Wheel hop on a launch, think I broke a rear diff mount
#1
Wheel hop on a launch, think I broke a rear diff mount
Symtoms: driving and let off throttle, tap it I can feel and hear a "Clunk".... from the rear. Not a clank, or clink, but a clunk. If I shift hard I can hear it. Sound right?
Are they a real PITA to change? Any tips? Suggestions? Where should I buy them?
Are they a real PITA to change? Any tips? Suggestions? Where should I buy them?
Last edited by The Wankler; 08-23-06 at 03:43 PM.
#4
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its not that hard i live in an apartment have a little *** garage the subframe can be removed with out removing the axles and diff it honestly took me about 1 hour to completly remove it you only need like a 9/16/ 11/16 and a 1/2 and a break bar not that bad at all
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#8
R.I.P. Icemark
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Originally Posted by wildfc3s
its not that hard i live in an apartment have a little *** garage the subframe can be removed with out removing the axles and diff it honestly took me about 1 hour to completly remove it you only need like a 9/16/ 11/16 and a 1/2 and a break bar not that bad at all
#9
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just get under the car you need to drop the exhaust, control arms the the lateral links then the two big bolts on the subframe just get under there and look its not that bad
#10
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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Originally Posted by wildfc3s
its not that hard i live in an apartment have a little *** garage the subframe can be removed with out removing the axles and diff it honestly took me about 1 hour to completly remove it you only need like a 9/16/ 11/16 and a 1/2 and a break bar not that bad at all
#12
I break Diff mounts
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If it's not sounding like a baseball bat hitting your under carriage then there is probably a shred of rubber still holding on.
Get the Mazdatrix comp mount. Much harder to tear that one.
Then get a rear strut tower bar and good struts and springs to prevent another break.
A pinion snubber would be the ultimate answer though.
Get the Mazdatrix comp mount. Much harder to tear that one.
Then get a rear strut tower bar and good struts and springs to prevent another break.
A pinion snubber would be the ultimate answer though.
#14
Originally Posted by Digi7ech
If it's not sounding like a baseball bat hitting your under carriage then there is probably a shred of rubber still holding on.
Get the Mazdatrix comp mount. Much harder to tear that one.
Then get a rear strut tower bar and good struts and springs to prevent another break.
A pinion snubber would be the ultimate answer though.
Get the Mazdatrix comp mount. Much harder to tear that one.
Then get a rear strut tower bar and good struts and springs to prevent another break.
A pinion snubber would be the ultimate answer though.
I have good struts and springs. My *** is so stiff I can not tell I have a split rear end. Are the comp mounts any harder on the ride?
#19
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damn it my 88t2 just started doing that today. everytime I let off the throttle I get a thump. I'm not sure what it is at the time, but I'm just wondering if I could use rear end parts of a not-turbo model since there's a couple here at the pick n pull?
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+1 on the pinion snubber.
But wheel hop for me has always been b/c of dying shocks. I don't think it has anything to do with the state of the diff mount.
Just an extra thought.
But wheel hop for me has always been b/c of dying shocks. I don't think it has anything to do with the state of the diff mount.
Just an extra thought.
#23
Shiiit. My car was fine untill I put on the Mazdatrix rear camber adjuster a few weeks back. Now it thumps every time I give it a bit of gas or decell. I think I broke the rear diff mount putting in the camber adjuster
Maybe it's just the bar itself. It has no rubber bushing like the stock bar did, it's solid so I hear everything?
Maybe it's just the bar itself. It has no rubber bushing like the stock bar did, it's solid so I hear everything?
Last edited by Sgt. Pepper; 09-04-06 at 09:44 PM.
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