Where does the clutch switch connect to ?
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Where does the clutch switch connect to ?
The title speaks for itself. I went from an auto to Manual conv. Now cant figure out where this connector plugs into. It's a 2 pin male white connector comming out of the little white box when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. Both wire colors are black/green.
#2
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There are two switches on a manual tranny 87+ FC.
Normally the green wires are for the Starter lock out switch on the clutch pedal. The plug at the end of the starter lock out switch wires are found above the kick panel fuse box.
Normally the green wires are for the Starter lock out switch on the clutch pedal. The plug at the end of the starter lock out switch wires are found above the kick panel fuse box.
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It aint there. And by the way my FC is an 89 GTU with a 90 jdm turbo eng 5sp conv. Maybe the wire colors are different. But from what I see in the wireing diagram. The clutch switch has 2 wires. A black for ground and a yellow/blue for signal. But my wire colors are different. Both are black/green. And I have no clue where that connector would go. I'm guessing I would have to change the ignition switch on my steering column. Bope ??? I desperately need someone who has done this conversion to take a look at my FC and tell what I would have to do. Anyone any suggestions. It's all that is left to be done and I can finally crank the engine for the first time.
#4
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Originally Posted by Romanator
It aint there. And by the way my FC is an 89 GTU with a 90 jdm turbo eng 5sp conv. Maybe the wire colors are different. But from what I see in the wireing diagram. The clutch switch has 2 wires. A black for ground and a yellow/blue for signal.
Remember I said two switches.
But my wire colors are different. Both are black/green. And I have no clue where that connector would go. I'm guessing I would have to change the ignition switch on my steering column. Bope ??? I desperately need someone who has done this conversion to take a look at my FC and tell what I would have to do. Anyone any suggestions. It's all that is left to be done and I can finally crank the engine for the first time.
With an automatic originally you will probably have to go to the shifter area to get the starter lock out wires. As I recall you could not start the car in gear with a auto tranny.
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Go to the online Series five wiring diagrams if you don't have one. Go to page A-1 called EC-AT (AUTO TRANS).
THEN go to the page A-2 for Manual Transmissions. Now compare the two.
The Inhibitor switch for auto has six wires. The Interlock switch for manual trans has two wires. The location for the two SEEMS to be in different locals. The auto....is it on the transmissiion????
It's too difficult to figure out without seeing the car because there is a X-08 and a X-09 plug that SEEM to be different on the two harness (manual/auto cars).
I know what I'd do if I wanted to start the car. I'd find the Starter Cut Relay located next to the MAIN RELAY. I'd pull its plug off and find the Black/Green wires socket. From there I'd probably cut that wire about two to three inches back from the plug, and attach a NEW wire. I'd run that NEW wire to the starter solenoid (about two feet away at most). and install it on the starters small blade connector. You'd be done. No interlock switch but frankley I've driven without one for years and have no problem with running myself over or whatever the reasoning was behind that interlock switch.
Write back if your car has no Starter Cut Relay. I think cars with theft protection have that relay. Non theft protected cars have no relay but have a BLUE jumper cap on the harness plug for the relay. That's how it is on series four.
THEN go to the page A-2 for Manual Transmissions. Now compare the two.
The Inhibitor switch for auto has six wires. The Interlock switch for manual trans has two wires. The location for the two SEEMS to be in different locals. The auto....is it on the transmissiion????
It's too difficult to figure out without seeing the car because there is a X-08 and a X-09 plug that SEEM to be different on the two harness (manual/auto cars).
I know what I'd do if I wanted to start the car. I'd find the Starter Cut Relay located next to the MAIN RELAY. I'd pull its plug off and find the Black/Green wires socket. From there I'd probably cut that wire about two to three inches back from the plug, and attach a NEW wire. I'd run that NEW wire to the starter solenoid (about two feet away at most). and install it on the starters small blade connector. You'd be done. No interlock switch but frankley I've driven without one for years and have no problem with running myself over or whatever the reasoning was behind that interlock switch.
Write back if your car has no Starter Cut Relay. I think cars with theft protection have that relay. Non theft protected cars have no relay but have a BLUE jumper cap on the harness plug for the relay. That's how it is on series four.
Last edited by HAILERS; 06-13-06 at 09:06 PM.
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I took HAILERS advice and it works. By-passing the interlock switch is smart in the way that I want my car to crank. YES! But now there's no safety feature. Now I can crank my car rather if the clutch pedal is pressed down or not. And also the fact that my ignition switch is f***ed that any key can turn the switch. So in other words... "Now my car cranks but does not start. "
I know it could be 1 out of 100 things as to why it dont start. But I have a healthy battery. I have spark. I have gas, i hear it pressurized and I smell it. I have air comming into the intake, I hear the MAF pumping.
I'm shure my injectors are shooting i can hear it. But I wanna be shure I'm gonna do an injector balance test today or tomorrow. Whenever I can get in contact with a buddy of mine.
Also I still did not get an answer about my clutch switch that's on the pedal. I know I have 2 boxes (switches) on the pedal. 1 When pedal is fully pressed and 1 when pedal is not pressed. From what I see, only 1 of my 2 boxes has wires comming out. And it's the one when the pedal is pressed down. Icemark says it's my overtop switch for ecu input and cruise control. So if it's realy that, then I guess that means I have no clutch switch right ???
Anyone any ideas or suggestions. I could desperately use someone's advice.
I know it could be 1 out of 100 things as to why it dont start. But I have a healthy battery. I have spark. I have gas, i hear it pressurized and I smell it. I have air comming into the intake, I hear the MAF pumping.
I'm shure my injectors are shooting i can hear it. But I wanna be shure I'm gonna do an injector balance test today or tomorrow. Whenever I can get in contact with a buddy of mine.
Also I still did not get an answer about my clutch switch that's on the pedal. I know I have 2 boxes (switches) on the pedal. 1 When pedal is fully pressed and 1 when pedal is not pressed. From what I see, only 1 of my 2 boxes has wires comming out. And it's the one when the pedal is pressed down. Icemark says it's my overtop switch for ecu input and cruise control. So if it's realy that, then I guess that means I have no clutch switch right ???
Anyone any ideas or suggestions. I could desperately use someone's advice.
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#8
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by Romanator
IAlso I still did not get an answer about my clutch switch that's on the pedal. I know I have 2 boxes (switches) on the pedal. 1 When pedal is fully pressed and 1 when pedal is not pressed. From what I see, only 1 of my 2 boxes has wires comming out. And it's the one when the pedal is pressed down. Icemark says it's my overtop switch for ecu input and cruise control. So if it's realy that, then I guess that means I have no clutch switch right ???
Anyone any ideas or suggestions. I could desperately use someone's advice.
Anyone any ideas or suggestions. I could desperately use someone's advice.
If you don't have two switches, then you don't have two switches. Pretty straight foward. Remember many 86 models did not have the starter lock out switch.
The start lock out switch (green thick wires) should not be confused with the neutral switch. The Start lock out switch only works if the clutch is pressed in all the way, while the neutral switch is activated when the clutch is pressed.
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I and several others can confirm the lack of a Interlock Switch on the clutch pedal on early cars. I even have a 87TII that does not have one but on the other hand I've a 87n/a (now turboii) that has one. Hit and miss or maybe there's a chassis number that the switch started being put on.