??

 

It's a green plug near the driver headlight and leading coil pack that has two wires. You jumper these terminals to put the computer in "Initial set" mode so you can set timing, idle speed, etc once the car is warmed up.

Vince

 

bingo... if you try to do any of that withought jumping the initial set coupler the computer will not read your changes and will not run right. also if you need to prime the fuel system to get air out you can jump the initial set coupler, put hte key in the "on" pisition and the fuel pump will run (s4's only)

 

This isnt correct.. In order to prime the system you have to use the fuel pump test connector. Its yellow and resides by the pass strut tower.

Rat

 

could this be the reason why my timing hasn't been advancing. i changed the BAC, CAS, ECU, and the engine wiring harness. i changed the TPS and adjusted it to specs. There are no error codes but but my timing will not advance. it actually retards. the timing is set to 5* ATDC, lead. btw, i have a 89 gtu n/a.

 

How are you proving this? And no, that check connector being grounded wont lock timing, it only keeps the BAC at a constant cycle so you can adjust your idle.

 

Idle the car with a timing light on the pulley. Slowly rev the engine over 1000-1100 rpm. The timing light should show that the timing advanced quite a bit when over 1100 rpm. No need to rev over 1100-1200rpm to see this. Actually the figure is somewhere b/t 1000-1100rpm but I forget the exact figure.

 

i have tried that and the timing retards. I know this because standing in front of the car the lead mark on the pulley is going to the right as it revs. As you all kno of course it should be going to the left. what's wrong with my car???

 

Got me.

Engine fully hot when you do that?

 

yeah, i made sure it was completely wwarm idle before i made any adjustments.