back when I got his turbo, so I'm guessing it was some guy out of his house upgrading these turbos. Anyways here is a pic, do you think you could take a look and see what it may be? Notice the 7 fins instead of 6 and the thinned inlet duct. Thanks.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...postid=2631896

ps. could the turbo just be not right. I mean the guy that made it may have just been ripping people off. I don't know.

 

The bottom hole is for the air to move in and out of the other side of the diaphragm. It's supposed to be left open.

You can't tell much from that photo. It could be a badly modified turbo, but you'd need to take it off and pull it apart to find that out.

 

hum......you say badly modified huh? Thats what I was thinking. I'm just going to buy another turbo and be done with it. thanks for the help on the bov part I had no idea. so then the vacume lines are not hooked up right? I need to change there configuration? Thanks.

 

^