robfeltner

Hey, my 91 NA is flooded something bad. I pulled the injector fuse, nothing. Pulled plugs....but I don't know where to put the ATF fluid. I've never had a rotary flood like this before.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks,

Rob

FC3S_nataku

iTrader: (3)

leading plugs, i think its like 1 or 2 cap fulls and it should help

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

ATF for fixing a flooded motor?

what about just leaving it for day with the plugs out?

are you SURE its flooded? if you've pulled the injector fuse and cranked it over and its still "flooded" maybe your problem is something else....does it have spark? have you had any trouble in the past?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Motor oil and/or MMO will do the same thing.

psychotic7

install a switch to turn your fuel pump off....i had this prob with my 88 GXL a lot. i installed a fuel pump switch and when it flooded i just cut the fuel pump off and it cranked right up every time and then ya gotta quickly turn the fuel pump back on of course.

HAILERS

If you know your engine and vacuum/air hoses................Y0u could pull the hose for the oil injectors, from the intake metal nipple. Put a vacuum hose on the HOSE you just pulled off. You figure how to do that

. Now put that hose into a quart of lightweight motor oil. Spin the engine over and watch the oil be sucked up out of the quart into the hose that leads to the top of the four oil injectors.

Do NOT connect the quarto of oil to the metal nipple on the throttle body. Life does not work like that. Connect the quart to the HOSE that was on the nipple. I'd say suck in a couple of table spoons. Then put things back and start the engine. The oil is sucked in to replace all the oil washed off by the excess fuel and helps re-establish some compression so the thing will fire.

I don't know much about series five vacuum hose so we're counting on you to know which hose is for the oil pump injector nipples. It should be of a size LARGER than the normal vacuum hose. On a series four it's one of three metal nipples on the FRONT of the dynamic chamber. The middle nipple....which is larger than the other two.

NZConvertible

To unflood S5 engines:

1. Hold the throttle wide open (very important) and crank it over for at least 5 seconds but no more than 10 (or you could overheat and damage the starter motor).
2. Without touching the gas pedal try to start the engine.
3. If unsuccessful, repeat steps 1-2 allowing 15-20 seconds between cranking attempts to allow the starter motor to cool.
4. If still unsuccessful after a few attempts, remove the leading (lower) spark plugs and repeat steps 1 and 2.
5. Using a small oil can (by far the easiest method), squirt a small amount of engine oil into each plug hole.
6. Replace the spark plugs and repeat step 2.

All S5's (not S4's) have programming in the ECU that disables the injectors any time the throttle is fully open and the key is in the START position. This makes unflooding easier. It is totally unnecessary to pull any fuses, plugs or relays, or fit a fuel pump switch.

MARTIN

or, if you have a tII, take out the 4 bolts for the UIM and lift it a bit untill you can pour some in the runners..

NZConvertible

Way to make an easy job much harder...

Putting the oil directly into the chambers is much more effective than putting it in the intake system anyway.

MARTIN

How is it harder? ITs 5 bolts and you can just pour it str8 from the bottle, no need to become macgyver and come up with a contraption to pour it into the spark plug holes...

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

damn people... if the engine doesn't start by cutting the fuel system it probably will never start.


i say:


RIP IT OUT!

NZConvertible

First you say it's just four bolts, now it's five, and you're wrong both times. Lifting the UIM is more time and effort than removing two spark plugs, simple as that. It shouldn't be too hard to understand that.

Actually I use a $5 oil squirt can from an auto parts store.

brent clement

Never had one that wouldn't unflood by simply pouring two cap fulls of atf into one of the vacuum lines on the front of the plenum. Don't see how oil is any better. This has worked everytime for me. Unless you have a fresh rebuild this is a sign of a problem. Your inj. are probably leaking. Mazdatrix sells a kit to eliminate inj. leakage by dumping the pressure left in the line after you shut the car off. I like the kiss theory.

HAILERS

A vacuum line on the dynamic chamber is fine if you know which is vacuum and which is NOT vacuum. I've never seen a series five turbo engine myself.

On the first generation car, I just poured oil down the carb throat and had at it. I've never had to pour oil in a series four.

MARTIN

first of all its five bolts for the UIM. But yea, I forgot about the top mount, its been a while since I've dealt with that. Let me rephrase, if you dont have the topmount its alot easier to remove 5 bolts and pour into the runner... I just cant understand how you would think its better and faster to pour it into a hole that is less than .5" in dia.

brent clement

Well anyway you slice it, I'm sure he gets the idea.

NZConvertible

It's four nuts and one bolt on the UIM, plus another nut on the TB if you still have the TMIC support bracket, and you need to pull the oil filler tube to get a socket on that nut. If you have an S4 you also have to disconnect the OMP rod, which you can't get to without removing the TMIC. Plus if you still have vac lines attached to the UIM they won't have enough slack to lift the UIM high enough to pour oil into the runners without spilling it everywhere. So basically unless you have an S5 with stripped emissions and a FMIC, this is just a dumb idea. And even if you do, it's still dumb compared to just pulling two spark plugs.

What part of oil squirt can do you not get? Since the little nozzle is much smaller than the spark plug hole, you just poke it into each hole and press the lever once. Oil in the chambers, job done. And like I've already said, this much more effective than oil dribbling down inside the manifold. One squirt in each chamber (less than a teaspoon) is all that's needed.

Completely untrue. If the flooding is severe enough to wash most of the oil off the sealing surfaces, just clearing the excess fuel out is not enough. You need to reseal the chambers with a layer of oil to allow compression to build. That's what the oil does. I've only once had my engine flood so badly that I needed to do this, and after multiple failed attempts at pulling the fuse, etc, as soon as I put a small amount of oil in each chamber it fired up instantly.