smokimon001

planing to do a swap on my 88 10th ae before winter, anyone knows a good place/website to buy s5 turbo engine swap? i was going to purchase from tigerjapanese, but they have bad reviews.

Dak

From what I gather any J-spec rotary engine is a crapshoot these days. At least for an FC. They have been sitting in warehouses and junkyards for so long. Only good to use as a core. I don't know the best place to buy from currently. Maybe someone else can chime in.

DR_Knight

iTrader: (23)

Second this motion. No more japan2la but circuit theory may be able to help you out. Pretty cool guy who started bringing containers of Fc stuff here

Evil Aviator

Why do you want a S5 swap?

Tui

iTrader: (2)

Exactly. Stay in series to minimize the brain damage. At least for everything under the hood. Tranny back doesn't matter.

smokimon001

smoke coming out from turbo, and lost power after 4000 rmp, it idles fine and all. Ans it has apexi safc and some other electronic power controler installed from previous owner, i am not 100% sure how to adjust the settings, therefore i thought it would be easier just to get a full swap and bring it back to stock set up.
anyway i am going to swap a turbo from another engine to see if that solve the problem for now. cuz i have another turbo donor that has low compression engine in it.
thanks for your inputs

Evil Aviator

OK, so send it out for a rebuild. It only costs about $375.
BNR Supercars - Bryan Nickell's Rotary Supercars - Mazda RX-7 2nd Generation (1987-1991)

No, that would be a royal pain in the butt.

Dak

I'm with Evil Aviator. Rebuild your turbo. Then I would suggest get a wideband O2 sensor so you know what your fuel is doing, and learn how to adjust that SAFC. Seems the downfalls of the S4 stuff can be fixed for less than the cost( not counting the headache) of swapping to S5.

Evil Aviator

^ This.

If you look at the build levels on the below website, you can see that there is no significant performance difference between the S4 and S5 engine until you get into the mid 400hp range.
FC3S Pro v2.0: From Mild 2 Wild - Power

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

agree its better to sort out what you have it will be better than dealing with an unknown engine

smokimon001

Took the turbo out from my donor car today, there's no shaft play at all but there is layer of engine oil in the inlet and outlet housing, my friend(master mechanic work for septa) suggests just replacing the o-ring instead of sending it out for a full rebuild. I am under a budget, therefore I won't spend the $$$ unless I have to. What do u guys think?

smokimon001

Just found out the turbo from my running FC has excessive play, both in and out left and right. No oil found from inlet and outlet, I will post pics once it is out.

barkz

iTrader: (1)

wanna buy a stock s4 turbo with 80k miles and NO shaft play?

smokimon001

barkz, any sight of oil leak from anywhere? and how much?

GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

That's normal. I would check shaft play, check all the fins for damage, and no major cracks on housing. If everything checks out, get it rebuilt, balanced. I bought a BNR because now he has rebuilds where the only thing you need to give him is your exhaust housing

smokimon001

I have also heard oil in the inlet and outlet is normal, i checked the shaft and everything else, they seem to be ok and no shaft play at all.

and i pulled out another turbo last night, it is from my running FC, it has about 1/32" in and out play plus 1/64" left and right, no oil leak from the compressor side, and no sight of oil from inlet and outlet, but there's significant oil leak mark at the exhaust housing side, i am definitely having this one rebuild, i probably will have it disassembled and verified the parts i need before ordering the rebuild kit.

barkz

iTrader: (1)

No oil leaks. I have no idea about a retail price on it though. Any input?

smokimon001

i found two cracks near the entrance of my exhaust housing, does that mean the exhaust housing is done?

i believe is the oil leak that cause the crack.

smokimon001

Sent out to BNR for rebuild